my cook top hates my heatpump?

[Jeroen3]

so. what you are saying is that the cooker "can" be internally connected to just ONE of the phases? (splitting one phase to the oven, and one to the induction top?). well. that could be. i don't know. might have to open it up to have a look

but the oven part is working flawless either way. its only the induction top that is having an issue

The oven is often on/off control. The induction heaters uses some kind of dimming circuits, I don't know the specifics of this. High THD screws with the cheap zero cross triggering circuits. There is no easy fix for this.
4kW inverter will definetely cause significant current harmonics, and the source impedance defines how much voltage harmonics you will get.
It's a very common problem when people use motor drives on generators without thinking ahead. Lots of other systems sources by the generator fail to work or get damaged. Or even worse, the generator regulation fails and burns everything.

Other option is indeed that the cooker is wired incorrectly, I think that is unlikely. Easy to inspect though.

[inductive]

it came prewired from the factory.

so i doubt that it is. perhaps its just the combination of cooker vs heatpump. and replacing the cooker is the simple (yet expensive solution).

but there is no doubt in my mind the pump that causing the issue. and who knows what other electronics it can screw with

heres a pic of the wiring on the cooker. don't feel like tearing into it today.

the combined wattage of the oven/cooker is 10kw according to the sticker

[JustMeHere]

one qick question, what would a normal voltage balance be?


L to Ground: 116,3
N to Ground: 144,7

L+N:  229,4

there are some variatons in voltage. but only 3-4 volts

In the US N-G should always be 0.  N and G are connected in the panel.    Note that 240V in the US can be HHG or HHNG.  120 is HNG

[Monkeh]

one qick question, what would a normal voltage balance be?


L to Ground: 116,3
N to Ground: 144,7

L+N:  229,4

there are some variatons in voltage. but only 3-4 volts

In the US N-G should always be 0.  N and G are connected in the panel.    Note that 240V in the US can be HHG or HHNG.  120 is HNG

It's an IT system. Your assumptions do not hold.

[noidea]

If it is and the noise is only happening when the compressor in the heatpump is running then it most likely related to the active power factor correction circuit (V2R, V3R, V1T, L1R) section of the A1P board and not the power transistor module thats creating the three phase for the compressor.

the indoor unit is a  EHVH16S26CB9W and the outdoor is: ERLQ016CAV3
and YES. it only happens when the compressor runs

Ta on the model number, the diagram I posted should be OK as a reference

Regarding the noise you hear on your PC when the compressor is running, is it a steady frequency noise or does it change as the compressor ramps up and down?

[inductive]

Ta on the model number, the diagram I posted should be OK as a reference

Regarding the noise you hear on your PC when the compressor is running, is it a steady frequency noise or does it change as the compressor ramps up and down?

it is steady

[denelec]

Maybe the problem is not EMI but harmonics.
If the compressor of the heat pump is driven by a Variable Frequency Drive (inverter), it may emits a lot of harmonic current.
These currents may distort the mains voltage.  Some electronic devices are very susceptible to harmonic distorsion.
A simple check with an oscilloscope may confirm if the voltage sinewave is distorted.
A THD of more than 8% is problematic.

[inductive]

damn, shouldn't have sold my old scope then (dumpster find), worked great. but i didnt have much use of it until now


the manufacturer wants to replace the filtering board. but by the sounds of it. that won't help?


i do have a report that the electrical company made about a year ago. a lot of info in that report that i don't know too much about (i'm a Telecom techichian. i do CATV and Fiber)

[Berni]

Yeah i have pretty low hopes that replacing the filter board would help.

Tho if it is a conducted noise problem perhaps putting a huge ferite on the mains cable could help. Not sure how hard they are to find in those sizes. I saw some large ones made by Wurth Electonics, for small quantities Farnell.com sells there stuff.

[inductive]

would be fun to know exactly what is happening.

might have to borrow a scope from work (if we still have scopes)

[KaneTW]

If you buy something from WE just order directly. Distributor prices for their stuff are absurd.

[Berni]

If you buy something from WE just order directly. Distributor prices for their stuff are absurd.

Yeah it costs 2 to 5 times as much at Farnell but if you just need one of something it might be easier. I never tried ordering something from Wurth directly as a mere mortal. At work we are in contact with there local distributor branch and they get us samples and stuff via email. I do notice its now possible to order samples from the website but there is still no buy button.

Then again since the website does now have a samples button you could just register with a email that looks like a company and pretend you are one and you would get them for free.

[KaneTW]

I'm self-employed (Freiberufler) and got a quote (and samples) with no issues.

[inductive]

we have a würth store in town. however. if you are not a registered company customer. they add about 80 to 90% on their prices. making it effing expensive to buy anything there.


this way, then don't have to deal with private customers. unless you have deep pockets

[KaneTW]

As long as you have a VAT ID you'll be fine.

[Siwastaja]

we have a würth store in town.

Different from Wurth Elektronik. No electronics there.

[inductive]

no luck on finding a usable scope as of yet.

only one available was an old (older then me) 1970s tektronix 434. which ofcourse did not work

[noidea]

Hi inductive, just wondering how you are getting on with this issue? Do you have any updated news or have your managed to solve your issue yet?