Multi-channel LED controller for doll house

[haizaar]

Good day guys,

I'm researching on how to make a multi-zone lights for a doll house - such that my little one can control light color and intensity in each room. Ideally I'd like to have 7 zones, but at least 4.

Most of the multi zone kits I found are targeted for driving lights for human, not doll houses, and hence are bulky and expensive.

The smallest and cheapest way I found is to connect each doll house room to a separate wi-fi controller like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32950661184.html?spm=2114.search0604.8.53.70161172MWFFDS&transAbTest=ae803_5 and then operate them from smartphone.
While this looks straight forward, it seems a bit of an overkill... Also I prefer my daughter to have a dedicated remote and not a smartphone.

Then I saw there are addressable led strips, and I thought may be I can connect each doll house room serially as a single addressable led strip and program them somehow. But most of the googling ends up with adruino tutorials and assumes some adruino experience.

Are there any other methods? I don't need any fancy flashing patterns - just color control and brightness.
If anyone has links/tutorials to simple, multi-channel kit / easily programmable individually controlled led strip or a detailed guide how to build one?

I don't have much electronics background but capable to do basic soldering/assembly, routing wires, etc.

Thank you!

[thinkfat]

Have a look at the ISSI catalog. They have a number of multi channel drivers.

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[haizaar]

Found this [1], but it looks too low level for my current skill set

[1] http://www.issi.com/WW/pdf/FxLED_Product_Guide.pdf

[thinkfat]

If you want an integrated driver, the package usually (naturally) has a lot of pins. If you don't want to do the soldering, maybe you can find an evaluation board with the chip you want to use? Mouser and Digikey list them in a separate category and they should be easy to find, if they exist.

Can you do SMD soldering? How do you usually build your projects?

If you have found a chip you want to use, but the package is too complex for your skills, you can use the 'find similar' function on the distributors website, maybe something comes up from a different source that is more suitable.

If you are looking for ready-made driver boards, try Tindie, Seeed, Adafruit, Sparkfun, all the 'Maker' related shops, they may be a better fit for your needs. Aliexpress or Banggood may have something you can use as well, if buying from China directly is not scary for you.

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[autotel]

I think that if you want to make it digital, the best option are indeed the WS2812 addressable leds (the same you were talking about). They are actually very easy to use thanks to libraries. You can also find them in all sorts of breakouts, such as in strip, individually, in circle, etc. There are even through-hole versions of it! I suggest connecting all of them in series, so that you can use a single Arduino pin to control them all. If you don't want to put one cable to each room for the switching, you could do a user interface with switches/potentiometers in a drawing of the house (so you don't have to cable every button to every room!)

To make it analog, is still simple and more intuitive, but you will need a lot more of cables. You can have all the LED's sharing the same ground, and then dim each of them individually using a potentiometer. You need to put a resistor on each LED to reduce the current. Then, to produce things such as colour selection you'd just need many leds and potentiometers. Let's say, to control light warmth, you use a warm led and a cold led, each with a potentiometer. Note that there are 2-gang potentiometers, that you can use to make each led have the opposite brightness of the other. If you want an analog RGB light, then you need three potentiometers, which is why I would go for the digital approach any day.

[haizaar]

autotel, thanks for much for detailed answer!

Hard choice Being a techie person, the digital version looks more appealing, but I don't want it to take "forever" till I'll learn arduino, since it my free time is limited.

In favor of analog approach, is that's more tangible for a kid a play with and something that she can more easily to understand, but you are right - if I install RGB led into each room and want to control R, G, B & intensity it's 4 potentiometers per 4 room, or 32 in total that may be a bit too much
On the other hand it's very straight-forward (for me) to implement.

At least the second option is clear now. so  thanks again!

[sokoloff]

I built LED stick figure costumes for our family last Halloween, using APA102 (digital, 4-wire, similar to the WS above) LED strips. The programming took me all of a couple hours.

If you have a good idea of what type of user interface you want for the doll house, the programming itself is extremely easy. Deciding on and implement the UI will be the hardest part of the project. Hell, if you promise to post pics of the finished product here, I'd do the programming gratis and release the code as open source. I would definitely go the digital serial route.

