Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Cerebus]

Re: PP auctions

Someone on the UK vintage radio forum commented that some auction companies, can bid on behalf of the seller and that it is in the terms & conditions, well they were right.

From https://www.ppauctions.com/terms-and-conditions
12. The Auctioneers my divide, combine, add to or withdraw lots and make any catalogue alterations without notice or reason; they shall regulate bidding, accept or reject any bid (at their absolute discretion and without justification) and bid on behalf of the Client, where there is a reserve price or at their authorised discretion.

This certainly explains the unsold lots & bidder with no bidding limit. 

David

If that is what it looks like, it's shill bidding, it's illegal, and people get prosecuted for it:

In 2010, Paul Barrett became the first person to be prosecuted in the UK for bidding against himself on eBay (a practice often referred to as ‘shill bidding’). He was fined £3,500 and ordered to pay costs of £1,456 and carry out 250 hours of unpaid work. On sentencing him, Judge Peter Benson, sitting at Bradford Crown Court, said he only escaped a prison sentence because he had no previous convictions for dishonesty.

[factory]

Speaking of power cables, anyone got one of those Tek power cables that looks like an extension cable they want to sell? (Number 2 in the attached image).
I have a type 284 pulse gen that needs one and I can't find a rewirable plug that will fit without removing the collar around the connection on the back of the unit.

I have one. But I need it for my Tek stuff. Unfortunately that style is pretty much obsolete and as you found out the modern female receptacles are too large in diameter to fit into the recess. And apparently they are becoming as rare as hen's teeth too.

I did buy a rewire-able US cable mounted socket from Amazon Amascum, but it was too big to fit those Tek recessed chassis mounted plugs.
It wasn't a wasted purchase though as I made a short lead, with a UK plug on the other end.
Useful for those HP items with a small hole in the casing that isn't big enough for a non-US plug to fit through. Just need to remember not to plug any 110V only items into it. 
Also it is much better quality than that piece-O-shit intermittent universal travel adaptor socket, I got from Maplin.

David

[tggzzz]

Math being universal and undeniable, it's the most reliable way of eliminating confusing.

Ask people what is "1+2*3"? Include teachers

You've got to be kidding! Anyone who has learnt any amount of maths should have learnt the "PEMDAS" rules and know what order things should be calculated

No, and yes respectively. Blame cheap calculators.

[tggzzz]

Type 105: Successful power up. No smoke. But we do have some issues.

First issue. The critical -150V reference won't go any lower than about -160V. Line voltage related? Not sure yet. It's wired for 117V and my line voltage is typically 123V and higher. There's no wiring option for 125V. It could be something else and I'll check into it.

Looking good so far ! 

However I don't understand why you are complaining that the ref voltage won't go lower than -160V ?! It's not supposed to go lower than that, or even get as low as -160V to begin with, it's supposed to HIGHER Med, HIGHER , at -150V !! 
If it can go as far as -160V then why can't you adjust it -150V ?

Vince, this is an old argument, in that many people used to say negative voltages were, by definition, "lower" than positive ones, hence, greater numerical values of negative voltage were regarded as "lower" than lesser numerical values.

This point of view has largely died out, as it is confusing &, at least, to me, counterintuitive.
It is much easier to go by the numerical values of voltages of the same polarity-------thus, -160v is a higher voltage than -150v.

Oh, didn't know that was a "subject " ! 

I guess to each their own, but over here at least, it's the other way around. -160 is factually a lower number than -150. Math being universal and undeniable, it's the most reliable way of eliminating confusing.

Saying that -160V is higher than -150 however IS very confusing to me !

But that's OK... the numbers don't lie, so as long as people don't write (+)160V when they really mean -160V, we should be alright and circuits will still work! 

It's simple... and still mathematically valid. Just understand that in terms of potential, we're usually talking about absolute value, not which number is "most positive".

If you can wrap your head around peak-peak voltage, getting used to this should be a cakewalk.

mnem
*tzzzzzzt*

Actually,it isn't potential, it is potential difference.

Your position would lead people to believe there is no potential difference between something at +150V (relative to an arbitrary point) and -150V.

[factory]

Re: PP auctions

Someone on the UK vintage radio forum commented that some auction companies, can bid on behalf of the seller and that it is in the terms & conditions, well they were right.

