Motherboard RGB header smoked using RGB strip.

[DW1961]

How can I test future strips before I plug them in? Is there anyway t prevent that? It doesn't seem like it becasue if a resister is bad, and allows unlimited current, it would still produce continuity?

[thm_w]

MK14 sort of mentioned it above.

- Set multimeter to 10A DC range.
- Connect the '+' red lead of your multimeter to the 12V supply positive, connect the '-' black lead to the "12V" terminal on the LED strip.
- Connect the 'R' on LED strip to the ground of your 12V supply (black).
- The LEDs for red should light, and the multimeter will give you a current reading. Can repeat for the other color channels, testing one at a time.

Hopefully you have a spare 12V supply (3A+ rated), or old PC power supply to use for testing. Otherwise you'd have to use your main PCs 12V supply..

https://www.electronicshub.org/current-measurement-using-multimeter/

[DW1961]

How about putting some sort of protection in-between the strip and the 12V RGB riser to prevent damage to the MB fets,etc., ? Would that be possible?

[thm_w]

You can put a fast blow fuse (2A? 3A? not sure what those FETs were rated). But then its likely either its going to blow right away or never blow. If the LEDs somehow failed, usually thats open circuit.

Another option would be to buffer the signal, have your own FET board that is triggered from the main board pins. Basically duplicating what is on the board already.
But this would take some design work or modification of an existing board. Maybe someone has made one already?

[DW1961]

Well, what would be the downside of just soldering in a 2A fuse? The rise is good for 2Amps.

[Rasz]

Another option would be to buffer the signal, have your own FET board that is triggered from the main board pins. Basically duplicating what is on the board already.
But this would take some design work or modification of an existing board. Maybe someone has made one already?

yes, linked one earlier https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Tiny-Signal-Amplifier-for-5050-3528-SMD-RGB-LED-Light-Strip-12V-12A-144W/274416133192
actually more expensive than complete controller you found :]

[DW1961]

Wouldn't a simple fuse work? I mean, yeah, a regulator would be great if I could do it. But I doubt I can.

Something like this: 2V Water-Resistant Add-A-Circuit Blade Type Inline Fuse Holder with Cap16 Gauge
https://www.amazon.com/Water-resistant-Circuit-Blade-Inline-holder/dp/B018W2T7VA/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=12v+2+amp+fuse+holder&qid=1594499440&sr=8-10

[DW1961]

So, IF I ever get my RMA'ed board back from Gigabyte

user error, in central EU this would be declined. in US will depend on the retailer and how much they value customers to eat the cost of new motherboard

We'll what happened was that UPS delivered the bard to the wrong address, and it  took me three weeks to figure that out becasue they delivered it to a Gigabyte address, but to the wrong Gigabyte address (about 2 miles away).  Then I had to contact UPS and that took another week. Then they accidentally closed the case, so it had to be reopened. Then another 7 days for them to get their shit in one sock.

It finally got delivered to Gigabyte on 08/13, and I finally got it back 09/04 -- so about two months now.

They sent me out a new board. They sent a new one out, but they sent it back in my original box and printed my original SN and stuck it on the new board. I didn't get a new manual or anything. Just a bare board with a old SN on it. They must have a certain number of those boards in stock for replacements?

In the mean time, I got a MM and learned how to test the for current and cross check for shorts using the continuity option. I tested a strip last night and current and continuity were fine. I cross checked it by adding up the Amps of the 5050 SMDs maximum power, then used a 12V power supply to test all lights on 100% and the reading was spot on with the mathematical calculations for amperage.

All I need to do now, except for relearning all of the wiring in my rig, is to create my RGB strip, fully test it using an external 12V PSU, mount it, then put the radiator and block back in. I started continuity testing every single wire and cable before I hook them up too.

I'm a little scared for fire it up the first time because I have no idea where that board has been or came from. If they had sent me out a board in retail packaging, then I'd be less concerned.

I'm going to leave all of the LED stuff unplugged on my first  post.