Microscope for imperial 0201 RC and 0.5mm leadless chip

[Wilson__]

Please advise on microscope for solder/de-solder of very small imperial 0201 (0.6 x 0.3mm) RC and 0.5mm pitch leadless chip (contact at bottom, only one row of contact along edge of chip, not BGA which has multiple rows)?   NOT used for production that run daily for many hours and repeat everyday.

1. Which TYPE? 
a) Stand with Camera-only with HDMI output to a normal 24 inches computer screen,
b) Stand with Camera with build-in LCD screen of around 7 inches
c) Traditional optical Binocular Stereo Microscope.  Is stereo important or big LCD screen easier?

2. What magnification?  Zoom or fixed magnification (with two or three changable lens to change magnification)

3. Ring light or groose neck light?

Many thanks

[Doctorandus_P]

I bought an optical stereo microscope. Soldering with them is comfortable. It has both an 1x "lens" and a 0.5 barlow lens. Magnification with the 1x lens is a bit giggish, but it has zoom, so no biggie. Work distance with the 1x lens is a bit short, so I usually use the 0.5x barlow lens, which still gives plenty of magnification for soldering, but the work distance is a bit highish. I have to sit a bit uncomfortably straight in my chair or my eyes don't meet the eye pieces. A 0.7x barlow lens would be perfect (These cost around EUR35).

For the light, get both. The ring light is great for shadow free lighting, but it also obscures some things. For looking at tin whiskers for example, reflection from just the right angle is mandatory see them at all. gooseneck lights do not have to be expensive. You can get gooseneck USB lights starting from around EUR1, but they will need some power supply too.

For the ring light, do not buy the cheapest. The better quality ring lights have a glass disk that protect the barlow lens. You will have to remove this lens / light every now and then because it gets dirty from solder splatter and fumes.

Also, when you have light (and a power cord) on your microscope, you can also add a fan to either such up and filter fumes, or even simply blow the fumes away and disperse them, so they are not in front of your nose. Especially if combined with some general room ventilation, this is adequate for hobby level soldering (but not for 40 hour work days).

The "digital" microscopes are great for inspection, and some people can even solder under it. But because there is no depth perception with such an microscope, many people have trouble with soldering with it. Some get used to this, others don't.

[Howardlong]

For anything more than occasional soldering, I recommend a stereo microscope with zoom.

Simul-focal trinocular allows you to have stereo vision while simultaneously using the camera port.

If you don't need to take video while you work, you don't need simul-focal.

I use a pair of gooseneck LED lights. The problem with a ring light is that it gets in the way of the hot air iron.

I have a reasonably good digital microscope too, with minimal latency, but I only use it for taking pictures and probing boards, not soldering.

See my post here https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/help-microscope-buy-advice-needed/msg1331528/#msg1331528

[Sensorcat]

The type shown in your 'Mono-LCD' image has the disadvantage that the display is very close to your eyes when you are in a comfortable position for the work area. How much that matters of course depends on your eyes (age!) and the glasses you wear. A monitor that can be freely moved relative to the working area (not necessarily 24") is certainly much better.

I would like to add that this does not mean that I recommend using a display, my recommendation is not to use the fixed monitor. I use a stereo microscope myself.

[bson]

A stereo microscope with 5X magnification (which equates to standard 10X eyepieces and a 0.5X barlow) is perfectly fine for 0.5mm pitch QFN.  It's fine for 0201 as well (I use mine for 0402 all the time) although if you use it for 0201 a lot you might want just ever slightly higher magnification to critically inspect solder joints.  A simple LED ring light is fine for such low magnifications; in the rare cases I want slightly more light I'll just use an LED flashlight I keep on the bench, but that's more to look at the backs of 0.5/0.65 pitch pins to look for solder bridges.

The main problem with 0201 isn't the size per se, it's that they're so small they statically cling to tweezers and everything else.  I find 0402 a convenient size - passives costs fractions of a cent and you get very used to working under a microscope.  I even use the microscope to inspect THT solder joints!

[mikeselectricstuff]

Vision Mantis, x6 lens. Expensive but you can work with it comfortably all day long.

[Solder_Junkie]

I agree with the previous posts. Note the stereo microscope you show does not have a long enough "reach" for working on print boards, the optics are too close to the vertical mounting post. You also need a height adjustable chair and a relatively low bench when using an optical microscope for PCB work, otherwise you will struggle to look through the eyepieces...

I have not used a ring light, but my low cost Swift microscope has 2 x goose neck LED lights fitted as standard that can be adjusted to  give really good illumination for soldering/inspecting.

SJ

[bson]

Yeah, absolutely get one on a boom stand so you can get it out over the work area.  This is the one I have:
https://amscope.com/collections/stereo-microscopes-boom-stands/products/sw-3b13-frl

(With a 0.5X barlow)

As used:

[jfiresto]

... Simul-focal trinocular allows you to have stereo vision while simultaneously using the camera port.

If you don't need to take video while you work, you don't need simul-focal....

I think Amscope (who coined the term?) uses simul-focal to mean something else. From the SM-5 Series User's Manual, p. 12:

If using a simul-focal microscope head (one with a focusing adjustment on the third port), then you can use the middle portion to focus the camera. This allows the camera to be in focus even if the magnifications between the eyepieces and the camera are different. The SM-5T models do not come standard with a simul-focal feature, but the SM-5TP models do.

From the SM-4 Series Operator's Manual, p. 33:

Simul-Focal heads mitigate the amount of re-focusing needed when you change your view from the eyepieces to the monitor. Perfect for lectures, teaching demonstrations, clinical examinations and laboratory applications.

