I see no real problems. Just be sure you checked the pins twice. BTW I never use an extra FET to pull the 1.5k resistor up. I connect it to a microcontroller pin directly.
The datasheet says that if the MCU is not USB powered, the transistor is required. I plan to experiment with it more. Also considering having connecting the resistor to a PIO output that have the inverted state of the CONNECT output (e.g. a periodic IRQ that reads the CONNECT pin and writes the not/state to the new pin). This may save a transistor and a few resistors.
1) are you sure 100nF decoupling is enough on the Vcc pins of the micro?
I mean even an 8 bit STM8s wants 2u locally on its powersupply pins. In my limited experience, too low local decoupling of a microcontroller can cause stability issues when using it's GPIO's to source current (sinking is usually ok).
I am not sure. Where can I find information? I saw the same combination of 0.01 and 0.1 caps in a Embedded Artists board. Also, should I look for a specific kind of capacitors? (I plan to have 0402 size).
2) the reset circuit of a micro usually has some delay in the form of a RC , maybe i missed it but i can see only the pullup resistor?
The pullup resistor is on the upper right corner. Do I need it? The datasheet says that reset can be left unconnected in some conditions.
I saw an example of an Embeded Artists board where they had a MIC6315 between the button and the LPC11U35. Not sure why they need it, maybe debouncing the reset button? I went with a minimal approach I also used with atmega328p.
Being a fan of minimum configurations I think the FET, reset PU, and additional bypass caps are not required. Playing around with no bypass on LPC812 tells me the internal regulator and silicon bypass are doing a good job but probably foolish to not use at least one 100nf. I have to laugh at some of the complicated and unnecessary reset circuits people attach to modern chips like PIC/AVR. Most of this comes from 1980s mindset when internal reset timers were rare. Of course the other side is it's easy to leave off components that are not required but harder to install them if there's no pads.
My goal is to have minimal but realistic design that I can use for real applications. Not a theoretical minimal in lab conditions.
The FET *may* be required if the board is powered by external power, not sure. If it's powered from USB then it connects upon reset and everything is fine. If it's already running by external power, I guess it's need to connect as soon as it detects VBUS. Also, if you use the reset pin, I think it will not reconnect if the resistor is permanently connected. I need to experiment with it more.
From noise immunity lab testing it also seems tying reset high can be a big mistake. Much worse than leaving it open.
Can you explain? Is it sufficient, for real world designs, to just have the reset button without the pull-up resistor?