toner transfer paper jams printer

[teus]

The only laserprinter I can access right now doesn't pick up toner transfer paper, and calls out a jam. I've noticed how some printers don't feed such glossy paper very well or start crumpling it, but this printer doesn't even get it past the first set of rollers. Is there any way to deal with this?

The printer is only one year old, some lowend Kyocera Ecosys model (M2135dn ?) so it can't be related to wear or dirt. Maybe static electricity or humidity have to do something with it. Typically the office is at 21.5C 20% RH, but sometimes surges to >75% RH when it's been raining.  Maybe it's because the paper is fed printed side up, instead of printed side down.

[Algoma]

Its often a combination of all the above. crumpling at the pickup would indicate perhaps a skewed pickup where the paper isn't feeding stright into the next set of rollers.

The Kyocera seems to use a 3 roller pickup system similar to the HP models I'm more familar with. Often you can interchange rollers from another tray to see if pickup improves. Look for a worn surface on the roller missing its rough texture. Too smooth and it will slip on the paper. Too Dry humidity and it will also slip. Ozone from the high voltage transfer systems can also collect inside the pritner, if the exhaust cooling fan is blocked, and start to harden the rubber.

Swap the rollers with another tray or order replacement pickup roller sets, They're often quite easy to replace.  Check the guides in the paper tray are firmly against the edges of the paper, too much of a gap will allow the paper not to feed straight enough and it will jam.. if previous crumpled paper was forcefully removed by a previous user it could leave behind a torn scrap.

Another issue I've encoutnered was the printer was used with cheap mailing label sheets. causing glue to collect on the various guide surfaces.. Narrow fins with black gunk stuck to the edge surface that contacts the paper.

[pqass]

FYI, my method uses regular paper stock and Dollar store peel-and-stick white glossy cupboard paper.

a. Mark the bottom right position of the top sheet on the tray. 
b. Print the design. 
c. Cut out a square slightly larger than the printed design from the glossy cupboard paper, peel and cover the printed design.
d. Reprint it with the paper in the same orientation as the first print.

I use a Brother DCP7065DN printer with OEM toner and never had an issue with page crumpling or failure to feed.
I've managed to successfully etch designs with 0.3mm traces on 0.65mm pitch parts.

[tooki]

Based on the various Kyocera printers at work, don’t even bother. They’re just not sharp enough for PCB making. (Brother is also useless: sharp, but their toner just does not transfer.)

[pqass]

Brother is also useless: sharp, but their toner just does not transfer.

After applying heat I run the board over cold tap water as I slowly peel back the paper. 
99% of the toner is deposited except for a few specks that I can touch-up with a fine Sharpie.
See attached for the results.

[tooki]

Thanks for the tip! Cold water just for cooling? Or are you using the water-soluble type of transfer paper?

I could retest the one Brother at work next week.

[Whales]

I have not seen this problem with toner transfer paper, albeit my last Kyocera laser was probably 10 years ago.

I have seen this problem with normal paper in lasers.  Causes:

* Internal rollers not clean (look beyond the first stage)
* Rear door not closed properly or warped.

Does changing the print settings to "thin paper" have any effect?  Sometimes it affects linear speed (I think it also affects fuser temp?)

[pqass]

Thanks for the tip! Cold water just for cooling? Or are you using the water-soluble type of transfer paper?

I could retest the one Brother at work next week.

Yeah, I intentionally let a low velocity stream of cold water bathe the seam between the paper and the board as I pull them apart.  I guess this cools down the ink, releasing it from the paper.

BTW, I'm using a low-tech glossy cupboard liner paper ("RenGa-FIX"); not some fancy transfer paper made for the purpose.  https://www.dollarama.com/en-CA/p-adhesive-shelf-and-drawer-liner/0302693

I've been meaning to also be more scientific about it; ie. measuring and timing the amount of heat.  But I've recently come across this IPA-acetone heat-less (cold) transfer method and will try that next time.   https://www.instructables.com/Heatless-cold-Toner-Transfer-for-PCB-Making/

[igor78]

I'm using Brother printer, laminator and this toner transfer paper
https://www.amazon.com/PCB-Fab-Toner-Transfer-Paper/dp/B00BJM4UFE/
Brother toner glass point is ~190-200C. If it does not transfer - crank up the temp in your laminator