It’s not a Pace iron, the TS100 is based on the newer direct drive tips, similar to the Hakko T12’s. The temp on the iron handle is supposedly accurate to a few degrees Fahrenheit.
The other option is that the TS100 is just another piece of Chinese finest craftmanship...... ![Wink ;)](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/xwink.gif.pagespeed.ic.cldandycH0.png)
Thanks, that’s very helpful!
Can I ask why your trying to measure the temp?
So I’m assuming your trying to measure this tip temp because it’s not working as you expect it should? I’ve done some feaserch in this iron lately, this is what I know that could help you.
Considering the TS100 iron that doesn’t come with a power supply the biggest issue people seem to experience with them is not using the correct power supply. A weaker supply may not be able to hold the temp accurately with big ground planes. What I know is the TS-100 recommends 40 Watts power supply as being ample enough to drive it for most people and because it’s a common laptop power supply like most at 19V, 2.1 amps.
The manual states it can run the voltage range of 12VDC to 24VDC. But it will use up to 65 watts of power. Some videos focus on the voltage, but it’s about the total power and wattage that the TS-100 will function differently for people.
If your trying to run it with a hobby RC LiPo battery then you want to focus on the constant amperage the cells are rated to discharge at. Since it can drain up to 65 Watts of power, you want the batter to be able to provide at least 65 Watts total constant power or you may damage the cell by over discharging them to fast when the ts-100 first start up to heat up the tip. A third part firmware has a setting for this so you can tell the iron what battery your using for a 1S, 2S, 3S cells, this also monitors the voltage of the lack so you don’t over discharge the cells.
I think it might even have a setting for different resistance tips, but don’t quote me on this since I don’t own one and have not tried one. I have to assume it changes the duty cycle to the mosfets for other tips at a different resistance so the mosfets don’t overheat? Not sure, since I didn’t program the open source firmware, but I know a lot of people that say it’s has a lot more features and works much better then the stock firmware.
Firmware:
https://github.com/Ralim/ts100The tips are like the Hakko T12/T15, but they might be a different resistance. I sent know, since I don’t own one. The amount of copper in the tip, the wire used for the heating element and other things can be different. One thing I know is different is the resistance of the heating element between the TS-100 tips and the Hakko Tips (and maybe others tips also).
If they are a different resistance then I wouldn’t use Hakko tips even with the 3D printed adapter that some recommend. The Hakko tips are 8 Ohms, using the wrong tips or aftermarket tips with a different resistance will damage the mosfets.
If yours is new, I would be curious to see what you measure the TS100 tips at?
You can check the tips resistance like in this this video.
https://youtu.be/dYjMsuih01A?t=10m6sI’ve done a few solder iron measuring with a DMM a long time ago, it takes patients as you see in the clock time passing in Joes video to reach temp. The drop of solder helps with the heat thermal transfer from the tip. Unlike Joe, at the time I was new to the hobby and wasn’t smart enough to hold the iron steady by resting it on an aluminum block and being patient. I was looking for more of an instant reading. It’s a lot more difficult hand held like Big Clive and I both tried. I did it, but experienced the same issue Clive had with random readings until you find that perfect spot and have steady hands.
It can be done easier with something like a fake FG-100. I don’t support fake forgery products, but I don’t judge either and the cost of some items like a real FG-100 can be to expensive and over kill for the hobby that doesn’t need perfect scientific accuracy. These are both fake with different circuit boards inside and they worked fine. Not scientific exact 0.025% accuracy and tolerance fine, more like a “Good enough” fine and faster then using a DMM.
https://youtu.be/gEeaWQLXYoM?t=8m28sThe sensors only last a few uses according to the Hakko official manual. If you use a flux infused wick to clean the solder off the sensor pad before storing it they should last longer. If you decide to use a fake FG-100 I would recommend getting authentic sensors. They seem to last longer then the fake sensors, and a few of the fake ones were defective. Something like these from an authorized Hakko dealer:
https://www.tequipment.net/Hakko191-212.html?rrec=true