Well, since the R100G appears to be fubar anyhow, I had no reservations to experiment on it. Lacking a proper oven, I used my gas driven heat gun (actually more like a mini-torch) in an attempt to not only heat (and drive out humidity), but then also seal the apparently broken glass. I managed to get the glass to yellow glow (the wire was then red glowing too) and it deformed a bit. The surface looks now more smooth, so it did at least partially melt. It is however also now silvery, instead of milky, which I take as some metal deposits from the inside. Uh, oh, what did I breathe there? I'm old, so it won't matter, but kids: don't do that at home!
Perhaps surprisingly, it still works and the resistance went up a bit, see attached.
I don't have a nice high voltage source, just a (dangerously) cheap DC converter from eBay. I don't want to run that when I'm not present (although I don't want to be too close, when it is running ;-} hence only a few data points and no error bars this time. I used auto-range again, hence the bent graph (there's a jump in the curent reading when the instruments switches from 200pA to 2nA and less pronounced so when switching to 20nA). Despite that, there is a clear voltage dependency visible (which was the topic of this thread after all
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