Test Equipment Anonymous (TEA) group therapy thread

[Martin.M]

3a.) the current limiter of the NGPE was set to 1A
3b.) power...

result: a short peak, then no current.
power OFF, connect cables to 8500A: R
result: not 10 Ohm, 166M

remove all cables, insert 7441,
8300A RUN
result:
allredy working 

this is what a Dr. called burn out 

[VK5RC]

Great results, was there a little '? carbon' tracer between anode/cathode?

Some 'real' HP pron below. HP 8901A modulation analyzer.
I am still on the Rifa/Schaffner hunt! With all this weight lifting I won't need to go to the gym.
Rob

[Martin.M]

I think it was behind the number gates 6 and 7 in one of the nixies.
It will be a very bad day to remove them all, they are parallel wired for multiplex, so you cannot identifiy the nixie with the problem.
Of coarse they are solded on the board, and they have plastik isolator feets, so it is not possible to connect their wires with a probe.

[FransW]

The story suggests bad engineering practice.
I would re-engineer the board.
Buying another one seems too expensive.

[Martin.M]

[xrunner]

That's the bed I'm using, with ugly clips. The surface is not completely smooth but that does not bother me. If you need it smooth, add 0.2mm and sand it off



Currently using the bed now. Guess the space ship. Winner gets bugger all

Same bed here works great. I'm using different clips. They are used to hold the glass in a picture frame to a picture and backer. I like them because they are a lot lower profile above the bed.

[bd139]

Good idea. I have a couple of unused clip frames lying around. Might try that. The first time I used the ender I had a extruder crash into one as I didn't know where to attach them 

[PA0PBZ]

So one week after the 2230 Rifa  disaster my 2430 decided to do the same 
Luckily I was a bit faster switching the thing off so no capacitor foil all over the place, just the smell 
Looks like another nice teardown to get to the pcb to replace the cap 

(Attachment Link)

Replace by same make?

I don't see why not, the meter is about 20 years old so its about time for it to fail especially if its been one of these meters that left on for hour after hour.

Sorry, did I mention I was talking about Tek scopes? Replaced the one in the 2230 with a nice blue X2 one I found in a dismantled induction cooker, and there's more of the same in there so the 2 in the 2430 will be replaced with the same, but first I have to find out how to get in there 

[Martin.M]

20µV    I need a calibrator 

[Saskia]

for those on this side of the pond who just want a 3D printer which works out of the box (albeit with a small print bed,
Reichelt has an FDM printer for 99.95 which is not too shabby.

https://www.reichelt.de/3d-drucker-monoprice-mp-select-mini-schwarz-mp-134620-bf-p266731.html?trstct=lp_2173_154578&&r=1

[notfaded1]

I've got two of these 8300A's as well Martin... I love nixie tubes and counters and MM with them.  The biggest issues I have with these are the buttons... they really get sticky and can break and pop out.  It's in here:  https://doc.xdevs.com/doc/Fluke/Fluke_Catalog_1974.pdf

Regards,

Bill

[BU508A]

20µV    I need a calibrator 

What if the Weston Cell has 1.01312V? 
Nice meter that Fluke 8300 

[Sam Spastic]

What if the Weston Cell has 1.01312V? 
Nice meter that Fluke 8300 

How old is the Weston Cell?  Is it portable? Are you using a potentiometer to measure it? DMMs will draw too much current. Mine read 1.017335 and 1.01761.  Have not figured how to read the one in the Leeds & Northrup, and it is at the extreme end of calibration adjustment.(1950's era)

[Martin.M]

that (external)  Weston is too much old and out of spec, but useful for comparements. 8300A have no Weston inside.
I have more then one of them. A Weston what is allready will deliver 1,0865V @ 20°C
the comparement here was the 8500A what you see on the picture, they are parallel.

Hello Bill,
you can fix the buttons with glue, the board can be removed without removing the buttons, so they can be fixed.

[tggzzz]

that Weston is too much old and out of spec, but useful for comparements.

It is also likely to be lower noise than a zener based reference, and hence better for measuring the DMM's reference's noise.

[Martin.M]

I have some nos LTZ1000 in stock,
when the time has come I will remove the junk from a bad Weston case and build from that a reference Box 
But I am still learning, electronics is not my job. The build of a reference is not so easy, the best is to read the complete METROLOGY part of eev before start building one

the most used Nixie here is the Hickok Digitalsystem, with capacitors plugin. see https://www.wellenkino.de/video/hickok.mp4

[bd139]

Ramco goodies alert: https://auctions.ramco.uk/auctions/7316/ramco-10194

[Sam Spastic]

that (external)  Weston is too much old and out of spec, but useful for comparements. 8300A have no Weston inside.
I have more then one of them. A Weston what is allready will deliver 1,0865V @ 20°C
the comparement here was the 8500A what you see on the picture, they are parallel.

