Any more in-depth info on the YR1035+ battery tester / milliohm meter?

[Rooster Cogburn]

I just got my YR1035+ battery tester today. Seems to work fine. I primarily got it for measuring LiIon batteries but it seems it makes for a competent milliohm meter in general. I tried to use it for short finding and it can reliably find the shorted component between a number of parallel resistors. There are apparently some more advanced options and features but I can't really find a good manual. They all seem to be poorly translated and there are some differences between units. I assume mine is a clone since the 'YAOREA' name is absent from the front panel. Says version 2.2206 on startup.

Specifically, I'd be interested in the following:

- In one of the manuals I've found it says holding the HOLD key activates relative measurement. My unit doesn't seem to do that?
- I've seen some pictures with 'ZR' displayed under the measurement range indicators and some AE descriptions referencing 'ZR mode' and having it enabled by default. What is it and how do I turn it on?
- Menu option 7 & 8, calibration & factory reset seem to be disabled on my unit? I've read that some manufacturers do that. I don't think my unit needs calibration right now, but is there anything I can do to re-enable those?
- Menu option 9 has a sub-menu with two options 'BU' (set to 'OFF') and 'CR' (set to '7'). What are those?
- How safe is it to use this as a milliohm meter in a circuit? Like, what kind of voltage / current ranges am I exposing the circuit to?

Please let me know if you can answer any of these questions or have a better manual etc., thanks!

[RAPo]

Does this link help?

[DaneLaw]

search the forum it's been debated before.

[Rooster Cogburn]

Does this link help?

Seen that before, doesn't answer any of my questions

search the forum it's been debated before.

I did, nothing shows up.


One issue is that the YR1030/YR1035/YR2050/RC3563 and their various clones/off-brand units all seem to be kind of the same thing yet slightly different

[Phil1977]

I have a RC3563 and like it quite much.

The biggest issue with these 4-wire-meters is that they do not do a plausibility check of the 4W-connection. A keysight benchtop DMM displays no reading when one of the 4 wires is not connected, but the RC3563 often displays instable or inplausibly low or high values in that case. I don't want to complain due to the fact that you can get around 100 instruments of one type for the other, but it´s good to know that there is a cause for false readings.

Due to the same reason I build some pseudo-4W-test-leads where the L- and U-lines are both soldered to a short and sharp test needle. That way the contact resistance is of course not compensated, but for quick comparison of many parts it´s more reliable - and you can always fall back to the true 4W-leads if doubts arise.

Beside that it´s a really versatile tool. Not only for batteries but e.g. also for in-circuit test of capacitors or as a milliohm-meter for plugs or switches.

[Rooster Cogburn]

The biggest issue with these 4-wire-meters is that they do not do a plausibility check of the 4W-connection.

Immediately noticed that, at least it's common among this family of devices.

Due to the same reason I build some pseudo-4W-test-leads where the L- and U-lines are both soldered to a short and sharp test needle. That way the contact resistance is of course not compensated, but for quick comparison of many parts it´s more reliable - and you can always fall back to the true 4W-leads if doubts arise.

I thought about that as well, still have some DIY DMM probes lying around I could use for that. But wouldn't that effectively only eliminate the resistance of the leads from the equation? I'd assume contact resistance is the far bigger issue. When trying to use this meter in-circuit I noticed the dual tipped probes are too far apart to ever make contact with SMD parts. Maybe I should try ordering a clamp lead for it?

Beside that it´s a really versatile tool. Not only for batteries but e.g. also for in-circuit test of capacitors or as a milliohm-meter for plugs or switches.

Ahh, yes, it used AC for resistance measurements, right? I already have an in-circuit ESR meter, was more thinking about using it for short finding. In a quick test I setup it was perfectly able to indentify which of the several resistors was the 0-Ohm one, so it should work.

I'll have to measure the current flow with my clamp meter but the open line voltage was already quite high. I'd be a bit afraid I'd fry something when doing measurements.

[thm_w]

It looks like the unloaded voltage is quite high (5V), so could damage some sensitive circuits. But probably anything consumer level should be OK. The current level is very low (~1mA).
https://lygte-info.dk/review/InternalResistanceMeterYR1035%20UK.html

[Rooster Cogburn]

It looks like the unloaded voltage is quite high (5V), so could damage some sensitive circuits. But probably anything consumer level should be OK. The current level is very low (~1mA).
https://lygte-info.dk/review/InternalResistanceMeterYR1035%20UK.html

Yes, the open line voltage is high :/ Question is how quick it adjusts. For instance you can have a current limited PSU but still zap LEDs because of the smoothing cap on the output. It will current limit, but not until the LED is fried. Ideally it would have a voltage low enough so it doesn't even activate most semiconductors. I've seen the page you linked before but I think I'll need to do my own measurements with my scope and clamp meter just because there are so many versions of this thing. Even if the one in the link seems safe, who knows what my 3rd iteration knock-off version does.

