What are people’s views on the best way to protect yourself.
I have a large isolation transformer, large variac and bulb current limiter.
What order?
Which devices?
I work on guitar amps and currently messing with valve amps. My current protection method involves discharging caps and attaching leads etc before turning the device on. Sometimes checking things with the power on is useful. It would also be helpful to protect the device as well.
What are people’s views? At the most the isolation transformer goes into the bulb limited and I have just bought a job lot of variacs.
Valve audio amplifiers will normally use a built-in power transformer.
The only circuitry on the primary side of such a transformer are the incoming Active, Neutral, & Earth wires, an On/Off switch, a fuse, & perhaps a Mains filter.
There is not much there that needs to be probed with an Oscilloscope, & a DMM will pretty much tell you all you need to know about the primary circuit.
On the secondary side, isolated from the Mains you will find the High voltage & heater windings.
Classic transformer power supples use a centre-tapped high voltage secondary, & a "Fullwave rectifier"circuit.
https://www.google.com.au/search?source=hp&ei=1aizXZTxHZnZz7sP46uU0Ao&q=full+wave+rectifier&oq=full+wave&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.1.0.0l8.2516.5907..8088...0.0..0.285.2271.2-9......0....1.......0..0i131j46j46i275j0i7i30.WtjN4zEIBl8#imgrc=CUBL-vAcbmvdzM:Here is somewhere you can probe, but two things come to mind.
(1) Your probe needs to be rated for the voltages you are probing.
Tektronix x10 probes are usually adequately rated, but "El Cheapos" may not be.
I find the best probes to use for valve stuff are the big old "clunky" ones that Tek supplied with their old 500series CROs.
A x100 probe would be nice but it is not really essential.
(2) Don't try to hang your 'scope across the entire high voltage secondary, as you will short out half the winding (note how the centre tap in the drawing I linked goes to common, which is, in this case, the amplifier chassis.)
Your probe and/or 'scope will suffer, the transformer will get"red in the face", & the fuse will probably blow.
You are unlikey to suffer anything other than being dazzled by the spark.
D1 & D2 in the drawing may be solid state, or they may be valve rectifiers.
In the case of the latter, there is "trap for young players"
Some larger or older valve rectifiers have directly heated cathodes, so require a separate better insulated winding ( almost always 5 volts).
This winding will be floating at the DC HT voltage, so
don't touch!.
Also, don't try to measure across the winding.
All the rest of the amplifier circuitry will be referenced to Earth , or Common, most likely the ampifier chassis.
After all this someone will probably pipe up that their Great Uncle found a transformerless audio amplifier in a hayshed in deepest Hampshire, but such things are as rare as hen's teeth!
For good reason, too!
Amplifiers, unlike domestic radios, where with a transformerless design, all the " bities"cab be corralled up inside the cabinet, an amplifier is messy!
It has wires leading all over the place, such as audio inputs & speaker leads.