From https://www.ppauctions.com/terms-and-conditions
12. The Auctioneers my divide, combine, add to or withdraw lots and make any catalogue alterations without notice or reason; they shall regulate bidding, accept or reject any bid (at their absolute discretion and without justification) and bid on behalf of the Client, where there is a reserve price or at their authorised discretion.

This certainly explains the unsold lots & bidder with no bidding limit. 

David

If that is what it looks like, it's shill bidding, it's illegal, and people get prosecuted for it:

In 2010, Paul Barrett became the first person to be prosecuted in the UK for bidding against himself on eBay (a practice often referred to as ‘shill bidding’). He was fined £3,500 and ordered to pay costs of £1,456 and carry out 250 hours of unpaid work. On sentencing him, Judge Peter Benson, sitting at Bradford Crown Court, said he only escaped a prison sentence because he had no previous convictions for dishonesty.

As they class the sale as for Trade buyers only, does that apply? And why don't they use the reserve system? 

Individual Terms and Conditions

You must accept these individual specifc terms and conditions before registering.

Please note that Peaker Pattinson on-line Auctions / Tenders are intended for trade customers only and are operated on completely different terms and laws to 'person to person' Auctions such as eBay. You have registered as an individual / sole trader or non-account customer and we would therefore request your confirmation as follows:-

1. You are bidding as a trade buyer, and all lots are purchased with all faults / descriptive errors on an 'as seen' basis. (Even if you have not viewed them).

David

P.S. they need to run their T&Cs through a spellchecker & get someone to proof read it. 
P.P.S it's now almost impossible to tell if shill bidding is happening on ePay, thanks to the random letter method of hiding usernames.

[Specmaster]

So it seems that I've actually won something on the bay of evil, checking my emails, I got myself a Thandar SC110 2" 10MHz portable oscilloscope, untested, well we shall see just what state it is in when it arrives, will it fire up or not...time will tell 

[Cerebus]

As they class the sale as for Trade buyers only, does that apply? And why don't they use the reserve system? 

Individual Terms and Conditions

You must accept these individual specifc terms and conditions before registering.

Please note that Peaker Pattinson on-line Auctions / Tenders are intended for trade customers only and are operated on completely different terms and laws to 'person to person' Auctions such as eBay. You have registered as an individual / sole trader or non-account customer and we would therefore request your confirmation as follows:-

1. You are bidding as a trade buyer, and all lots are purchased with all faults / descriptive errors on an 'as seen' basis. (Even if you have not viewed them).

David

P.S. they need to run their T&Cs through a spellchecker & get someone to proof read it. 
P.P.S it's now almost impossible to tell if shill bidding is happening on ePay, thanks to the random letter method of hiding usernames.

Makes no difference to the legality, it just means that they would get prosecuted for fraud rather than for deceptive or unfair trade practices under consumer law. Ultimately there's always "Common Law Cheat" as the basis for a criminal charge.

[factory]

Some of the TE I collected from PP last Monday, not pictured is the box of hp 180/181 series SA plug-ins (all been raided for parts by previous owner), Cox TV encoder thingy, Huntron Tracker, box of cables and the lot of books (which did include three folders of HP journals, all random years).

The hp 182A & 182T, the later 182T has a longer CRT with the internal graticule illumimation, plus uses higher HT. I noted the 182A was only in the catalog for a two years before it got replaced by the "C" model. The 182A is S/N 1140U00139, made in the South Queensfery hp site in Scotland.




Tek 453, looks a PITA to replace the cropped off power cord. 


Saved an AVO Test Set Multi-Range No. 1 from becoming another lamp foot or timepiece or tooth-blue audio device.  And unlike the last AVO 8 I acquired (with O/C meter), this one appears to be functional & no leak-tubes left inside, I've not yet checked the accuracy though.



hp storage normalizer with the often missing lead, unfortunately has the network analyzer card fitted, no idea if it can be used with the 180T SA like this. 


The Racal 9835 counter has a bit of a rattle, found this TCC smoothing bomb loose inside. 


Systron-Donner/Datapulse 88 pulse generator, according to the book the '99' version doesn't have the +5V 1A PSU built in.


David

[Vince]

Boy,taking the 2467B PSU apart is not as quick and easy as I would have liked, lots of stuff to take apart.