[DaneLaw]

search the forum it's been debated before.

I did, nothing shows up.
One issue is that the YR1030/YR1035/YR2050/RC3563 and their various clones/off-brand units all seem to be kind of the same thing yet slightly different

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/yr2050-milliohm-meter-high-precision-handheld-dc/
*thread for the other models also.. also recall I highlighted the differences between the different models of 1030/1035 branded vs non-branded and the difference in menu & tolerances/counts..(#35)

[Rooster Cogburn]

search the forum it's been debated before.

I did, nothing shows up.
One issue is that the YR1030/YR1035/YR2050/RC3563 and their various clones/off-brand units all seem to be kind of the same thing yet slightly different

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/yr2050-milliohm-meter-high-precision-handheld-dc/
*thread for the other models also.. also recall I highlighted the differences between the different models of 1030/1035 branded vs non-branded and the difference in menu & tolerances/counts..(#35)

I've seen that but that's a totally different model, just look at the physical / on-screen UI, menus etc., only mentions the 1035+ tangentially, doesn't really answer any of my questions

[Phil1977]

Due to the same reason I build some pseudo-4W-test-leads where the L- and U-lines are both soldered to a short and sharp test needle. That way the contact resistance is of course not compensated, but for quick comparison of many parts it´s more reliable - and you can always fall back to the true 4W-leads if doubts arise.

I thought about that as well, still have some DIY DMM probes lying around I could use for that. But wouldn't that effectively only eliminate the resistance of the leads from the equation? I'd assume contact resistance is the far bigger issue. When trying to use this meter in-circuit I noticed the dual tipped probes are too far apart to ever make contact with SMD parts. Maybe I should try ordering a clamp lead for it?

I´d build clamp leads for it. The quality you get if u build test leads yourself is so much better than everything you can get in the price class of these instruments.

Of course you´re right, you only compensate the test leads, but this means you can use thin and flexible test leads and cheap connectors all the way - that´s already a big advantage and - on the other hand - the contact resistance variation is quite low in most cases you use it on battery terminals or PCBs. So it´s absolutely okay to compare values, e.g. to find a short.

Ahh, yes, it used AC for resistance measurements, right? I already have an in-circuit ESR meter, was more thinking about using it for short finding. In a quick test I setup it was perfectly able to indentify which of the several resistors was the 0-Ohm one, so it should work.

I'll have to measure the current flow with my clamp meter but the open line voltage was already quite high. I'd be a bit afraid I'd fry something when doing measurements.

Yes, it uses 1kHz AC - else you couldn't measure a charged battery. Nice side effect is you technically can measure also charged capacitors in circuit.

My unit uses around 1V RMS with open load and the following short circuit currents (measured with shunt resistor + scope)
20mOhm range: 46mA RMS
200mOhm and 2 Ohm range: 5mA RMS
20Ohm and larger: 0.5mA RMS

That means the maximum power dissipation in the DUT is 2 Ohm * (5mA)^2 = 0.05mW. While ranges are switched 50mW may be possible. That´s from my point of view very safe to work on power components (at least safe to the components  )

Attached is a pic of the DIY-testleads. Costs are <10€, they´re not beautiful but they´re really versatile and more reliable than the pogo-pin ones out of the package. The DuPont-plugs in the middle can also be used to directly measure into groundplanes if any connector has two GND-pins next to each other.

[pcprogrammer]

Seen that before, doesn't answer any of my questions

Well it did shed light on the CR setting. It is the contrast ratio of the display and on low settings it gets less readable.

The Bu I don't fully get. It is some buffer function that might be needed when measuring on battery packs with a voltage higher than 30V to avoid sparks?

I own one too and same as yours does not have options 7 and 8 filled in.

To see what kind of voltages it uses you could hook it up to an oscilloscope while measuring a battery.

[Rooster Cogburn]

I´d build clamp leads for it. The quality you get if u build test leads yourself is so much better than everything you can get in the price class of these instruments.

Of course you´re right, you only compensate the test leads, but this means you can use thin and flexible test leads and cheap connectors all the way - that´s already a big advantage and - on the other hand - the contact resistance variation is quite low in most cases you use it on battery terminals or PCBs. So it´s absolutely okay to compare values, e.g. to find a short.

Alright, might give that a shot. Got all the parts, just need to source that strange 4-pin barrel connector. I believe that is called an 'aviation connector'?