Hello Bill,
you can fix the buttons with glue, the board can be removed without removing the buttons, so they can be fixed.

I know you meant 1.01865V. I am not a voltnut. I am not a voltnut. I am not a voltnut. I have 2 HP3466 DMMs and average the readings!

[BU508A]

I have some nos LTZ1000 in stock,
when the time has come I will remove the junk from a bad Weston case and build from that a reference Box 
But I am still learning, electronics is not my job. The build of a reference is not so easy, the best is to read the complete METROLOGY part of eev before start building one

the most used Nixie here is the Hickok Digitalsystem, with capacitors plugin. see https://www.wellenkino.de/video/hickok.mp4

If you want to build a LTZ1000A reference, I can recommend the design of Dr. Frank.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/mx-reference/msg1297126/#msg1297126

Forum fellow cellularmitosis did a layout with Kicad and uploaded it for convenience to oshpark.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/ultra-precision-reference-ltz1000/msg1376260/#msg1376260

Hope that helps. Enjoy and have fun.

[BU508A]

Ramco goodies alert: https://auctions.ramco.uk/auctions/7316/ramco-10194

[bd139]

Hahaha

Random question for the 3d printing lot on here. How do I cut a butcher a large STL into bits to print? I've got something relatively complex I want to print in several detail sections. In fact I might have to do 40+ individual prints to get the detail I need for this.

[tggzzz]

Ramco goodies alert: https://auctions.ramco.uk/auctions/7316/ramco-10194

At least Ramco are better than the equipnet turkeys; I still haven't got full info from them as to when/where stuff can be collected.

[mnementh]

The loss of life back then was a wake up but a lot of the idiots (and some new ones) went and rebuilt in the same manner back in the same valley's and same old growth timber  Some random houses were spared in spite of nearby trees while others more open burned so don't believe all the BS about clear felling to save property the building design and just dumb luck plays a larger part.

Yeah well if history repeats itself which is very likely in Oz  and that house remains unburned again you'd hope officialdom might take note but as they are now infiltrated with young generation know it alls that might not be the case. 

Even when ready to move the ambient heat and the wind effectively turns the eucalyptus oils into napalm so the fire front and embers made it advance at 100+km/hr in those conditions and some of the big grass fires out here were as bad or worse and caught some out. 

That's the scary bit when fires get so big they make their own weather and unless you Ozzies get a fleet of 747 fire dusters the future looks grim. 

A large fire can do crazy shit with local materials. When I was with the VFD in my home town, the grain mill in the next town caught fire. We sent backup support, but within an hour, we had to call them back to fight a whole line of brushfires ignited by burlap sacks and unbuilt flat cardboard boxes that had been carried on the wind for more than 15 kilometers. We won't talk about powder explosions in the upper half of the flourmill and the BLEVEs from cardboard barrels of molasses; that was what made the local news rehash for weeks afterwards. 

There was one firefighter lost a full set of turnout gear to molasses contamination but was unharmed; the forkift he ducked behind did NOT fare as well. The sugary vapor & burning liquid got into everything, ultimately starting a fire in the contactor cage that took out all the control electronics and batteries.   

mnem

[Saskia]

ouch.

Got a parcel today.
Content:
The Art of Electronics 3rd edition
Learning the Art of Electronics
Make: FPGAs
some PCB adapter boards from SMD to Breakout (everything up to 85 pin QFP)
some jumper wires

[mnementh]

   I have the same one, but I added a 3M magnetic sheet to the underside so that I don't need those ugly clips sticking out all over the place. The upper surface has some sort of micro-dotson the surface to help the models stick, so the under side of the model isn't all that smooth. It can be very difficult to remove models that have a large base, so for those I go back to using the flexible pad, because you can peel the pad from the model.

McBryce.

That's what I like about the mirror tiles; parts come off all by themselves as it cools, even with hairspray. And at $10/dozen, you can afford to set two or three items aside to cool. There are holder brackets on Thingiverse for all the most popular models of printer which you can print to keep the tiles in place without clips; some even incorporate a strain-relief or drag chain for the bed cabling.

mnem
*full of roast chickennnnn...* ZZZzzzZZzzzzZZZzzz...