Open-T12-Soldering-Station released

[clytle374]

Face plate definitely.  But it’s more than just firmware. You included jumpers to use differing sensors etc and have done a heap of PCB layout that is an art in itself.  Don’t under sell your efforts.

Looking forward to it. Well done

Cheers

Thanks, I actually like PCB layout.  I actually enjoyed the project.  But the best hardware is worthless without good code.  Sadly I only write bad code 
I got the first windows machined last night, and the knobs came today.  I found a guy that is building a whole pile of PCBs for kits over the next month and I've sent him unit #0 for torture testing. 

I forked and manually downgraded the KiCad project to 8.0 (8.0.3) here:

https://github.com/hevanaa/Open-T12-Soldering-Station

Note. Downgrading a kicad project isn't a supported operation, so results cannot be guaranteed. Works for me (TM). No warranty etc.

Thanks again.  I added a link to it in the issue about it being developed with a development version of kicad.  Also passed on the warning that it threw some errors in the conversion.  Let me know if it gets to a verified state and I'll make note of it. 

I'm not going through the process of verifying it myself, sounds like torture.  I know these things ended up too expensive.  I figure there will be a dozen variations on aliexpress before long.  Most likely with cheap opamps, resistors that drift, fake processors, ect.  If I recover most of what I put in it I'll be happy. I really doubt I'll make another run.  Sourcing the parts was a nightmare. 

[wasyoungonce]

ok tried edit of files...didn't work except schematic so downloaded ver 8.99 and forked files to my Github desktop ....all opened ok....looks great so far.   I'm a newbie on KiCad (too many years on Eagle) forced to now change.

Boy I have a whole lota learning to do.......sigh!

Many thanks ....ahh just saw Johan converted all to ver 8.0!  Well done

[clytle374]

ok tried edit of files...didn't work except schematic so downloaded ver 8.99 and forked files to my Github desktop ....all opened ok....looks great so far.   I'm a newbie on KiCad (too many years on Eagle) forced to now change.

Boy I have a whole lota learning to do.......sigh!

Many thanks ....ahh just saw Johan converted all to ver 8.0!  Well done

Luckily being hard core open source I learned both Kicad and Freecad back when it was a pretty ugly process.  People think i'm just cheap, but I have a $125 Kicad shirt, lol. It was the donation threshold to get the shirt. 

[wasyoungonce]

Luckily being hard core open source I learned both Kicad and Freecad back ......

Yep I like freecad been using it for a few years...Just wish I had a small lathe and mill, but i'd probably need another life time to get good at using them.  I did way back as trainee Avionics tech we did lathe and milling, even blacksmith (made the ubiquitous chisel) ....all that is now out of course curriculum.

[clytle374]

Added links to Tindie for premade parts.

[wasyoungonce]

looking but cannot see.   Got a link?  Ta

edit found them:
https://www.tindie.com/products/clytle374/open-t12-soldering-station-board-only-globalship/
https://www.tindie.com/products/clytle374/open-t12-soldering-station/

urrrggghh doesn't ship to Arsetralia!

[clytle374]

Still trying to figure all that out.  EU looks a bit crazy, but Australia might not be bad.

You want the board with a faceplate?  Or the thing assembled? 

Thought maybe I should offer the encoder, display, and connector too.  What do you think?

   

[wasyoungonce]

Add encoder and display.   I buy generally from Digikey or E14 but they wont have the display, but probably the encoder.   Otherwise have to buy from aliexpress

Qty Two boards with face plate and "displays and encoders" if possible   (if not I can get these Aliexpress)  as that will be about at least $100Aud plus post (+$$) for two...quite happy with that

EU is dreadful...VAT etc.  Australia....meh customs don't inspect them.



 

[clytle374]

Add encoder and display.   I buy generally from Digikey or E14 but they wont have the display, but probably the encoder.   Otherwise have to buy from aliexpress

Qty Two boards with face plate and "displays and encoders" if possible   (if not I can get these Aliexpress)  as that will be about at least $100Aud plus post (+$$) for two...quite happy with that

EU is dreadful...VAT etc.  Australia....meh customs don't inspect them.
 

I sent you a PM!

You have any knowledge on cheapest shipping rates from the USA to Australia?

The displays I have require bending the pins like in the picture to align the window and display.  I'll update Tendie to add those options in just a bit, as soon as I figure out shipping to Australia.   