Yes, it uses 1kHz AC - else you couldn't measure a charged battery. Nice side effect is you technically can measure also charged capacitors in circuit.

When I read elsewhere it uses AC it immediately made sense, was already wondering how they measure the resistance on a live battery. I have a Peak ESR70+ in-circuit ESR meter with automatic discharging, curious to see how they compare!

My unit uses around 1V RMS with open load and the following short circuit currents (measured with shunt resistor + scope)
20mOhm range: 46mA RMS
200mOhm and 2 Ohm range: 5mA RMS
20Ohm and larger: 0.5mA RMS

That means the maximum power dissipation in the DUT is 2 Ohm * (5mA)^2 = 0.05mW. While ranges are switched 50mW may be possible. That´s from my point of view very safe to work on power components (at least safe to the components  )

Sounds good. I'll use my scope & clamp meter and see how mine looks.

Attached is a pic of the DIY-testleads. Costs are <10€, they´re not beautiful but they´re really versatile and more reliable than the pogo-pin ones out of the package. The DuPont-plugs in the middle can also be used to directly measure into groundplanes if any connector has two GND-pins next to each other.

Those look very nice, like the DuPont connector to make the probes / clamps swappable. I wish the pogo pins in the original leads were maybe angled towards each other so you could hit SMD parts and small PCB probe points.

Seen that before, doesn't answer any of my questions

Well it did shed light on the CR setting. It is the contrast ratio of the display and on low settings it gets less readable.

The Bu I don't fully get. It is some buffer function that might be needed when measuring on battery packs with a voltage higher than 30V to avoid sparks?

I own one too and same as yours does not have options 7 and 8 filled in.

To see what kind of voltages it uses you could hook it up to an oscilloscope while measuring a battery.

Oh, totally missed that, why isn't that just next to the Backlight settings, so weird. I didn't get the sparks thing about the BU setting. I'll use my scope & clamp meter when I got some time, until then it's just measuring batteries!

[Phil1977]

Alright, might give that a shot. Got all the parts, just need to source that strange 4-pin barrel connector. I believe that is called an 'aviation connector'?

It´s a GX16-4 connector. You can find the pin-out and a lot more of info on the following page:

https://github.com/ludwich66/RC3563/wiki

[Rooster Cogburn]

Great, thanks!

What's your take on RC3563 vs YR1035+? I didn't research that too much, just saw a good deal on the 1035 and bought it mostly with the intention of using it to check my LiIon batteries.

[pcprogrammer]

Great, thanks!

What's your take on RC3563 vs YR1035+? I didn't research that too much, just saw a good deal on the 1035 and bought it mostly with the intention of using it to check my LiIon batteries.

 

I did more or less the same. For what I could find the two do not differ that much in performance, and it was a bit cheaper. Also just bought it to measure liion batteries. Out of curiosity I also bought a Liitokala Lii-500 but the internal resistance measurement of the one I got is way of. Reports ~25mOhm for several batteries the YR1035 shows ~70mOhms for. 

I checked the YR1035 with a resistor I know the value of, based on other measurements, and it seems to be correct. (~120mOhms)

But the Lii-500 can charge the batteries, where the YR1035 can't. 

[Rooster Cogburn]

Good to hear. I'm quite happy with my purchase. The measurements for my batteries all seem to line up with what is stated in reviews, so at the very least that seems to work. Looks like I also got a real neat milliohm / ESR meter for free, just need to figure out the probe situation and do some voltage / current measurements.

I don't think the internal resistance values out of any charger are going to be terribly useful. In my experience with a DMM measurements <1Ohm are not very reliable. If you got a 4 1/2 digits meter with nice sharp gold tipped probes and compensate for lead resistance maybe 0.1Ohm. But battery resistance is like <0.05Ohm, I don't see how any charger can measure that reliably with a 2-wire setup.

[pcprogrammer]

If you look on youtube how people measure the internal resistance it is by loading the battery with a known resistance and then check the voltage drop when connected. Based on the known resistance the current can be calculated and with that the internal resistance of the battery. Only this is not the most accurate due to the discharge curve of a battery not being linear. That is why the YR1035 used AC to do the measurements.

No idea how the Lii-500 does it's measurement. I also have a DL24 electronic load that calculates the internal resistance. It is not that great either, but with the aforementioned batteries it was closer to the YR1035's reading on start of discharge, but reads higher values near the end of the discharge.

For matching batteries I will be using the YR1035 for the internal resistance aspect for sure. The capacity I can determine with either the Lii-500 or the DL24. Still have to compare the two though. Just got the tools a couple of weeks ago.

[Rooster Cogburn]

Thanks for the explanation, that makes a lot of sense. I was wondering how they could possibly measure resistances of a few milliohm otherwise.