Circuit for stable 7V to 10V conversion? That all depends on your final application. The first question to ask: Do you really need 10V? Why? How quiet does that Vref need to be? If you're trying for <5ppm / yr drift, do you even have a way to measure for that accurately? If you do, that would mean you already have multiple calibrated references on hand.
7V to 10V accurate conversion is not a trivial problem, and is harder than building the LTZ circuit - for instance:
A 732a/b comes to mind as a good design example...
depending on how much drift and how often you need to adjust. That's basically what you're talking about, at an extreme level. If you need a very stable 10V, just buy a 732'.... You won't make anything near as good as that for the price (used or new), especially if your time is worth anything. Depending on the definition of "good" of course.
A PWW pot with PWW resistors will make an acceptable, economical boost unit for an LTZ. Talk to Edwin, and he'll make you a set of ratio resistors. Use a quality Bourns PWW pot for adjustment. How well you build it from there is up to you, and that could take an infinite number of forms - depending on what you need.
It also depends on what load you're driving - how many mA, op-amp selection, output sourcing + sinking requirements, current limiting, hysterisis, temp. span power cycling, vibration, thermal flow, etc etc. etc. The design parameters list is very, very long and is impossible to answer here.
You also have to decide: If you're driving an ADC Vref input, pay attention to the drive current required. That's a gotcha on newer fast ADC's.
I wouldn't worry about ovenizing if this your first project. Build your device to not need an oven first, and see if you really need one. Add the oven later and see where it degrades performance. If you don't have a way to really measure down to low PPM accurately, you won't even see if the oven is doing anything for you.
Those PWW wrapped around an amp will get you started on a simple 10V boost circuit. It won't be 732a/b level, but maybe you don't need that?
If it were me, I'd attenuate the LTZ output down to 5V or 2.5V...much more useful for ADC / DAC work, and you're not gaining up the noise. For an accurate, stable, very low drift 10V do it right and get some working 731's or 732's first... otherwise you won't have a good way to verify a DIY circuit.
EDIT: Somewhere here Dr. Frank has has a published design for his 7V to 10V Vboost circuit. I don't have time right now to look up the link but that will get you started. Also: If you're going to all the work to make a 10V converter, just have Edwin make you an LTZ resistor set - further reducing the need for a noisy, complex oven system. That will make for a quieter LTZ circuit.