[clytle374]

Bought a couple battery adapters for power tools.  2 each for Dewalt and Milwaukee.  Found out the only difference is the color of them.  Designed and 3D printed some housing to replace half the shell of them.  I'll put it up on git hub in a few days

[Jidis]

Just wish I had a small lathe and mill, but i'd probably need another life time to get good at using them.

I'm impressed that you have the foresight to know that before even getting them, but I guess having used real ones helped there. I've had the pair here for years and while they do come in handy, I still: don't know what I'm doing, don't have the machines tuned and aligned like the retired machinist on YouTube, and don't yet have the correct accessory, clamp, or cutting tool for [whatever I'm currently trying to do].   

[wasyoungonce]

Its Christmas all at once.     My extra Quecoo T12 958s arrived...they work perfectly and my Opens source T12 PCBs and associated parts made by Cory (Clytle374) also arrived.

Like a kid in a candy shop.   These Opens Source PCBs will be fitted to the New units and gives me easy commonality and fixes for some of the OEM controller deficiencies...and parts that are to suit properly not "what's cheapest".

I don't yet have time to power them I will soon , so much on my plate.....I feel like "Mr Creosote" (Monty Python fans will know)

Cory, I will follow up with it working when I get some connectors to fir the 958 power socket...or I'll just throw it on my variable PSU.   I'll follow up ASAP many thanks great stuff happy to help the Open Source community.  I know you'll only barely get your money back ...if at all due to development costs

So I extend my gratitude to You and all the guys who did T12 open source DavidAlfa  Cheers to all

[clytle374]

Its Christmas all at once.     My extra Quecoo T12 958s arrived...they work perfectly and my Opens source T12 PCBs and associated parts made by Cory (Clytle374) also arrived.

Like a kid in a candy shop.   These Opens Source PCBs will be fitted to the New units and gives me easy commonality and fixes for some of the OEM controller deficiencies...and parts that are to suit properly not "what's cheapest".

I don't yet have time to power them I will soon , so much on my plate.....I feel like "Mr Creosote" (Monty Python fans will know)

Cory, I will follow up with it working when I get some connectors to fir the 958 power socket...or I'll just throw it on my variable PSU.   I'll follow up ASAP many thanks great stuff happy to help the Open Source community.  I know you'll only barely get your money back ...if at all due to development costs

So I extend my gratitude to You and all the guys who did T12 open source DavidAlfa  Cheers to all

Glad you got them.  Don't push the board against the back of the GX connector, it looks like it could short.  The board doesn't sit quite square to the faceplate,  my 1st Ksger is like that, and it doesn't effect anything.  I use the encoder washer between the encoder and faceplate to level it out a bit. 

Mount everything and get the display in the middle of the window, then solder the 6 pins.

[wasyoungonce]

many thanks will do

[wasyoungonce]

ok problem

Soldered in display, encoder power etc...jumpered JP4 NTC for in handle NTC.

Red 24V+ to 24V, Blk V- to V- (not GND)...well gnd or PSU supply which is separate to earth and case earth.   Green to PE, "case GND".  A direct connection to GND.  Separate to V- or (T-).    T- and PE are not connected!

Powered....gave display recognised Tip stayed at around 117C but went to thermal runaway.  The bottom PWR graph showed it flat out....tip started to glow....powered off, ASAP.   I had not touched "boost: yet it appeared on display
 

Hooked up in following diagrams.   I note shake sensor and thermistor (in handle ) go to GND which is my PE "Case GND".   Maybe I should cut this?

As you can see from Quicko PSU GND (Green) goes to case case GND and GND out.

Black is -ve supply, red is 24V DC.   Controller FET Q1 measured....appears ok!   I downloaded datasheet looked at its pins and yes they are ok

Should I cut JP4?   I note sense and shake return to PE "GND"....is this right?   Should I cut this trace?

Ideas?...sad face

[clytle374]

You need to add jumper 2 in, it connects tip power to the thermocouple.  It has no temp sensing without it.

Sorry I'm at work, let me know if that's not clear and I'll get back too you as soon as I get home.

[clytle374]

Just to clarify

[clytle374]

Ugh, I'm on my phone and just noticed you need to add the opamp. It was in the bag with the displays

[wasyoungonce]

ahh I jumped 4...urrrrrgh...the OP Amps....wouldn't be A36?....Found some on the floor....qty 2?

[clytle374]

J4 is needed. (External NTC)
So is J2 (thermocouple and heater shared connection)
I don't remember what the opamp are marked with.  I can can look when I get home, they were still in the black strip. They only have 5 leads. Here is a picture of one in the strip

[wasyoungonce]

I never underestimate my stupidity...and I always overestimate my abilities!

