Well, one I took to send to the seller. Note the missing MCX and the dodgy looking MACT button. When I upturned the board the top fell off and the contact spring vanished
![Rant :rant:](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/rant.gif)
![](http://i.imgur.com/Eb1v00q.jpg)
The seller is telling me I could solder the socket with a normal iron "as its only 4 pins". I asked him how he would solder the 5th centre pin with an iron? hahaha. It's besides the point as it was advertised as working. Basically I've asked for a full refund or for him to send me a replacement. I've offered to return this at his cost of tracked delivery (£47), I somehow don't think he will want it back.
Nevertheless, I persisted with trying to get somewhere with it in the meantime. I found any voltage I applied to the 10A fuse (3.3V - 12V) would clamp my Rigol PSU at something around 3.3-4V. I had current limiting set to 2A but it would peak at about 1.6A. Ringing noise coming from the DC/DC converter and no indicator LEDs. The OCXO would get pretty toasty. There are various test points on board, 1.2V, 3.3V good, 5V was bad - less than 4V. A PWR test point going to the OCXO was around 8-9V even with only 5-6V supply. Another test point VREF is in the 4-5V range.
I found that not using the main power but the BT (battery?) connection on the 4 pin DBG (rx/tx) header with 5V flicked the board into life. Combining 2 supplies, 5V at BT and 6V for power in the ringing would stop when the OCXO got really hot and then would stop heating as the current dropped from 1.5A to 300mA or so. I can connect using serial OK and plenty of commands to play with. Looking at the diagnostic log this device was previously installed somewhere north of Tokyo back in 2014
![Wink ;)](https://www.eevblog.com/forum/Smileys/default/xwink.gif.pagespeed.ic.cldandycH0.png)
When the DC/DC converter settled down I found I could remove the 5V BT supply and it would remain running. So I've been playing with the serial commands for now.