I better hurry and replace the caps ASAP before I forget how to put it all back together ! 

Looked at all the caps and made a list. 36 caps in all, with the RIFA and electrolytics.  12 different caps in all. Gonna have to spend some time on Farnell's site to pull all that out.

I am sure it's gonna be more expensive than Papa Smurf's Mouser BOM, and by a good bit probably...

But that will be tomorrow's job. For now..... 

Thanks for another entertaining day, looking forward to seeing what subject tomorrow will bring... 

[factory]

Double check, but I seem to remember those 1uF 50V capacitors are bi-polar (aka no polarized) types, I ended up buying a bag of 100 of them, as RS/Farnell don't do them individually, decided not to use Mouser as they refused to sell the RAM battery.

David

[Saskia]

mouser sucks. will try to avoid them in the future

That is surprising. Been ordering from them for quite a few years and the only time I had delayed delivery was last year when they had a double whammy of Covid and loss of power due to an ice storm.

ordered on Sept 09 2021. shipment dates postponed until I had to vacate my apartment. They denied rerouting of shipment, cancelled order, told me to reorder again, fill out second set of import documentation, gave me a delivery date in February, sold the stuff to someone else, gave me a new shipping date of Aug 25th. 2022. Stuff has already been paid for (380€), no refund, sales not reachable, Feedback via website not working, escalation not working.

This is one of the absolute worst dealings I had with any company so far.
Fuck them.

[tautech]

Boy,taking the 2467B PSU apart is not as quick and easy as I would have liked, lots of stuff to take apart.

I better hurry and replace the caps ASAP before I forget how to put it all back together ! 

Looked at all the caps and made a list. 36 caps in all, with the RIFA and electrolytics.  12 different caps in all. Gonna have to spend some time on Farnell's site to pull all that out.

I am sure it's gonna be more expensive than Papa Smurf's Mouser BOM, and by a good bit probably...

But that will be tomorrow's job. For now..... 

Thanks for another entertaining day, looking forward to seeing what subject tomorrow will bring... 

At least not too many axial caps as them getting hard to find.
Always considered getting one of these 246* scopes but yeah, nah.

[Robert763]

Re: PP auctions

Someone on the UK vintage radio forum commented that some auction companies, can bid on behalf of the seller and that it is in the terms & conditions, well they were right.

From https://www.ppauctions.com/terms-and-conditions
12. The Auctioneers my divide, combine, add to or withdraw lots and make any catalogue alterations without notice or reason; they shall regulate bidding, accept or reject any bid (at their absolute discretion and without justification) and bid on behalf of the Client, where there is a reserve price or at their authorised discretion.

This certainly explains the unsold lots & bidder with no bidding limit. 

David

That's been standard practice for ever. Used to be called bidding against the back wall. It's a means of not revealing a reserve. Typically the non existent bid is higher than the reserve.
There used to be computer auctions in Ringwood and for 3 auctions a huge lot of mixed printer tractor feed units was "sold". At the third sale a number of "regulars" were told to take whatever they wanted for free. I got a large quantity of steel shafting, toothed belts and pulleys and  few stepper motors. The bin got filled with a lot of plastic.

EDIT: After reading other comments, it not an offence if a reserve is set before the auction (need evidence of this but they don't have t reveal it or tht there is a reserve) AND no one bids above the reserve other than the "back wall".
It is illegal for the auctioneer or seller to bid the price up against another bidder above the reserve or if there is no reserve.
Ebay do (or at least did) check for shill bidding including recording ip addresses. I'd previously used a friends computer to access my ebay account and he got a warning from ebay when he bid on one of my items. H thought he was doing the right thing instead of asking me to close the auction andsell it to him off-ebay.....

[mnementh]

Type 105: Successful power up. No smoke. But we do have some issues.

First issue. The critical -150V reference won't go any lower than about -160V. Line voltage related? Not sure yet. It's wired for 117V and my line voltage is typically 123V and higher. There's no wiring option for 125V. It could be something else and I'll check into it.

Looking good so far ! 

However I don't understand why you are complaining that the ref voltage won't go lower than -160V ?! It's not supposed to go lower than that, or even get as low as -160V to begin with, it's supposed to HIGHER Med, HIGHER , at -150V !! 
If it can go as far as -160V then why can't you adjust it -150V ?

