SashPlane and 82 Guests are viewing this topic.
Mmm so I played with KiCad a while ago and it kind of sucked a few years ago and I have used Eagle in the past so randomly today I made quicky dive into the shallow end of the Gene pool and played with Fusion/Eagle. The Autorouter completely SUCKS btw. Yep I know a through hole single sided board and a 555 shows a complete lack of imagination but So is it time before it is to late to run back to KiCad for another look ......
That’s stripboard territory that is (As long as you use that nice FR4 stripboard from Roth)
One for Bean....Going after some of his nocturnal marsupial cousins this year:
Thanks for the pointers. I had already done some research on this, including watching some videos of people who do it for a living, with the full automated preheater/reballing/hot air workstation, and the ones I'd seen up to that point evidently either didn't know better or were just doing both to make sure they didn't have to do it again.I studied several different videos, and the takeaway was preheat, bring up to approx 260-300°C for 20-30sec, (depending on the video) then cool down to ~200°C-ish quickly, then the rest of the way over a period of several minutes to prevent thermal shock. I got my stuff together for a "shadetree mechanic" approximation of such a lab, and got to work.Here I'm just starting to preheat; I brought temp up to ~110°C from the bottom with my cheap hot air gun...Then applied heat with both while watching the themometer to bring it up to ~260 for 10 seconds, then 300° for another 10 seconds, then down to 260° for 10 seconds, then pulled the rework gun away till it dropped to ~200°C, then slowly pulled it away over the course of several minutes to ~100°C, then just the bottom gun til it dropped below 50°.After that, I whipped the card together real quick & tried it on the UBCD... it powered up as usual, but after a second or so, the fan went from full speed down to approx 10%, and for the first time I could actually hear the Mac boot chime with this card! w00t! It took 30 seconds or so to boot, as this was off a IDE DVDRW drive; but we did get all the way there. Heartened by this, I popped the disc out ( I finally know what the Mac weenies in Dominion chat meant when they chanted "Six over, three down!!!" from time to time... that's the number of holes under the optical drive to find the right spot to poke the eject button... ) and slid drive sled #1 into its slot. Hall-leh-fukkin'-lu-jeh!!! Signs of life!!! I see a rotten apple on the screen! I let it run for aboot a minute, but progress was quite slow, and I was afraid to let it go any longer until I'd properly serviced the heat-sink, etc. as it was just on there with 4 screws.We'll see how that service goes... I have a .iso for Mint with Cinnamon and Xfce DE, as well as GhostBSD with MATE DE. If the Mac boot disk or the GT8800 don't wanna play nice, I have them on standby. mnem
Technically, it's called TE. I'd just call it ugly.It's a "lab power supply" that a colleague at work toasted, and asked me for a repair. So I said: "Yes, I'll have a look at it, most probably the power transistors will be shorted". I should have known better and said no, as this one is typical for the more recent stuff we have @work. The older stuff is better, but still works ...
Also: Anyone know what these connectors are?
Quick and dirty fix for it would be run it on Brand X Power tool batteries you already own and maybe a DC-DC converter to 12V (unless it already has one inside?) Plenty of adapters already out there - example eBay auction: #402636863211Or for me I have 3 and 4 cell LiPo's so just a harness and maybe some sort of BMS or voltage warning as our R/C gear doesn't use internal ones.
Quote from: beanflying on March 30, 2021, 07:49:28 amQuick and dirty fix for it would be run it on Brand X Power tool batteries you already own and maybe a DC-DC converter to 12V (unless it already has one inside?) Plenty of adapters already out there - example eBay auction: #402636863211Or for me I have 3 and 4 cell LiPo's so just a harness and maybe some sort of BMS or voltage warning as our R/C gear doesn't use internal ones.Nah I use a spotlight enough to justify having its own battery and this year with an explosion of bunnies a better setup than my old 30W incandesant and 7AH SLA's is called for and over our winter them possums are also easy pickings with a good setup.In 15 mins away I just got 4 in the house paddock for the cat using a LEDLENSER headlamp handheld ! Cat is smiling.
