Oh yeah, one more question for you guys: The controllers!
So the only part that actually needs to be in the controller enclosure is the 5K pot, so you won't need a board or anything for it. You can just get a small handheld plastic case from Hammond or wherever, drill a hole in the middle and install a chassis mount pot. The P1 controller will also have a push button on it for serving the ball, but again this can all be free wired right from the cable.
Now, I was looking through Digi-Key for a suitable connector to use on the Pong box and I found a good option. It's a 6-pin mini-DIN connector. They're less than a dollar and have like 15,000 in stock. There's also a mating male connector (solder cup type) available, complete with strain relief.
Now, the connector I've currently specced is PCB mount, which I figure would work out for most people. It'll be mounted on the front of the board, so if you make a custom case you can just drill a hole in the correct position. And, because of the length of the housing on male mini-DIN connectors, the board doesn't even have to be flush against the back of the front panel; think of the AT keyboard connector and how it wasn't flush against the case of old PCs.
Now, I know this may not be acceptable for some of you, because of whatever enclosure you're planning. That's alright, as Digi-Key *also* has a panel mount 6-pin mini-DIN connector available. In that case, you could just use that and solder wires between the terminals and the TH pads on the board. (Or you could use a D-sub connector, or hardwire the controllers in, whatever you want.)
For the DP4T switch, I've currently just put down labeled TH pads, so you can wire up a panel mount rotary switch.
I've made sure the TH pads on both the connector *and* switch footprints are large enough for 22AWG wire and the rings are wide enough for easy soldering.
Hopefully this will workout for those who plan to build custom cases and those who don't want to use a case.
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