Vince, this is an old argument, in that many people used to say negative voltages were, by definition, "lower" than positive ones, hence, greater numerical values of negative voltage were regarded as "lower" than lesser numerical values.

This point of view has largely died out, as it is confusing &, at least, to me, counterintuitive.
It is much easier to go by the numerical values of voltages of the same polarity-------thus, -160v is a higher voltage than -150v.

Oh, didn't know that was a "subject " ! 

I guess to each their own, but over here at least, it's the other way around. -160 is factually a lower number than -150. Math being universal and undeniable, it's the most reliable way of eliminating confusing.

Saying that -160V is higher than -150 however IS very confusing to me !

But that's OK... the numbers don't lie, so as long as people don't write (+)160V when they really mean -160V, we should be alright and circuits will still work! 

It's simple... and still mathematically valid. Just understand that in terms of potential, we're usually talking about absolute value, not which number is "most positive".

If you can wrap your head around peak-peak voltage, getting used to this should be a cakewalk.

mnem
*tzzzzzzt*

Actually,it isn't potential, it is potential difference.

Your position would lead people to believe there is no potential difference between something at +150V (relative to an arbitrary point) and -150V.

Ummm... no. That would be the same as adding two absolute values, and the math holds. 

mnem
 

[mnementh]

As they class the sale as for Trade buyers only, does that apply? And why don't they use the reserve system? 

Individual Terms and Conditions

You must accept these individual specifc terms and conditions before registering.

Please note that Peaker Pattinson on-line Auctions / Tenders are intended for trade customers only and are operated on completely different terms and laws to 'person to person' Auctions such as eBay. You have registered as an individual / sole trader or non-account customer and we would therefore request your confirmation as follows:-

1. You are bidding as a trade buyer, and all lots are purchased with all faults / descriptive errors on an 'as seen' basis. (Even if you have not viewed them).

David

P.S. they need to run their T&Cs through a spellchecker & get someone to proof read it. 
P.P.S it's now almost impossible to tell if shill bidding is happening on ePay, thanks to the random letter method of hiding usernames.

Makes no difference to the legality, it just means that they would get prosecuted for fraud rather than for deceptive or unfair trade practices under consumer law. Ultimately there's always "Common Law Cheat" as the basis for a criminal charge.

Isn't this the same thing as the "proxy bidding" which eBay does on your behalf; bidding for you by minimum bid increment up to your maximum bid?

I generally don't like to employ it, as experience has shown me that when it oscillates against someone else's proxy bid, the activity encourages "day before feeding frenzies". I much prefer to use Gixen for this reason, and because Gixen doesn't bid up to your maximum trying to satisfy a reserve bid, which the eBay proxy will do immediately. I usually avoid reserve auctions, tho, as they offend me. The logic is "I'm going to put it up for sale, but not really unless there's a feeding frenzy and it goes for more than it's worth." It's like Lucy and that fucking football...

mnem

[Cerebus]

mouser sucks. will try to avoid them in the future

That is surprising. Been ordering from them for quite a few years and the only time I had delayed delivery was last year when they had a double whammy of Covid and loss of power due to an ice storm.

ordered on Sept 09 2021. shipment dates postponed until I had to vacate my apartment. They denied rerouting of shipment, cancelled order, told me to reorder again, fill out second set of import documentation, gave me a delivery date in February, sold the stuff to someone else, gave me a new shipping date of Aug 25th. 2022. Stuff has already been paid for (380€), no refund, sales not reachable, Feedback via website not working, escalation not working.

This is one of the absolute worst dealings I had with any company so far.
Fuck them.

Go for the BD139 route, start shitposting about them on Twitter, seems to produce almost instant positive results.

[Cerebus]

Isn't this the same thing as the "proxy bidding" which eBay does on your behalf; bidding for you by minimum bid increment up to your maximum bid?

No, because they are talking about bidding on behalf of their client i.e the seller. The language is so poor that frankly who knows what they really mean, but that is what they have written. Any auctioneer ought to know that shill bidding is illegal, and any sane person would not put in their T&Cs that they reserved the power to to commit a criminal act. So they are either criminally stupid criminals, or simply stupid enough to write their own T&Cs without at least letting a lawyer run their eyes over it and also someone who can spell. Who knows?