Simul-Focal as used in the Amscope manuals, (all the views are parfocal), is always good to have. Whether the camera should steal 100, 80 or 50% of the light from one eyepiece is a matter of taste and purpose. There are some who prefer 50% for photos and 100% for video, and vice-versa. Some who are projecting what they see through the eyepieces like 80% to a video camera and 20% to the eyepieces, so that all see a similarly bright image.

EDIT: +1 on getting a boom stand – although it I were to do everything over again and had the space, I would be mighty tempted to get a used, surgical microscope stand.

[Howardlong]

... Simul-focal trinocular allows you to have stereo vision while simultaneously using the camera port.

If you don't need to take video while you work, you don't need simul-focal....

I think Amscope (who coined the term?) uses simul-focal to mean something else. From the SM-5 Series User's Manual, p. 12:

So this is what I know.

Originally I inadvertently purchased the SM5 trinocular first, without realising you couldn't use all three ports at the same time: there's a mechanical lever to switch between the left eyepiece and the camera port.

Then when I read up about it at the time, I realised I needed the simal focal if I was to have all three ports running the same time.

So I replaced the SM-5 head with the SM745TP head, and all was fine & dandy.

[jfiresto]

From its manual:

The AmScope SM-5T model is uniquely designed so that you can view the image through the eyepieces and the trinocular port without removing the camera or using your eyepiece.

This feature allows the images through the microscope’s eyepieces, and those displayed on your computer screen or television be viewed at the same time (although unless using 20x eyepieces to match your camera, the image may differ in magnification). You do not need an adapter to attach your AmScope camera to the trinocular port, however you may need one if you have a non-AmScope camera. Our photo port is a 23mm size.

But then it goes on:

You can alternate the binocular observation and video capture by pushing or pulling the selection pole.
Push the pole in completely: • Binocular observation
Pull the pole out completely: • Open the shutter on the trinocular port to get video capture.

So what is true: the first part, the second part or both? If you believe everything that is written, an SM-5T can provide images to both eyepieces and the camera port, simultaneously – or with a push of the pole, (brighter) images to just the eyepieces.

Simul-focal does not enter into it and is another matter.

From your experience, the manual does not describe its microscopes. It would have been helpful if the advertising had briefly stated how the light is split between the camera and the eyepiece: 100:0, 50:50 or whatever!

[Wilson__]

Many thanks.  What is the PCB holder?  Is that for holding two side populated board so that it is nice, firm and horizontal? How it works?  What brand/model. 

Is there a low-height and heat resistant version to support a two side populated board over pre-heating hot plate (which seems 150 celcius from reading)?

[unseenninja]

My two cents as someone who has had a stereo zoom microscope for the last five years or so...

A proper stereo zoom microscope is essential for fine assembly work. Not having any depth perception when working with a soldering iron under a microscope means burned fingers and failed soldering. Having zoom makes it simple to switch between "big picture" and "details". Unless you need to make video or take pictures on a regular basis with the microscope, skip the triaxial versions. Less moving and optical parts makes for a brighter and more reliable microscope. If you really need to take photos, removing an eyepiece and using adapters is good enough.

Be cautious when buying lighting sources. If the light source emits any UV, it is going to be focussed on your retina. Saving money on lighting is a a poor trade for your eyesight. If you really want to save money on lighting, borrow or buy a spectrophotometer so that you can prove there are no harmful emissions from any of your light sources. As others have said, you can get by with just a ring light, but some additional goose neck lights can be very useful to fight reflections.

A multi-jointed arm for the microscope lets you move it out of the way, off of your bench, when you are not using it. I have an arm which clamps to the end of my bench and when I'm not using my microscope it takes zero space from my bench. If I tried to fit the large, heavy foot of any common boom or post type of stand on my bench, I would no longer be able to get 19" wide test equipment on it.

A dust cover for your microscope should not be considered optional, if you want the microscope to last.

Finally, if you are going to be soldering under the microscope, clean the Barlow lens often, or even better, get a screw in glass filter to protect it and clean that instead.

[Howardlong]

From its manual:

The AmScope SM-5T model is uniquely designed so that you can view the image through the eyepieces and the trinocular port without removing the camera or using your eyepiece.

This feature allows the images through the microscope’s eyepieces, and those displayed on your computer screen or television be viewed at the same time (although unless using 20x eyepieces to match your camera, the image may differ in magnification). You do not need an adapter to attach your AmScope camera to the trinocular port, however you may need one if you have a non-AmScope camera. Our photo port is a 23mm size.

But then it goes on:

You can alternate the binocular observation and video capture by pushing or pulling the selection pole.
Push the pole in completely: • Binocular observation
Pull the pole out completely: • Open the shutter on the trinocular port to get video capture.

So what is true: the first part, the second part or both? If you believe everything that is written, an SM-5T can provide images to both eyepieces and the camera port, simultaneously – or with a push of the pole, (brighter) images to just the eyepieces.

Simul-focal does not enter into it and is another matter.

From your experience, the manual does not describe its microscopes. It would have been helpful if the advertising had briefly stated how the light is split between the camera and the eyepiece: 100:0, 50:50 or whatever!

https://storage.googleapis.com/software-download-d79bb.appspot.com/Manual%20Download%20Files/Manual%20Files/Stereo/SM-5-Series-Manual-Complete.pdf

If it has the "Selection pole" om the left side (fig 7 on page 12), then it is as I describe. You either have both eyepieces but no camera, or the right eyepiece only and the camera. But never all at the same time.

Now you know how I bought the wrong head at first!

[thm_w]

Correct forum should be here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/microscope-amscope-for-soldering/

Finally, if you are going to be soldering under the microscope, clean the Barlow lens often, or even better, get a screw in glass filter to protect it and clean that instead.

Agree, though if you have a fume extractor you should very rarely ever need to clean the lens.