Magnifying Lamp for Soldering

[Electro Fan]

There is another thread in the test equipment forum about microscopes:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/please-recommend-a-microscope-for-up-close-pcb-work-$200-$50-or-so/

A question was raised in that thread about whether the thread belonged in that forum so I'm posting this one over here.

Just looking for recommendations for a light with a magnifier on an articulating arm.

8X looks like a reasonable magnification but maybe something else would be better for soldering.

Not sure if fluorescent would be as good as LED - suggestions on lighting would be good.

Don't know if there is any reason to have a flip-up/down lid on top.

Feel free to suggest anything that has worked well.

These are just some examples:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Daylight-Naturalight-7-in-White-Magnifying-Lamp-UN1030/203076979?srccode=cii_13736960&AID=10368321&PID=1319015&cpncode=45-114484882-2&cm_mmc=CJ-_-1319015-_-10368321&cj=true

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Magnification-16-Diopter-Black-Clamp-on-Mag-Lamp-Light-Salon-Equipment-/291107796767?hash=item43c760771f:g:rAUAAOxyjxlTLMBN

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8X-Magnifying-Desk-Table-Clamp-Lamp-Mount-Magnifier-Light-Glass-Lens-Adjustable-/400963986686?hash=item5d5b50e4fe:g:VbIAAOSwd0BVshKW

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QO-8X-Desk-Table-Clamp-Mount-Magnifier-Lamp-Light-Magnifying-Glass-Lens-Diopter-/231314326298?hash=item35db68831a:g:8MMAAMXQL99SdE7V

[wblock]

Some friends gave me a well-used one of these years ago, and I still use it.  Due either to it being worn out, or just the spring and pivot design, it always wants to move a little or a lot when you let go of it.  This is somewhat... frustrating.  I've been looking for a gooseneck design which should not have the same problem.  (Tequipment has the Velleman gooseneck magnifier for $8.95, which is better than it has any right to be, but it is not lighted and has a smaller lens.)

Mine does not have the lens cover.  Could be useful, it does collect dust.

LEDs would be better, smaller and less fragile.  I frequently bump the fluorescent tube with a soldering iron handle, and have broken new tubes when trying to change old ones.

Overall, it works.  With a better mechanism that does not want to move after positioned and an LED light, it could be really great.

[KL27x]

8X looks like a reasonable magnification but maybe something else would be better for soldering.

8x is probably higher than you want. The higher the magnification, the closer the lamp has to be to the object. 8x won't leave you room to solder. 5x tops. 3x better, IMO, for the wider field of view.

[fivefish]

glass cover? No need for it.

LEDs or FL tubes.... tough choice.

I have both. LEDs to light the surrounding and overall bench area. (but the LEDs are diffused/bounced against an aluminum shiny surface, not pointed directly down the bench)

FL tubes on my magnifying lamp to light for closeup work (no hot spots, no harsh shadows, just a big overall even light).

[Electro Fan]

Thanks for the info.

I had a chance to try a couple magnifying glass lights today.  Both were about the same:  5" diameter glass, 3 diopter, T9 22W 6400k fluorescent light, on articulating arm.  One unit had a 90 degree flip up cover; as fivefish said, no need for that.  Mostly it felt like it was in the way.

Both units were about $59.  For this price it starts to make it hard to justify a microscope - but that's maybe because I haven't experienced a good microscope.

The fluorescent light gave nice lighting - bright enough and the color temp was ok.  The light felt just slightly warm when you put your face/eyes near the magnifier; not a big deal but perceptible.  If an LED light was equivalent in output and quality it might be better in terms of reduced heat.

The magnifier did a pretty good job and seemed to provide a reasonably expansive view while allowing about an 8" working distance.  The working distance could be made somewhat further or closer depending on your eyes and preferences.  The articulating arm was ok, not great; it held it's position pretty well but only swiveled about 45 degrees on the clamp mount.  One very good attribute (as noted by other EEVers) was that the magnifier/light head provides a bit of a barrier against the updraft solder fumes.