[Cerebus]

Re: PP auctions

Someone on the UK vintage radio forum commented that some auction companies, can bid on behalf of the seller and that it is in the terms & conditions, well they were right.

From https://www.ppauctions.com/terms-and-conditions
12. The Auctioneers my divide, combine, add to or withdraw lots and make any catalogue alterations without notice or reason; they shall regulate bidding, accept or reject any bid (at their absolute discretion and without justification) and bid on behalf of the Client, where there is a reserve price or at their authorised discretion.

This certainly explains the unsold lots & bidder with no bidding limit. 

David

That's been standard practice for ever. Used to be called bidding against the back wall. It's a means of not revealing a reserve. Typically the non existent bid is higher than the reserve.
There used to be computer auctions in Ringwood and for 3 auctions a huge lot of mixed printer tractor feed units was "sold". At the third sale a number of "regulars" were told to take whatever they wanted for free. I got a large quantity of steel shafting, toothed belts and pulleys and  few stepper motors. The bin got filled with a lot of plastic.

EDIT: After reading other comments, it not an offence if a reserve is set before the auction (need evidence of this but they don't have t reveal it or tht there is a reserve) AND no one bids above the reserve other than the "back wall".
It is illegal for the auctioneer or seller to bid the price up against another bidder above the reserve or if there is no reserve.
Ebay do (or at least did) check for shill bidding including recording ip addresses. I'd previously used a friends computer to access my ebay account and he got a warning from ebay when he bid on one of my items. H thought he was doing the right thing instead of asking me to close the auction andsell it to him off-ebay.....

In more civilised circles that's know as a "chandelier bit", only used as an initial bid to start things moving if buyers are slow to make an opening bid, it's frowned upon and some would call it unethical. I've never encountered anyone using such bids to outbid an actual bidder to reach a reserve. Every physical auction I've been to a reserve has either been declared to exist at the start of the bidding for a particular lot (but not usually the amount of the reserve), or declared to have not been met after the hammer falls if the reserve was not reached.

Wall bids that counter actual bids made by people make the demand price appear higher than it in fact is - that is deceptive, thus a deceit, thus dishonest. If the auctioneer uses wall bids to push the bids up to the reserve it is fraudulent as it inflates the apparent worth of the goods ("other people are still bidding so it must be worth it"). The whole purpose of an auction is to honestly establish the highest price people will pay for goods of uncertain value. The reserve is just the seller's minimum price, for an auctioneer to make it appear that it is a price that someone in the room is willing to actually pay, notwithstanding whether the reserve is realistic or not, is deliberately misleading. An auctioneer caught doing so is in for a discussion with the police about fraud.

All it would take to make an iron clad case is to sell something that had a stupidly high reserve at well over the market price to someone naïve as to the true value, who then finds out that they've been taken for a mug and complains to the police (and for P.C. Plod on the front desk to actually know the law and refer the complainant to someone in CID).

[vk6zgo]

Type 105: Successful power up. No smoke. But we do have some issues.

First issue. The critical -150V reference won't go any lower than about -160V. Line voltage related? Not sure yet. It's wired for 117V and my line voltage is typically 123V and higher. There's no wiring option for 125V. It could be something else and I'll check into it.

Looking good so far ! 

However I don't understand why you are complaining that the ref voltage won't go lower than -160V ?! It's not supposed to go lower than that, or even get as low as -160V to begin with, it's supposed to HIGHER Med, HIGHER , at -150V !! 
If it can go as far as -160V then why can't you adjust it -150V ?

Vince, this is an old argument, in that many people used to say negative voltages were, by definition, "lower" than positive ones, hence, greater numerical values of negative voltage were regarded as "lower" than lesser numerical values.

This point of view has largely died out, as it is confusing &, at least, to me, counterintuitive.
It is much easier to go by the numerical values of voltages of the same polarity-------thus, -160v is a higher voltage than -150v.

Oh, didn't know that was a "subject " ! 

I guess to each their own, but over here at least, it's the other way around. -160 is factually a lower number than -150. Math being universal and undeniable, it's the most reliable way of eliminating confusing.

Saying that -160V is higher than -150 however IS very confusing to me !

But that's OK... the numbers don't lie, so as long as people don't write (+)160V when they reallymean -160V, we should be alright and circuits will still work! 

