So now I am ready to run the footprint assignment tool. I still need to add the fan power and control circuit and any mods that may be needed for the display. Should I wait till this is done before starting to assign footprints? I am going to read back through the display discussion likely several times so I can understand it better before my next step forward.
I have been creating some parts list carts at DigiKey and Mouser. I may even need to add in Newark and Texas Instuments to get it all. I am ordering multiples of most everything figuring It won't hurt to have some spares for future experiments and projects.
@Kleinstein you mentioned some TL062 chips. I would like to order some of those as well as the LM358's I already have in my cart. I would like to be able to interchange like pqass suggested by using sockets. My question is there are many different suffixes on them any particular suffix I should choose? Also TL431LP's also have many suffixes I am guessing the TO-92 package does the suffix matter?
WRT S2A and B (on HPs schematic): The switch to change transformer taps is ganged to to the switch in the CREF generation section. Why? Because if you double the output voltage possible you are only allowed that at half the current; as you're limited by the VA of the transformer. The "S1A" label on a contact of the S2B switch is just nuts. The (momentary) switch called CC SET is just to choose your set vs. actual current shown on the display. I don't know why they called it S1A when there is no B in sight.
You can assign footprints anytime (once you annotate everything the first time). Just save it in the Assign Footprints popup. If you don't delete the symbol, your choice will remain there. You can then add more symbols, then annotate the new ones in the Assign Footprints popup again (previous assignments should remain). Just use generic footprints DIP (double and single op amp layouts) and you'll have lots of op amps to choose from.
The parts list shows the Front panel pots as a 50k 10-turn ww for volt adjust. That one I found a Bourns for at Mouser. The other for the current side it shows a 10k 10-turn CERMET. That one I cannot find. Is there something special about the CERMET that makes it better for current? Any idea of where I may find one? My net search only finds 1-turn panel mount CERMETs and the 10-turn are all ww.
I wouldn't worry too much about exotic pots or 1% odd-ball value resistors just yet. I think you should prototype the bare minimum circuit on a breadboard or perfboard, with a single darlington, jelly-bean single-turn pots, and a collection of op amps to try would be enough to get basic voltage regulation working. You could then add the Current Error Amp, CV/CC Indicators, and then the meters last. At each checkpoint, you'll be testing and gaining knowledge. Then finally update the parts piecemeal to their final form (eg. better transformer, parallel darlingtons, 10T pots, posts, etc.). Your implementation won't be exactly like the version in the service manual.
Once the prototype validates your specific design, you can update the schematic and produce a PCB layout that you know will work. PCB layout without prototyping guarantees that there will be multiple errors that bodge wires can't fix. It's a recipe for frustration.