Other than a so-so quality articulating arm the only thing that wasn't quite ideal was the 3 diopter magnification.  I think a bit more magnification would be better even if it gives up some working distance and field of view.

I'm still not sure how 3 diopter extrapolates to X magnification but I have a hunch a bit more magnification would be good.

---

Update:  found this:  http://www.blaxalloptics.co.nz/magnification-facts.aspx

- my guess is that a 5-7 diopter or maybe a 3x magnification would be good - helpful enough with viewing and still leave enough working room to solder.

[georges80]

I have  rectangular magnifier - much nicer than the round ones. I retrofitted LED lights to mine - much nicer than the fluoro stuff since it is much cooler when use a lot. I installed dimmers on the LEDs so I can adjust as needed.

The unit I have has a swinging aux lens that allows 10X magnification, of course you need to move the object closer (within a couple of inches of the main lens, but great for checking for solder bridges etc.

It's essentially a Luxo Wave hybrid (I scored a free Luxo Wave and 'merged' it with a larger lens head). Been using it for several years and it's very nice to use.

cheers,
george.

[Electro Fan]

I have  rectangular magnifier - much nicer than the round ones. I retrofitted LED lights to mine - much nicer than the fluoro stuff since it is much cooler when use a lot. I installed dimmers on the LEDs so I can adjust as needed.

The unit I have has a swinging aux lens that allows 10X magnification, of course you need to move the object closer (within a couple of inches of the main lens, but great for checking for solder bridges etc.

It's essentially a Luxo Wave hybrid (I scored a free Luxo Wave and 'merged' it with a larger lens head). Been using it for several years and it's very nice to use.

cheers,
george.

Real nice design - maybe post some images if possible.  Thx

[georges80]

Pics below from when I switched to LEDs. Hmm, date on the pics is 7 years ago

I also put a 2nd LED on locline that has its own on/off/dimming driver. This allows me to illuminate the 10x combined magnifier 'subject' directly from above the lens, works really really well, no shadows.

I removed the fluoro ballast on the lower arm and installed a 12V DC supply (to power the DC LED drivers). So, all very factory looking, but much better than the original.

cheers,
george.

[rdl]

I don't know if it's true, but I read somewhere that the flip lid over the magnifier is to avoid accidentally starting a fire. Seems pretty far fetched though, like something a EU politician would come up with.

[MickM]

The lid keeps the shmutz off of the lens.

I have this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/fluorescent-magnifying-lamp-60643.html

Right now it's $39.99.

As well as a selection of hand held 5x and 10x.

[Electro Fan]

I don't know if it's true, but I read somewhere that the flip lid over the magnifier is to avoid accidentally starting a fire. Seems pretty far fetched though, like something a EU politician would come up with.

Yep - I saw a label on a box that said you shouldn't expose the lens to sun light.  But I think the benefit might be as MickM say - to keep the shmutz off the lens.  Or maybe the marketing department thought it would better double as a regular light with the cover down.  In my experience it just felt like it was something in the way so I'm inclined to look for a unit with out the lid.

[Electro Fan]

The lid keeps the shmutz off of the lens.

I have this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/fluorescent-magnifying-lamp-60643.html

Right now it's $39.99.

That looks like a very good deal.  It has a 38" arm (according to the spec) which is a nice compromise between the typical 30" which might be a tad short and the 45" which might be prone to getting top heavy when fully extended.  What is very nice about it is that it has enclosed springs rather than the exposed springs that generally come on less expensive models.  Not sure how well it holds position or how good the lens is but assuming they are good the only question is whether to go with the 3 diopter (1.75X), or if a fairly common 5 diopter (2.25X) might be preferred.  But for the price this model looks good.  As mentioned previously, the design acts as a fume barrier for your face and it allows you to see your hands and soldering iron along with a fair amount of PCB while offering some useful magnification.  Seems like a pretty good soldering accessory.

http://images.harborfreight.com/hftweb/home-page2015/images121015/25off121015-coupon.jpg
- with coupon it's $29.99

[georges80]

The additional cost of a 'good' magnifier (like the Luxo) is the lens quality, lens size (I prefer the rectangular style) *AND* an arm system that stays PUT WHERE YOU PUT IT...

