Calibration label removal

[Patest]

I did a search and did not find anything about safely removing calibration labels. So here is my input on the subject.
Removal of old calibration labels can be a challenge. The object is to remove the label without damaging the equipment and keeping your blood inside of your fingers and not spilling out all over the place.
I have used wood and plastic scrapers with marginal success, but I find that the dull, flat blade exacto does the best job, care must be exorcised to prevent equipment face damage.
First, I prep the label by removing the clear covering and then applying WD-40
Do not use the commercial label remover or isopropyl alcohol because they can sometimes damage the equipment if it has a plastic case, or in the case of vintage GR units, alcohol will dissolve the paint.
When the label has soaked sufficiently (the time required varies) you can then gently use your selected scraper or whatever tool you are comfortable with and remove the label, then clean.
The only sticky stuff I have had serious difficulty with has been old old masking tape, I hate that stuff 
I hope someone finds this post useful.

[mendip_discovery]

Our lab uses labels that are fairly good at being easy to remove. I dislike the labs that use paper labels as they are always a nightmare to clean up.

I tend to use my thumbnail as I leave some nail for this specific role. Then with some dissolve-it cleaner (citrus based cleaner) which is good at taking most muck off. It does like to remove some painted on graphics on fluke meters so I dont use it there. I usually finish off with some iso to clean it all up.

[EC8010]

Lollypop sticks. Your thumb hurts after cleaning off lots of PAT, calibration, and inventory labels. Also, you get brownie points for giving your other half an excuse for buying ice lollies ,"I'm only having a lolly because he needs the sticks."

[jpanhalt]

When the item can stand heat, a hot air gun is my goto for removing any label.  It will also allow removing years old, dried masking tape in only a few pieces.  I avoid scrapers, except maybe my fingernail or a plastic razor blade. 

The latter is becoming more common.  It used to be a specialty item in boat stores to allow scraping fiberglass gel coats without scratches.

Once the label is off, then comes the goo.  To much heat leaves more goo.  For goo, one can often remove it with another piece of tape.  Masking tape works well.  Others do too.

For solvents, butter is probably the mildest.  It has surfactants that WD-40 doesn't.  My next strongest solvent is VM&P Naphtha (mostly low boiling hydrocarbons).  I will often add about 10% toluene or xylene to up its potency.  After that, I would (past tense) usually go to MEK.  MEK is an aggressive solvent and is not suitable for anything with paint or plastics.  Be aware that there are some adhesives that are virtually immune to the above, but readily removed with alcohols.  An example is one of the Form-A-Gasket products, which is designed to be insoluble in petroleum solvent.

More recently, I have moved from a series of MEK to cellosolves.  Butyl cellosolve + a little "saponifier" (e.g., ethanolamine) + water works wonders.  Without water, that combo is quite aggressive and attacks enamel paint.  With water (70% to 90% or more water) it is a great cleaner and doesn't attack cured enamel.  Many versions of that mixture are available in household products and usually have added surfactants, which helps.

[ch_scr]

I fully agree on the heat and plastic razor blades.
For goo removal, if the item can take contact with IPA, the removal process is much improved by wiping light oil on the goo first and then start rubbing with an IPA soaked towel.

[tridac]

As one who buys a lot of old test gear to play with and restore, have found the best way is to use a heat gun, carefully, to soften the adhesive and the label just peels straight off in most cases. Even those designed to be tamperproof. Then use ipa to clean off any residual adhesive. Doesn't always work 100% for very old labels, but ipa repeatedly brushed on to the label surface, seeps through and can soften the adhesive enough to allow removal. A thumbnail (seriously) can help as well, and won't damage the panel surface either. Old labels on kit are bain of life here, but removal is always the first thing to do before attempting internal cleaning and repair...

[jonpaul]

Heat, wood stick, IPA

Very old adhesive can use "goo Gone" a powerful petroleum distillate BUT test first as it MAY damage plastic, legends, etc.

Use outdoors or well ventilated area

Jon

[Conrad Hoffman]

I restore GR gear and almost anything will damage the paint. Sometimes it's best to just leave stickers alone on classic gear. WD-40 is good and I've never seen it do damage. Naphtha is also good if you're quick. Any other solvents will damage the paint, as will ammonia cleaners. As above, heat can help. Also, watch out for printing. I've seen solvents do nothing to paint, only to have them completely remove silk-screened lettering! That's a problem with the later smooth light grey units. I usually finish the unit with ArmorAll, but you have to be careful to fully buff it out before it dries or it can leave streaks.

[David Hess]

I get the best fast results with a heat gun, and it does not take much heating at all.  Goo Gone or naphtha work well if you have time, and are almost always plastic and paint safe.  I almost never get good results with only a scraper.

[Uky]

In my country there are several products available under trade names like "LabelOff".
These chemicals are derived from orange/lemons "citrin" acid, organic molecules.

If alcohol or petroleum based products does not work, citrin usually succeeds and
a nice detail is the fresh aroma of citrus that is spread in the lab during the process.

 

[alligatorblues]

Fuel-injector cleaner (Goof Off) will remove water-based paint, and any type of dirt or residue. And it has no residue.

[Macbeth]

The absolute best degreaser ever is using the paraffin gun that you get with that cheap China compressor. Fill it with diesel or waste diesel and petrol mix because who on earth can buy actual paraffin nowadays?. It is like a total sandblaster. Your yard will smell like a machine shop. It gets the job done good, dirt cheap and quick.
Your label will be removed swiftly