Driver frozen up is a very common failure mode; I've replaced more than I can count. ![Tongue :P](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/xtongue.gif.pagespeed.ic.J5mTe0A2NA.png)
That's when the recone kit comes out. Such things do exist. I've done more JBL 2220 and 2225 15" drivers than I can count. Although, for a simple 6" car woofer, not likely to find one. Aftermarket foam surrounds, though. That is a thing.
Get a pair of cheap aftermarket 4Ω speakers the right size and replace both so the sound is the same. If that speaker measures 2Ω DCR, actual impedance will be a bit higher; more like 2.5-3Ω. Inversely, a 4Ω impedance speaker will usually measure 3-3.6Ω DCR.
2Ω might be a battered 4Ω too. I've done a few in-door replacements, and there's one coming up soon here. What I usually do, is to go to used parts dealers and buy from scrapped cars. For a lot of non-wear items (and a good deal wear items too) this is a very convenient and cheap way to prolong the life of your car. In Sweden, there's a common online database service for about 150 dealers where you can search on mfr part number and find who's got it. Very, very effective and convenient.
Under any circumstances, in most cases using a lower impedance speaker will do nothing except decrease max volume a bit and make the amp run a bit cooler. ![Confused :-//](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/confused0024.gif.pagespeed.ce.5xOqKkq0Co.gif)
Now, lowered impedance, if we for a while play "DC == AC" simplification game, means more current. More current usually means hotter transistors. The limiting factor for output power is rail voltage, which will set an output level at which clipping happens. In an ideal amplifier, half the load impedance means double current at a fixed max voltage, doubling the output power, and making the amp run hotter. Less than ideal amplifiers usually mean that the power supply can't supply enough current, or the transistors won't deal with the power levels, placing a limit on how low load impedance safely can be.
I'm quite bad at electronics, and I only have professional user experience of power amplifiers, but this is what I learnt during perhaps 20 years doing such things on and off.
So, how come you predict the amp will run cooler? And then we've not discussed any passive crossover point moving because the impedance is a part of the filter..
Yeah, reconing isn't going to fix a voice coil rusted fast. Also very NCE for a cheap factory speaker. Spec indicated that cost was a concern, so I recommended replacing with a set of cheap aftermarket drivers.
No, the speaker is labeled 2Ω as well. It is not normal for a speaker to read the same DCR as it is labeled; impedance is, as you know, dynamic loading.
Yeah, that was a brain-fart on my part plain & simple. I was thinking "higher impedance will just lower the speaker loading, etc..." and completely failed to error check before I posted. ![Embarrassed :-[](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/xembarrassed.gif.pagespeed.ic.zcm3EmNu9T.png)
I've gone back and corrected, tho it still feels a wee bit clunky due to trying to fit into existing post.
Under any circumstances, in most cases using a lower impedance speaker will do nothing except higher impedance speaker will do nothing except lower speaker loading and decrease max volume a bit, which will make the amp run a bit cooler. ![Confused :-//](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/confused0024.gif.pagespeed.ce.5xOqKkq0Co.gif)
In my experience, the real-world difference in replacing a 6-8" driver (in a car door; if it were in a tuned enclosure, a different story altogether) with another that is 1Ω different impedance is in most cases not going to be something you can even hear. He
might even be able to get away with replacing just the one speaker, but most likely there would be a difference in perceived volume.
As for the crossover... a lot of things to consider.
If it uses a passive X-O,
there would be a theoretical difference in response, yes... but in real-world sound quality, the difference will likely not be great due to the fact of not being in a sealed/tuned enclosure (the car door). If I were REALLY concerned about the audio fidelity (like when I used to do dB drags and such), I'd replace the whole shebang with a name-brand component set and use the crossover that came with it.
However... another thing to consider... a lot of the OEM "premium sound" setups use bi-amp and even tri-amp drive, with active crossover in the frontend. There you'd be looking at very little difference between a 3Ω speaker and one with nominal 4Ω impedance.
If that speaker is actually
supposed to be 2Ω, then yes... could be a noticeable difference, particularly in relative volume. But myself, as this is just gramma's grocery getter, I'd probably
try a cheap pair of aftermarket drivers first and see if I could get decent sound out of 'em.
mnem
![Tweak :-/O](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/smiliey_cal.gif.pagespeed.ce.yYMcAvxBJk.gif)