Quote from: Ice-Tea on March 30, 2021, 08:07:10 amAlso: Anyone know what these connectors are?If you'd give this to a plumber, he'd try to install it as a water heat exchanger
Quote from: tautech on March 30, 2021, 08:18:01 amQuote from: beanflying on March 30, 2021, 07:49:28 amQuick and dirty fix for it would be run it on Brand X Power tool batteries you already own and maybe a DC-DC converter to 12V (unless it already has one inside?) Plenty of adapters already out there - example eBay auction: #402636863211Or for me I have 3 and 4 cell LiPo's so just a harness and maybe some sort of BMS or voltage warning as our R/C gear doesn't use internal ones.Nah I use a spotlight enough to justify having its own battery and this year with an explosion of bunnies a better setup than my old 30W incandesant and 7AH SLA's is called for and over our winter them possums are also easy pickings with a good setup.In 15 mins away I just got 4 in the house paddock for the cat using a LEDLENSER headlamp handheld ! Cat is smiling. Unless you are likely to take up R/C anything or have another need/use for the pack then maybe look at the Jump Start pack options. Might be handy around the farm for the odd boost on a stubborn ? during winter. Also take capacities with a grain of salt on evilbay or Aliexpress unless there is some decent feedback on an item.https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20210330002500&SearchText=jump+start+packShould come as an easy to charge and protected item.
Quote from: mnementh on March 30, 2021, 01:09:30 amQuote from: Zoli on March 28, 2021, 02:47:58 pmQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 09:13:00 pmQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 02:03:02 pmQuote from: Zoli on March 26, 2021, 06:17:15 amQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 03:21:02 am...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash. I'm pretty sure, like all the nvidias of that age, is hit by bumpgate; maybe try an "oven reflow"?Yeah, I actually had considered this; I've been eyeing my cheap hot-air rework station all morning over coffee. So far, the coffee has won out every time. Of course, curiosity ultimately won out... as it always does with the ol' tinkerdwagon. Appropriate flux for the task has been ordered; and I'll have a chance to put my recent Panavise gift to work. You don't need any flux to do the rework; the problem is between the silicon and the organic support(intermediate PCB), not between the intermediate PCB and "main board(graphic card)". If you want to use the hot air gun, you will have to heat up the silicon chip, since the cracked bumps are below the chip, not between the supporting PCB and the graphic card himself. If you want detailed explanation, look up bumpgate on semiaccurate.Thanks for the pointers. I had already done some research on this, including watching some videos of people who do it for a living, with the full automated preheater/reballing/hot air workstation, and the ones I'd seen up to that point evidently either didn't know better or were just doing both to make sure they didn't have to do it again.I studied several different videos, and the takeaway was preheat, bring up to approx 260-300°C for 20-30sec, (depending on the video) then cool down to ~200°C-ish quickly, then the rest of the way over a period of several minutes to prevent thermal shock. I got my stuff together for a "shadetree mechanic" approximation of such a lab, and got to work.Here I'm just starting to preheat; I brought temp up to ~110°C from the bottom with my cheap hot air gun...Then applied heat with both while watching the themometer to bring it up to ~260 for 10 seconds, then 300° for another 10 seconds, then down to 260° for 10 seconds, then pulled the rework gun away till it dropped to ~200°C, then slowly pulled it away over the course of several minutes to ~100°C, then just the bottom gun til it dropped below 50°.After that, I whipped the card together real quick & tried it on the UBCD... it powered up as usual, but after a second or so, the fan went from full speed down to approx 10%, and for the first time I could actually hear the Mac boot chime with this card! w00t! It took 30 seconds or so to boot, as this was off a IDE DVDRW drive; but we did get all the way there. Heartened by this, I popped the disc out ( I finally know what the Mac weenies in Dominion chat meant when they chanted "Six over, three down!!!" from time to time... that's the number of holes under the optical drive to find the right spot to poke the eject button... ) and slid drive sled #1 into its slot. Hall-leh-fukkin'-lu-jeh!!! Signs of life!!! I see a rotten apple on the screen! I let it run for aboot a minute, but progress was quite slow, and I was afraid to let it go any longer until I'd properly serviced the heat-sink, etc. as it was just on there with 4 screws.We'll see how that service goes... I have a .iso for Mint with Cinnamon and Xfce DE, as well as GhostBSD with MATE DE. If the Mac boot disk or the GT8800 don't wanna play nice, I have them on standby. mnem Impressive. Next time I get an IT related problem I’m going to solve it with a flame thrower too