Lots of the cheapo's the arms fail after a bunch of use (thin/crap metal) and often they never stay put due to their design (of the arm/spring system).

Anyhow, my 2c worth. I use my magnifier every day, so the few hundred $ means nothing given I've been using it for at least 7 years...

cheers,
george.

[Electro Fan]

The additional cost of a 'good' magnifier (like the Luxo) is the lens quality, lens size (I prefer the rectangular style) *AND* an arm system that stays PUT WHERE YOU PUT IT...

Lots of the cheapo's the arms fail after a bunch of use (thin/crap metal) and often they never stay put due to their design (of the arm/spring system).

Anyhow, my 2c worth. I use my magnifier every day, so the few hundred $ means nothing given I've been using it for at least 7 years...

cheers,
george.

Yep, sometimes you get what you pay for.

I spoke to Luxo today - very nice and helpful folks - fwiw they said the optics are the same on their KFM and LFM models.  The LFM models have exposed springs the KFM have internal springs and what looks like a pretty nice head arm.

I don't know how much better the optics and stability are on Luxos - maybe someone with a Luxo wants to spend $29.99 on a Harbor freight to compare optics and arms/mounts.

You could spend $30 at Harbor Freight, or $150 - $250 or more with Luxo but at some point around $250-300 or so you could be using an Amscope.  So many choices.   

[fivefish]

Check out Aven Tools also for similar price range. This is what I'm using.

I bought a 2nd cheap one from eBay... and the lens from the cheap eBay china knockoff just gave me headaches. Can't stand to look at it even for a few minutes.  But the Aven ones, I can work with it for hours.  No distortion, and very little distortion only at the extreme edges and only when looking sideways through it. No color fringing also. It's more spendy but well worth it in my opinion.

http://www.aventools.com/avens-complete-product-line/microscopy-and-inspection/magnifying-lamps-and-accessories/mighty-vue-magnifying-lamps#.VmtjZGQrL0M

[KL27x]

but at some point around $250-300 or so you could be using an Amscope.  So many choices

You will never replace a magnifying lamp with a microscope.

Massive focal depth, focal distance, and FOV are going to keep your mag lamp in a starting position. Not to mention mobile light source, alone.

This is why I suggest a lower magnification on the lamp. The more the magnification, the more you reduce those positive attributes. For the high magnification, that's where the microscope with the massive, stable base with less flexibility comes into play.

[Electro Fan]

but at some point around $250-300 or so you could be using an Amscope.  So many choices

You will never replace a magnifying lamp with a microscope.

Massive focal depth, focal distance, and FOV are going to keep your mag lamp in a starting position. Not to mention mobile light source, alone.

This is why I suggest a lower magnification on the lamp. The more the magnification, the more you reduce those positive attributes. For the high magnification, that's where the microscope with the massive, stable base with less flexibility comes into play.

KL27x - Your post is timely and very much on point.  I've been right on the cusp but leaning toward the same conclusion.  The mag lamp seems really practical. I think it's just as you say - it's the likely starting positon and go-to viewing tool.  But when I look in a simple but sharp 10x loupe it's clear that 3-5x isn't showing everything, especially with SMDs, and I can imagine that there is more to see occasionally even in the 10x - 20x range, and probably beyond for various non-soldering applications.  So, I think it's probably a 3-5x magnifier and a 2 or 3x to 45 or 90x scope (with a 0.3 and a 2.0 Barlow it's easy to get 2-13.5x and 14x-90x).