Ok JP2 jumped, JP4?removed. (Ahh just reread your above I need this jumped as well….sigh I’ll do that).   A36 Installed.   Ran up power on system with variable PSU set 12V OCP set  ....display sprang to life...doesn't seem any damage...next need to re-plum power and run it

Thanks Cory, I'll repost ASAP but getting late Grandpa (me) needs his nap soon....

edit:
ok was beeping at pwr ....beeping at me...explored menu found "NTC" not enabled.  I enable "NTC" in menu, there is a whole swag of settings there I didn't touch but it worked apparently fine pic to folow

[wasyoungonce]

ok pics self explanatory

Many thanks Cory....just ran off Linear PSU limited current "in case".....it draw max ...well not sure but less than 3.5A.....to 200C.

I will tomorrow run it on my Quicko PSU. I stupidly took off JP4.  (Edit)I’ll put it back. Sigh!

Many thanks....good pickup on jumper!  My stupidity for not putting in Amp for NTC.   Also needs "NTC"  to be turned on in menu

The rest....looking good

edit: users could probably trim some length off the encoder shaft....unless i don't have the knob fully in???

[clytle374]

Nothing you did should hurt it any.

Powered....gave display recognised Tip stayed at around 117C but went to thermal runaway.  The bottom PWR graph showed it flat out....tip started to glow....powered off, ASAP.   I had not touched "boost: yet it appeared on display

The boost showing on the display is a preheat boost, this is different than the boost mode that increases the tip for extra heat while soldering.  It can be shut off in the menu, I have not found it to help speed up the initial warm up time.

 

I note sense and shake return to PE "GND"....is this right?   Should I cut this trace?

They should return to GND.  They can also go to PE.  Your handle might be wired differently due to the current sense on your old controller.  I solder bridge the PE and GND pins where the GX connector is. 

The NTC temp is in the upper right hand corner of the display.  It should be something like (-99) if the handle is unplugged, which is in your picture.  It's working in your picture. So did you put JP4 back?  Or leave a solder bridge? 

The op-amp is for the iron temperature.   

The unit will work fine on 12V, but power is way down.  It will take quite a bit more than 24V, 36V would burn the power regulator,  not sure what is max safe voltage.  The iron is completely use able at 16V

Here is my guide from the github page.  Let me know if it's clear. I'd appreciate feedback.  Yes the encoder shaft is on the long side.    

[wasyoungonce]

Nothing you did should hurt it any.
The boost showing on the display is a preheat boost, this is different than the boost mode that increases the tip for extra heat while soldering.  It can be shut off in the menu, I have not found it to help speed up the initial warm up time.

I didn't know that....part of the Open source?  Doesn't matter....but I know....I'll set it off.

 

I note sense and shake return to PE "GND"....is this right?   Should I cut this trace?

They should return to GND.  They can also go to PE.  Your handle might be wired differently due to the current sense on your old controller.  I solder bridge the PE and GND pins where the GX connector is. 
 

The Quicko (or Quecoo) are same as other T12s wiring ...well the 5 pin are.

Since my case and unit had good GND and track running right to the front connector (JST VH I think...I ordered some wired and plugs/sockets). I did solder "GND" to "PE".   I note some connect this "PE" here to "T-", but I kinda like them separate (because I have the separate GND), but, it has to be referenced to something?   

So, "Should I bridge "PE" (case GND) and "T-""?

The NTC temp is in the upper right hand corner of the display.  It should be something like (-99) if the handle is unplugged, which is in your picture.  It's working in your picture. So did you put JP4 back?  Or leave a solder bridge? 

Yes, I soldered JP4 and JP2 jumpers.... Note JP1 is "open"...no need to cut?

The op-amp is for the iron temperature.   
 

I had been working with some SOT23's that day and thought, "hello" I dropped some!   Not unusual for me.   Most of my spine is screwed together, so what ever God you believe in, doesn't like me, and lets gravity win, to have a laugh at me trying to pick them up!    I just thought oh I had better put them away.....but when you mentioned "OP AMPS".....I twigged!

The unit will work fine on 12V, but power is way down.  It will take quite a bit more than 24V, 36V would burn the power regulator,  not sure what is max safe voltage.  The iron is completely use able at 16V

Here is my guide from the github page.  Let me know if it's clear. I'd appreciate feedback.  Yes the encoder shaft is on the long side.   