Quote from: Zoli on March 28, 2021, 02:47:58 pmQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 09:13:00 pmQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 02:03:02 pmQuote from: Zoli on March 26, 2021, 06:17:15 amQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 03:21:02 am...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash. I'm pretty sure, like all the nvidias of that age, is hit by bumpgate; maybe try an "oven reflow"?Yeah, I actually had considered this; I've been eyeing my cheap hot-air rework station all morning over coffee. So far, the coffee has won out every time. Of course, curiosity ultimately won out... as it always does with the ol' tinkerdwagon. Appropriate flux for the task has been ordered; and I'll have a chance to put my recent Panavise gift to work. You don't need any flux to do the rework; the problem is between the silicon and the organic support(intermediate PCB), not between the intermediate PCB and "main board(graphic card)". If you want to use the hot air gun, you will have to heat up the silicon chip, since the cracked bumps are below the chip, not between the supporting PCB and the graphic card himself. If you want detailed explanation, look up bumpgate on semiaccurate.Thanks for the pointers. I had already done some research on this, including watching some videos of people who do it for a living, with the full automated preheater/reballing/hot air workstation, and the ones I'd seen up to that point evidently either didn't know better or were just doing both to make sure they didn't have to do it again.I studied several different videos, and the takeaway was preheat, bring up to approx 260-300°C for 20-30sec, (depending on the video) then cool down to ~200°C-ish quickly, then the rest of the way over a period of several minutes to prevent thermal shock. I got my stuff together for a "shadetree mechanic" approximation of such a lab, and got to work.Here I'm just starting to preheat; I brought temp up to ~110°C from the bottom with my cheap hot air gun...Then applied heat with both while watching the themometer to bring it up to ~260 for 10 seconds, then 300° for another 10 seconds, then down to 260° for 10 seconds, then pulled the rework gun away till it dropped to ~200°C, then slowly pulled it away over the course of several minutes to ~100°C, then just the bottom gun til it dropped below 50°.After that, I whipped the card together real quick & tried it on the UBCD... it powered up as usual, but after a second or so, the fan went from full speed down to approx 10%, and for the first time I could actually hear the Mac boot chime with this card! w00t! It took 30 seconds or so to boot, as this was off a IDE DVDRW drive; but we did get all the way there. Heartened by this, I popped the disc out ( I finally know what the Mac weenies in Dominion chat meant when they chanted "Six over, three down!!!" from time to time... that's the number of holes under the optical drive to find the right spot to poke the eject button... ) and slid drive sled #1 into its slot. Hall-leh-fukkin'-lu-jeh!!! Signs of life!!! I see a rotten apple on the screen! I let it run for aboot a minute, but progress was quite slow, and I was afraid to let it go any longer until I'd properly serviced the heat-sink, etc. as it was just on there with 4 screws.We'll see how that service goes... I have a .iso for Mint with Cinnamon and Xfce DE, as well as GhostBSD with MATE DE. If the Mac boot disk or the GT8800 don't wanna play nice, I have them on standby. mnem
Quote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 09:13:00 pmQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 02:03:02 pmQuote from: Zoli on March 26, 2021, 06:17:15 amQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 03:21:02 am...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash. I'm pretty sure, like all the nvidias of that age, is hit by bumpgate; maybe try an "oven reflow"?Yeah, I actually had considered this; I've been eyeing my cheap hot-air rework station all morning over coffee. So far, the coffee has won out every time. Of course, curiosity ultimately won out... as it always does with the ol' tinkerdwagon. Appropriate flux for the task has been ordered; and I'll have a chance to put my recent Panavise gift to work. You don't need any flux to do the rework; the problem is between the silicon and the organic support(intermediate PCB), not between the intermediate PCB and "main board(graphic card)". If you want to use the hot air gun, you will have to heat up the silicon chip, since the cracked bumps are below the chip, not between the supporting PCB and the graphic card himself. If you want detailed explanation, look up bumpgate on semiaccurate.
Quote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 02:03:02 pmQuote from: Zoli on March 26, 2021, 06:17:15 amQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 03:21:02 am...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash. I'm pretty sure, like all the nvidias of that age, is hit by bumpgate; maybe try an "oven reflow"?Yeah, I actually had considered this; I've been eyeing my cheap hot-air rework station all morning over coffee. So far, the coffee has won out every time. Of course, curiosity ultimately won out... as it always does with the ol' tinkerdwagon. Appropriate flux for the task has been ordered; and I'll have a chance to put my recent Panavise gift to work.
Quote from: Zoli on March 26, 2021, 06:17:15 amQuote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 03:21:02 am...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash. I'm pretty sure, like all the nvidias of that age, is hit by bumpgate; maybe try an "oven reflow"?Yeah, I actually had considered this; I've been eyeing my cheap hot-air rework station all morning over coffee. So far, the coffee has won out every time.
Quote from: mnementh on March 26, 2021, 03:21:02 am...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash. I'm pretty sure, like all the nvidias of that age, is hit by bumpgate; maybe try an "oven reflow"?
...Unfortunately, the list of supported GPUs is pretty short. And surprise, surprise, surprise... only GPUs flashed with a Mac-specific FW will have the preboot splash.
I gave KiCad another try some time ago. I can see how it could work out, but I'd have to invest too much time to get to the same level as Altium. I have my licence so right not there's no incentive to switch.Also: Anyone know what these connectors are?