Maths don't bite you & bounce you on your bum!
In Maths you can have concepts like " -160 is lower than -150", but in Electronics, whether we call it a negative or positive voltage just  depends on where you put your reference, the potential difference is still real!
A 12 v car globe doesn't care if you use it on a modern car with negative earth, or a vintage British car with a positive earth----it still lights up!

[vk6zgo]

Math being universal and undeniable, it's the most reliable way of eliminating confusing.

Ask people what is "1+2*3"? Include teachers

I ask them back---"Where are the brackets?"

[TERRA Operative]

Tek 2467B
@TerraOperative :

Thanks for the video ! Wow that was an excellent one ! 40 minutes of 2467B goodness, TSP levels of quality !
I learned an awful lot in that video for sure !

Wow you recreated the convoluted front panel flatflex, I am impressed ! 
I meant to ask you how it costs but I understand you have a partnership with PCBWay so you probably got it for and do'nt even know how much they would have charged ?
Anyway, looks like I will leave that flat flex well alone unless I really need to clean those pots  ! 
... but good to know that if I screw it up anyway, you have the Gerbers ready for me to get a new cable done !

So looks like I have an Mk1 scope then... the CPU board has the Lithium battery + RAM, not the later integrated NVRAM.
My scope is even older than yours.. battery dated December 1988 !  The ASICs on the main board are dated 6+ months prior to that, April/May 1988.
Thanks for the great detail about the battery replacement, I ought to do that before it's too late I guess ! 

Not touching the flat flex for now, however I still need to pull the front panel regardless, because one of the green status LEDs is kaput IIRC !
Too bad the main board needs to come out to pull the front panel 
Looks like most of the misery comes from having to desolder each and every BNC socket eh ? But looks like if approached calmly and one is taking his time, it should not be that difficult/risky of a job. I guess I shall see...
Problem is finding a new LED with the characteristics as the old one ! So that the colour and brightness are identical (enough) to "blend" with the others ! 
I guess back then there were no high brightness LEDs, so I need to get old school technology LEDs, to begin with. But then need one with the same wavelength and brightness / luminosity !
I will look in the part list, maybe there is a manufacturer part number in there, I could look up the datasheet to find specs and try to find something similar....
If not I guess I will have to buy many different makes and models and try them all to see which one gives the most acceptable result, gonna be time consuming ! 

I see a lot of electrolytic caps on the main boar as well ! 
Not touching this board unless proven faulty  AND until I have decent soldering gear. Need a powerful iron for this kind of large multi-layer boards, as well as a solder sucker iron gizmo like you have.  Not going to risk damaging the board with my old 50 Watt Magnastat Weller... 

Thanks again for the video !!! 

I'm not sure what the flat flex PCB's are worth from memory, but much more than your typical $5 prototype PCB.
I ordered 2 and got 3 sent, so you might be lucky too, maybe... (Sorry, I have none left)
It would be trivial to run a dummy order to get a price though, I think I linked to gerbers? Hit me up if not.

I can't help with the LED's sorry, but cross referencing part numbers and looking up datasheets is your best bet.

For the capacitors, I would stay at the PSU and the memory battery etc for now. The main 'acquisition board' on the underside is quite the process to remove and not really needed unless you are a little insane like me.

FIREFOX : need to insall an extension to download Pornhub Youtube videos and whatnot, what is the most popular/better one to use these days ??

Firefox lists a bunch of them when I do a search for "video download "...

Immediate goal is to download TerraOperative's video on his 2467B restoration, as it's really good. I would like to save it to my hard drive i my 2467B folder, so that I am 100% sure I have it at hand when I want, even if Terra goes mad and deletes it, or YT fucks up, or my internet connection goes completely kaput.

I can send you the video file directly if you like. Let me know your file size constraints and I'll open the original project file and pump out a new video file, just for Vince! I'll stick it on my google drive or something for you to download.

[cyclin_al]

I have one. But I need it for my Tek stuff. Unfortunately that style is pretty much obsolete and as you found out the modern female receptacles are too large in diameter to fit into the recess. And apparently they are becoming as rare as hen's teeth too.

I will have to keep that in mind for any potential acquisitions.  There are none of those in my stock.

