OK, since I am not getting any more replies regarding improvements to the design, I'll go ahead and make the PCB layout. But before I do that I need to select parts.
Huge shout-out to Kleinstein, David Hess, and Yansi for helping me improve the design! Thank you guys!! I appreciate it! I'm sure it can be further improved but at this point I just want to have a power supply that works. I might respin the board in the future to make improvements. But currently I keep running into the problem of needing a power supply and always end up bodging together a temporary LM317 circuit zener shunt regulators, I'm tired of wasting time with that.
I did some research on the 0.25 ohm resistors I have, and as it turns out, they have a 90 PPM /
OC temp-co!
I found a really cheap (30 cent) strip of metal on Mouser claiming to be a 5% tolerance 0.1 ohm resistor with a more reasonable 20 PPM /
OC temp co. There is only one resistor that has an even lower temp-co (at an astonishing 0.05% 3 PPM /
OC) but they are asking $40 frickin dollars for it!!!
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=OAR1R100FLFvirtualkey66200000virtualkey66-OAR1R100FLFOh, BTW, is there a way to perhaps "glue" a resistor of simalar temp-co to the shunt and use it to control the set current? My idea is that as the temperature of shunt rises, so will the temperature of the thermal sense resistor and if it rises at the same rate as R4, then perhaps I can get thermal compensation? I'll look into the calculations for that another day but I'm sure it could help a little.
For a DAC (to allow interfacing to arduino and possibly even an app!) I selected the classic CMP4725 as it was one of the cheapest options available, appears to be easy to interface, and there is a sparkfun breakout board featuring the chip, so clearly it should be arduino friendly (libraries should exist for easily interfacing it.)
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=MCP4725A0T-E%2fCHvirtualkey57940000virtualkey579-MCP4725A0TECHUnfortunately this limits me to 2mA resolution (which I guess isn't too bad) and 5mV resolution (From 0 --15V) if I want round increments without the ugly voltages produced by using the full resolution. Also I think this design might allow me to have an output that can go up to 30V, with the right transformer with enough tabs!
The op amps should be (barely) capable as they can handle +/- 20V, which equates to 40V. I might add a shunt across them incase a surge occurs and blows my $$$ LT1007 parts.
I found these
EC12D1524403's to be the cheapest rotary encoders that are pushable and have 24 clicks of resolution:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=EC12D1524403virtualkey68800000virtualkey688-EC12D1524403Most of the resistors, op amps, arduino, tack buttons, IC sockets, BJTs, diodes, and other passives, I have plenty of these. I have a significant savings here, too.
The 2 things stopping me now is my selection for a transformer and, out of all things, finding some good knobs. On mouser, although there are a lot of options in power transformers, none are particularly cheap or suitable. I thought I might be able to get 3 smaller 5V transformers but this turns out to be more costly than a single large transformer.
Does anyone know of a source to get a nice large 100VA transformer with 5 3V tabs, 3, 5V tabs, or 2 individual 12V tabs? Or maybe a 200VA transformer with the number of tabs doubled? I have heard of suggestions to rewind a MOT transformer, which I like the idea, but I would need to increase the turns on the primary as well to avoid core saturation. I don't want to have to force cool the transformer as well.
And lastly, I want a jog wheel for the voltage/current set. I plan to use a single encoder that can be pushed to change between CC adjust and CV adjust. (no reason to spend extra for 2 knobs given no time saving in setting the output.) I would also use velocity control which would allow an automatic coarse and fine adjust. So I need a nice big knob!!! Anyone can link me to a good choice?