So, at this point, all you're trying to do is charge the input capacitors? All the following circuitry has been disconnected? And you're trying to figure out why the original and then the replacement resistor blew?
Here are some random thoughts.........
A 35 ohm, 25W resistor has a full load current of ~1.2A @ 30V. Bdunham7, you said you expected a peak current of 10A. Where did you come up with that number? I'd expect a much higher number, but I have no experience with 3 phase. In any case, I'm not surprised that a 25W Chinese resistor wouldn't be happy with an 8X overload current spike and a, possibly, over 10X voltage overload. What could possibly go wrong?
Note that the DF60AA120 3 phase bridge rectifier has a surge current rating of over 900A. Tiger, can you find a part number and datasheet for the original resistor? Does it have a surge rating?
Why did the original resistor blow? Maybe just age? How old is this thing? It sounds like those resistors are living a very hard life. If you have the room, I'd recommend replacing both resistors with higher wattage units. Note that they have to be
*rated* for high wattage, but they don't have to
*dissipate* that power. The surge comes and goes so quickly that heating is minimal. So, for example, you can use a resistor that's designed to be mounted on a heatsink, but not use a heatsink - or maybe just a small one. Many years ago I used a similar circuit to soft-start a 300W projector bulb. A high quality 20 ohm 10W resistor died a quick death. A 25W resistor was robust enough to take the surge, but heat wasn't an issue.
Does relay K1 operate? If not, the resistors are being stressed even more because they have to survive the complete capacitor charging cycle. Now, heat could become an issue.
If all the output circuitry has been disconnected (don't forget the A600 Phase Loss board) you can slowly ramp the voltage up - either AC or DC - and see how the circuit responds.
If you decide to use a light bulb, remember that the bulb has to be rated for the supply voltage. So, if you don't happen to have any 400V light bulbs kicking around, put two 220V bulbs in series. When I powered up a 33V@33A supply, I had to use a 100W bulb before it would start, but that was with all the circuitry active. If all you're doing is charging the input capacitors, it doesn't really matter what you use. The lamps will flash on and then slowly go out.