Whew!    The RM564 plug is not recessed, so I have no need at the moment.

[cyclin_al]

So I went out to get a table saw (Bosch 635-216) and a miter saw (well, who would have guessed, a Festool KS 60, pickup in about 10 days ...)

I carried my KS 120 from Germany, yes 220V here in USA :-).
Bosch 635-216 is not available here in USA, I will bend my knees to Dewalt or other less stellar brands. 

If you are lucky, you may be able to find and old General unit with a cast iron base.  They don't make 'em like they used to.

Waiting (impatiently) for SWMBO's mother to let hers go.... not sure she has used it in the last 15 years...

[cyclin_al]

FIREFOX : need to insall an extension to download Pornhub Youtube videos and whatnot, what the most popular/better one to use these days ??

Firefox lists a bunch of them when I do a search for "video download "...

https://youtube-dl.org/

Not an extension then though.  I have "privatkopiera" in my Chrome. Swedish, and named "private copying" because the goons in the media industry have lobbied legislation in place for a tax on recordable media because "everyone uses empty cassettes to make copies of our precious music that the artist we've enslaved have made so we can profit from it."   These are the people that wanted a tax on iPods because they could store music. And won.


Since we're taxed, the software creator thought, might as well get our money's worth. Hence.

youtube-dl.org is definitely the way to go for you and I who have slow internet access.

I often put video links into a text file, then run it overnight to download the whole list without slowing down my more important activities (reading this thread with its huge pictures).

Also, it can log what is already downloaded, so you can set it up to automatically download things like the EEVblog channel and get the latest videos overnight (without re-downloading what you already have).

[tautech]

Tek 2467B
@TerraOperative :

Thanks for the video ! Wow that was an excellent one ! 40 minutes of 2467B goodness, TSP levels of quality !
I learned an awful lot in that video for sure !

Wow you recreated the convoluted front panel flatflex, I am impressed ! 
I meant to ask you how it costs but I understand you have a partnership with PCBWay so you probably got it for and do'nt even know how much they would have charged ?
Anyway, looks like I will leave that flat flex well alone unless I really need to clean those pots  ! 
... but good to know that if I screw it up anyway, you have the Gerbers ready for me to get a new cable done !

So looks like I have an Mk1 scope then... the CPU board has the Lithium battery + RAM, not the later integrated NVRAM.
My scope is even older than yours.. battery dated December 1988 !  The ASICs on the main board are dated 6+ months prior to that, April/May 1988.
Thanks for the great detail about the battery replacement, I ought to do that before it's too late I guess ! 

Not touching the flat flex for now, however I still need to pull the front panel regardless, because one of the green status LEDs is kaput IIRC !
Too bad the main board needs to come out to pull the front panel 
Looks like most of the misery comes from having to desolder each and every BNC socket eh ? But looks like if approached calmly and one is taking his time, it should not be that difficult/risky of a job. I guess I shall see...
Problem is finding a new LED with the characteristics as the old one ! So that the colour and brightness are identical (enough) to "blend" with the others ! 
I guess back then there were no high brightness LEDs, so I need to get old school technology LEDs, to begin with. But then need one with the same wavelength and brightness / luminosity !
I will look in the part list, maybe there is a manufacturer part number in there, I could look up the datasheet to find specs and try to find something similar....
If not I guess I will have to buy many different makes and models and try them all to see which one gives the most acceptable result, gonna be time consuming ! 

I see a lot of electrolytic caps on the main boar as well ! 
Not touching this board unless proven faulty  AND until I have decent soldering gear. Need a powerful iron for this kind of large multi-layer boards, as well as a solder sucker iron gizmo like you have.  Not going to risk damaging the board with my old 50 Watt Magnastat Weller... 

Thanks again for the video !!! 

I'm not sure what the flat flex PCB's are worth from memory, but much more than your typical $5 prototype PCB.
I ordered 2 and got 3 sent, so you might be lucky too, maybe... (Sorry, I have none left)
It would be trivial to run a dummy order to get a price though, I think I linked to gerbers? Hit me up if not.

I can't help with the LED's sorry, but cross referencing part numbers and looking up datasheets is your best bet.

Color is the only thing really to focus on as I've never seen LED's used without a current limiting resistor so with a little experimentation the brightness should be pretty simple to match.