Thanks I got somewhat confused with the drawing I guess stating "JP2" jumpered is how T12 gets its Thermocouple feedback.     Similar with JP4.   Jumpering it I understand but JP1 is already open.  I guess I'm saying a step by step instruction....as I didn't know to fit the "OPAMP" "U2" and its not on the image.   I really opened the displays when I was to use them so they fell out of the packet...I did not see them, till gravity won.

I ask ......any possibility of future PCBs, moving up the 24V and return input to fit "VH"?.  I think the JST XH is a little lite for the possible current drawn.

Fitting the display was a bit of a pain.   Might be easier with "flex wires" and double-sided tape?   Otherwise it was easy (apart from my issues) and runs extremely well.

oh lastly, "D1"....is a 1A Schottky reverse polarity protect. I noted on my power supply unit the "DC input" uses "two" similar diodes in parallel for this "T+".   I kinda wonder if a FET would be better for polarity protection and current capacity or two schottkys?   

I know current isn't always "high" but just thinking ling term.   I saw generally 500mA from my linear PSU but did see 1.5A.  FWIW...

Now to assemble unit #2!    This time I won't forget the gravy!  (Re: OPAMP).. A Looney Tunes cartoon....called "Chow Hound". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chow_Hound

[clytle374]

I didn't know that....part of the Open source?  Doesn't matter....but I know....I'll set it off.

It's part of the firmware. 

Since my case and unit had good GND and track running right to the front connector (JST VH I think...I ordered some wired and plugs/sockets). I did solder "GND" to "PE".   I note some connect this "PE" here to "T-", but I kinda like them separate (because I have the separate GND), but, it has to be referenced to something?   

So, "Should I bridge "PE" (case GND) and "T-""?

T- is the same a GND on this board. 

Yes, I soldered JP4 and JP2 jumpers.... Note JP1 is "open"...no need to cut?

Sorry for the confusion.  I wrote the instructions for the assembled units where all the jumpers were installed and some need cut.  The bare board needs them installed.  So JP1 already open, aka cut.

I had been working with some SOT23's that day and thought, "hello" I dropped some!   Not unusual for me.   Most of my spine is screwed together, so what ever God you believe in, doesn't like me, and lets gravity win, to have a laugh at me trying to pick them up!    I just thought oh I had better put them away.....but when you mentioned "OP AMPS".....I twigged!

Ouch!, sorry to hear that.

Thanks I got somewhat confused with the drawing I guess stating "JP2" jumpered is how T12 gets its Thermocouple feedback.     Similar with JP4.   Jumpering it I understand but JP1 is already open.  I guess I'm saying a step by step instruction....as I didn't know to fit the "OPAMP" "U2" and its not on the image.   I really opened the displays when I was to use them so they fell out of the packet...I did not see them, till gravity won.

Same problem again.  I need to clarify that the some need jumpers added and other need them cut.  Maybe I should get some lead free solder and attach all the op amps. 

So JP2 connects the heater output(T+) and the thermocouple input(J) together.  Some other irons have the thermocouple on a separate wire.  So I added the jumper so it could be removed and separate the T+ and J pads on the board.  So many variations, but I think that is for JBC handles where cutting the board is likely.       

I ask ......any possibility of future PCBs, moving up the 24V and return input to fit "VH"?.  I think the JST XH is a little lite for the possible current drawn.

I agree on that connector.  It chosen as it would be plug and play with the Ksger and I though Quicko units.  That's why II left the holes under the connector for wiring to the board.

Fitting the display was a bit of a pain.   Might be easier with "flex wires" and double-sided tape?   Otherwise it was easy (apart from my issues) and runs extremely well.

Not a bad idea.  It's not ideal.  And there's so many display variants out there.

oh lastly, "D1"....is a 1A Schottky reverse polarity protect. I noted on my power supply unit the "DC input" uses "two" similar diodes in parallel for this "T+".   I kinda wonder if a FET would be better for polarity protection and current capacity or two schottkys?   

This is embarrassing. I built the power supply up on homemade PCB at first and I used a diode I had and found first.  There is no reason for it to be a Shottky   I never caught it later.  The board will handle reverse polarity as long as the iron isn't plugged in.  Not sure about that if the iron is plugged in.  The diode is really there so that the switched current draw of of the heating element doesn't pull from the switching power regulators caps. I dislike electrolytic caps, and was short on room anyway.  In hindsight I could have went with 603 or 402 components, but I was designing to hand build a couple and not have them machine built.   

Now to assemble unit #2!    This time I won't forget the gravy!  (Re: OPAMP).. A Looney Tunes cartoon....called "Chow Hound". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chow_Hound

lol, it's all good.   

I don't think I missed any questions.
Thanks
Cory