On the magnifier I'm leaning toward a 5x.  The 3x I looked at was good but I think I'd give up a tad on the FOV for just slightly more magnification.  I know you said 3x was preferred and 5x was tops on the magnifier,,,, still deciding on this... any more thoughts?  Thanks

[nctnico]

I'm still considering getting a Glamox Luxo Wave but the price is a bit steep and the maximum lense 'strength' they have is 5 diopter (x2.25). The el-cheapo magnifier lamp I have now has an 8 diopter lense (x3) and I'd like more magnification with less distortion. OTOH maybe I just need to use an extra lense. I wish I had space for a Mantis. From my past experience with a Mantis a 6x magnification is ideal for soldering and inspection

[KL27x]

(with a 0.3 and a 2.0 Barlow it's easy to get 2-13.5x and 14x-90x).
FYI, using a 0.3X barlow is not necessarily easy. That would give an average microscope something like 13" of working height. And the average microscope stand doesn't even go that high.

any more thoughts?

IMO, 2-3X is good enough for 0603 passives, but not as good for placing/soldering fine pitch ICs. If you want one tool for everything, I suppose a higher magnification lamp might be the way to go, if you get enough clearance. I think 5-7X is ideal, personally, for those ICs. If you are going to have more than one tool, an optivisor might be handy to close the gap. A loupe is always handy for identifying small SMD components.

I know you said 3x was preferred

Preferred by me. I have a particular way I work and what I'm used to, just like anyone else. Take that with a grain of salt or three. I'm also thrown off by diopters vs magnification. As best I can tell, my lamp actually has 2.25x magnification.

[nctnico]

magnification = (diopters / 4) +1

[Electro Fan]

magnification = (diopters / 4) +1

Yes, so I think 3 diopter = 1.75x and 5 diopter = 2.25x

[v8dave]

I've found it quite cumbersome to solder under one of those and mine how sits gathering dust or used purely for the lamp to light up the area I am soldering.

What I found works better is a set of bifocal spectacles with the top part as plain with no magnification and the lower part with 3 or 4 times magnification. The 3x I currently use can let me do fine SMD on 0.5mm pitch stuff with ease. I got a cheap pair made for me in a local opticians. I think I paid about $40 equivalent for them.

They are also handy to carry around with you if you need to work on anything away from your desk.

[rdl]

I did something similar. I bought the highest magnification reading glasses I could find at Walmart. I think they were 3.75 or 4 diopter. I paid less than $10 and they work fairly well, but then I only use the larger size smd parts.

[Electro Fan]

(with a 0.3 and a 2.0 Barlow it's easy to get 2-13.5x and 14x-90x).
FYI, using a 0.3X barlow is not necessarily easy. That would give an average microscope something like 13" of working height. And the average microscope stand doesn't even go that high.

Thanks for the heads-up on this.

I'm looking at Amscope's double arm stand (which is either the same price or $15 more than their single arm stands depending on which single arm you like).  The double arm stand is their model "DAW".

The specs say:

30" Overall Length
20" Double Arms
17" High Pillar
10-1/4" x 8-1/4" x 2-0" Solid Cast Steel Base

Although the specs don't include all the dimensions a bit of look-see measuring from their photos indicates the double arm housing can be driven up to within about 0.5" of the top of the pillar (the last 0.5" looks to be tapered).  Given this and other guestimates I think the maximum distance between the bottom of the objective (actually the bottom of the light ring attached to the objective) lens is about 9.25".  If the upper half inch of the pillar is usable (but given the tapered maybe not) that would give 9.75" to the bench top.  You would probably have to subtract out the depth of a PCB - so maybe it's close to 9" all things considered.  Which means for the same head you might need about a 21" pillar.  Amscope makes a single arm stand that has a 20" pillar - that might do it with the 0.3 Barlow or it might come up an inch or so short to get the full benefit of the 0.3 Barlow.

PS, there is a follow-up with some interesting info on the pillar height scenarios - I've posted it back in the original microscope thread https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/please-recommend-a-microscope-for-up-close-pcb-work-$200-$50-or-so/msg821011/#msg821011 (vs. this magnifying lamp thread).

[Electro Fan]

I did something similar. I bought the highest magnification reading glasses I could find at Walmart. I think they were 3.75 or 4 diopter. I paid less than $10 and they work fairly well, but then I only use the larger size smd parts.

v8dave and rdl, this sounds like very good idea to check-out.  Seems like either a solution or a great prototype to help figure out the solution.  Thx, EF