...It seems like you have some idolism with Fluke, and let me tell you that's not good.
...Surely Fluke doesn't have a good competitor for now, but if UniT rolls an UT181 with pimped up input protection,
or KS rolls an U1272 without firmware bugs, there will not be too many reasons to buy an F289 anymore.
Before I feebly defend any incinuation of Fluke idolism (lol)
I'd like to state there won't be any Uni-Turd or buggy halfassed eye candy Agisight or Keylent in my humble inventory any time soon
or Windows 10 PC or High Sierra Mac TBH it sux that member
blueskull got shafted on two big dollar meters
![ThumbsDown :--](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/icon_thumbsdown.gif.pagespeed.ce.D027Y9gZ7m.gif)
but up to him to kick up a big stink
![Rant :rant:](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/rant.gif.pagespeed.ce.koOB_HE-VX.gif)
and get them to repair or replace said items,
or a compromise 'out of warranty' price,
or he can offer the refusers a filmed Youtube video of the issues and or possible dangers...
and you never can tell what content will pop up from Youtube commentors.. who in their frustration may post -overpriced dud product- videos too
That said, may I state unbiased that anything outside of Fluke 289
~normal~ behaviour may be an indication of time for a calibration, possibly from component drift perhaps,
who knows where the parts are sourced from much less batch quality checked nowadays
Get a calibration preferably done at a professional and reputable facility that know what they are doing and have strong service ties with Fluke in case you need a board swap
to replace the Friday afternoon assembly line 'Revision' and don't charge what a new meter would cost
Avoid the pretty Cal sticker
![Kiss :-*](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/xkiss.gif.pagespeed.ic.GPxlZ4Pi0A.png)
slapping cash grab turkeys, who prey on the easy clueless corporats
FWIW I bought my 289 used and abused, and after opening it up and doing all the TLC stuff described earlier above, it works like a new boxed one,
unbelievably still running with the no name cheapo batteries it came with
That's another point too, if having issues check the batteries individually under load or try another set,
and make sure they are secure in their slots with no play in the space between the meter's back
A soft piece of cut foam or similar used as a packer will keep them where they need to be, especially if the meter gets knocked or bumped
This applies to any meter with AA or AAA batteries for that matter,
the last thing you need is the suckers slightly popping out and sort of drifting between 4.5 and 6 volts with a 4 x AA set
especially in resistance, nS, diode and capacitor modes