OK to use superglue on PCB?

[monore]

Hello,

I am working on a project that uses a Raspberry Pi camera module.



You can't see from the attached picture but the camera housing is glued to the PCB using some kind of double sided tape (the camera modules I have seen use a round 5mm dimeter tape about 1mm thick). The problem is that I need the camera housing to be perfectly perpendicular to the PCB but when using the double sided tape the camera does not sit perfectly perpendicular to the PCB, it always ends up a little lopsided... enough to be a problem for the particular project I am working on.

So what I am doing is taking the double sided tape off and using superglue to glue the camera housing directly to the PCB.



So far, looks like the solution works just fine, but I worry about what may happen 6 months or a year from now? Will the glue come apart because the PCB has a reaction to be PCB overtime?

Thought?

Thanks.

[Coordonnée_chromatique]

Hello, is the camera module perfectly air tight?
The glue vapors can enter in the lens cavity and polymerize with the water contained inside.

[monore]

Hello, is the camera module perfectly air tight?
The glue vapors can enter in the lens cavity and polymerize with the water contained inside.

To be honest, I don't know for sure. But the bottom of the camera housing (where I apply the super glue) is full solid plastic (or at least it appears to be) so I doubt that any vapors are entering the camera (at least on that direction).

[bill_c]

Hello, is the camera module perfectly air tight?
The glue vapors can enter in the lens cavity and polymerize with the water contained inside.

And the outside too.. this will leave a white residue which may damage the lens and or camera and it may coat the exposed copper on ribbon cable. 
You also need to test the bond to both surfaces after proper surface prep. If the glue has sufficient bond strength and the parts are not subject to thermal cycling, then it may be fine.

[jpanhalt]

Might depend on the plastic.  Superglue (aka CA) was used to attach pushrod guide tubes inside fiberglass fuselages for gliders and other models.  It makes acrylic very brittle and caused some crashes. The epoxy fiberglass was apparently unaffected.  I also have some IDFF (identify friend or foe) models from WWII from my dad.  They were made of hard rubber.  I stored them in the same large cabinet.  One model (B29)was destroyed by the fumes after a few years, which were undetectable by smell.  Fortunately, I saved the other model, a B17 in time.  But the wings do show some blistering.

My choice for a permanent mount would be a moisture curing polyurethane or epoxy.  Maybe some of the newer removable but permanent tapes would work?   3M's brand is Command.  That type of tape is available in rolls on Amazon.  I just today bought a roll.  The tapes give an instant grab.

EDIT: FWIW, the brand I bought is 1" Trazon.  It won't arrive until later this week.  I have no experience with it.  I have used the 3M stuff, and it works as advertised, but like other great stuff from 3M, it's expensive.

[monore]

Just to make sure I am clear here. I am applying the glue on an open air room and waiting for the part to dry first before I place it on my device. That said, I would suspect that any vapors emitted by the glue will only be emitted while the glue is drying (once dried I assume no more vapors will be produced) and that the vapors will simply dissipate on the room. I can also add a fan so that any vapors emitted will just blow away. Am I thinking straight?

Also, the bond is good, is rock solid and the machine sits on a stable air conditioned room.

[monore]

They were made of hard rubber.  I stored them in the same large cabinet.  One model (B29)was destroyed by the fumes after a few years, which were undetectable by smell. 

So the fumes keep coming even after so many years? That is going to ruin my day. The only potentially good thing is that the device the camera is sitting on has grills for ventilation so theoretically, the fumes would just dissipate... although I am sure some would make it to the camera....

[T3sl4co1l]

I'm not aware that modern CA decomposes appreciably once set.  It does decompose on heating, so like, you wouldn't want to use it for PCB assemblies that are still going to be soldered on.  But finished stuff at modest temperatures, no worries.

And yeah, fumes into the lens would obviously not be great.

Epoxy not an option?

Tim

[jpanhalt]

The glue bottles were stored in canning jars with rubber seals.  And to be clear, CA is safe on epoxy.  I would be concerned about other plastics in the camera.

[jpanhalt]

It does decompose on heating, so like, you wouldn't want to use it for PCB assemblies that are still going to be soldered on.

That's exactly why I use CA for fixing parts to be soldered.

[monore]

Epoxy not an option?

I guess I never gave Epoxy any though... fumes being an issue did not even cross my mind. Any chance you can point me to an Epoxy product that you would use for this purpose, maybe form Homedepot, Lowes or Walmart? I am only listing those stores because I see you are posting from the USA.

Also, if you don't mind me asking, why is superglue = CA? What is the relationship to the name? EDIT: Never mind.... Super glue, cyanoacrylate, and CA glue are all different names that describe the same adhesive — Cyanoacrylate (https://askingthelot.com/is-ca-glue-the-same-as-super-glue/).

[jpanhalt]

Most consumer 1:1 epoxies are similar, if not identical.  You won't find industrial epoxies that usually have different mix ratios there.

[2N3055]

C.A.  -> Cyanoacrylates..

I also think Epoxy would be better choice.

Maybe UV cured one ?

[MarkF]

You might also consider Eclectic E6000  (I use to call it 'shoe glue').  It is like rubber cement and remains flexible.  I actually do use it to repair shoes that are coming apart.  Don't know how it would react to the camera lens.  But, I do use it to mount PCBs inside my HO locomotives without issue.

[jpanhalt]

Also, if you don't mind me asking, why is superglue = CA? What is the relationship to the name?

CA = cyanoacrylate = superglue
Not all super glues are the same.  Consumer brands are pretty similar, however.

[jpanhalt]

You might also consider Eclectic E6000  (I use to call it 'shoe glue').  It is like rubber cement and remains flexible.  I actually do use it to repair shoes that are coming apart.  Don't know how it would react to the camera lens.  But, I do use it to mount PCBs inside my HO locomotives without issue.

I love that stuff, but it takes at least 24 hours to cure. Cure is by evaporation.  Its peel strength is great.  A previous name was shoe goop.

[T3sl4co1l]

I thought Shoe Goo was still on the market, and E6000 is a similar (improved?) product?

How much strength do you need on this bond?  If it's a wide area and not subject to much force, any "instant" epoxy will do.  Generally, slower the cure, stronger the bond.  With fillers being helpful too, so, you have stuff like JB Weld actually being quite competent despite the casual availability.  (Its higher temperature formulation smells a bit of phenolic, not sure what all exactly is in it.)  Clean the surfaces well, and if it's shiny (solder mask?), consider roughing it up a bit with sandpaper first.  (Obviously, don't go so deep you expose traces!)

Tim

[jpanhalt]

I thought Shoe Goo was still on the market, and E6000 is a similar (improved?) product?

I believe they are the same and both from Eclectic Chemical.  Shoe Goo was directed at a different market.  E6000 was in arts and crafts stores, like Michaels.  E6000 seems to be much more widely distributed in the Cleveland area now.  I started with Shoe Goo, but when that became hard to find, I switched to E6000.  So far as I can tell they smell the same and act the same.  There may be some slight difference in VOC as Shoe Goo came out before those regulations (or maybe it was the chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent?).

EDIT:  I guess I shouldn't shoot from the hip.  The SDS for Shoe Goo shows toluene and light naphtha listed as solvents.  E6000 shows tetrachloroethylene (aka PERC) as the solvent.  I like the smell regardless.   Maybe it was flammability?