[ogden]

You may consider DMX512 LED dimmer, wifi ArtNet receiver, control it all using Android or ios ArtNet controller software

[sokoloff]

In favor of analog approach, is that's more tangible for a kid a play with and something that she can more easily to understand, but you are right - if I install RGB led into each room and want to control R, G, B & intensity it's 4 potentiometers per 4 room, or 32 in total that may be a bit too much
On the other hand it's very straight-forward (for me) to implement.

I'd favor a digital approach here still, with a rotary encoder (think pot, but digital) per room that defaults to brightness. Then, press the button and it changes mode to be hue, press again and it's saturation. (Or start with brightness and press again for Red, then again for Green, then again for Blue, then again for overall, but doing the adjustment in HSV space [with V as default] will be more natural for people.)

This way gives you something nice and tangible for the kid(s) to play with, while keeping the reliability high and wiring effort (and tangle) low.

For the LED stick figures, I put IR receivers on the costume battery packs and used the omni-present LED remote controller as the interface to the costumes. This way, I didn't have to build anything physical UI-wise. This is another good option. Directly select the color or fade up/down and use one of the other buttons (I used smooth) to select rooms. First press controls the dining room say. Then press smooth and the bedroom blinks a couple times [to let you know which room is about to be controlled], then any buttons for the next minute control that room. Then smooth again and you control the hallway, etc.

[haizaar]

For the LED stick figures, I put IR receivers on the costume battery packs and used the omni-present LED remote controller as the interface to the costumes. This way, I didn't have to build anything physical UI-wise. This is another good option. Directly select the color or fade up/down and use one of the other buttons (I used smooth) to select rooms. First press controls the dining room say. Then press smooth and the bedroom blinks a couple times [to let you know which room is about to be controlled], then any buttons for the next minute control that room. Then smooth again and you control the hallway, etc.

Can you please elaborate on this? This remote looks like something that comes with RGB led strip driver kit [1], but they only can control a single strip (a single room in my case)
I can install such controller for each room, but how do select between them, with a single remote, as you described? 8 remotes is a bad option

[1] https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32998515986.html

[thinkfat]

This is probably what you would need, but it's USB controlled...

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1689

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[haizaar]

If you have a good idea of what type of user interface you want for the doll house, the programming itself is extremely easy. Deciding on and implement the UI will be the hardest part of the project. Hell, if you promise to post pics of the finished product here, I'd do the programming gratis and release the code as open source. I would definitely go the digital serial route.

Sorry, I missed this message. Your idea in other post to use a single remote while allowing switching between rooms looks very appealing to me! I'd rather not to use smartphone.

If you can guide me which parts to buy and help me with initial version of software, I'll be grateful! Pics, video, and beer on me! 
I understand we are talking about pixel led strip like here [1], Arduino (Uno?) board, IR remote, and IR receiver arduino? Can RF receiver, like in kit [2], be used (less aiming)

Thanks a bunch!

[1] https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32682015405.html
[2] https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32979080770.html

[sokoloff]

That remote is a transmitter that converts button presses into short serial strings (think “a specific number”) sent over IR. As it was originally used, those numbers are received by the power supply for the LED string and interpreted a certain way.

For the stick figures (or your doll house), you can have an IR receiver attached to an Arduino (or other microcontroller) listen for those numbers and interpret them a different way. Listen for (the number that corresponds to) “off” and turn off whatever the active light is. Listen for “up” and brighten the active light. Listen for “blue” and change the active light to blue. Listen for “smooth” and change the active light to the next one and blink that light three times, etc.

It’s still a programming task (albeit one that I’ll volunteer to do for you  and open source for all).

[haizaar]

This is probably what you would need, but it's USB controlled...

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1689

Looks promising... but how do I control use it using a remote? With raspberry pie + IR sensor?

[haizaar]

That remote is a transmitter that converts button presses into short serial strings (think “a specific number”) sent over IR. As it was originally used, those numbers are received by the power supply for the LED string and interpreted a certain way.

For the stick figures (or your doll house), you can have an IR receiver attached to an Arduino (or other microcontroller) listen for those numbers and interpret them a different way. Listen for (the number that corresponds to) “off” and turn off whatever the active light is. Listen for “up” and brighten the active light. Listen for “blue” and change the active light to blue. Listen for “smooth” and change the active light to the next one and blink that light three times, etc.

It’s still a programming task (albeit one that I’ll volunteer to do for you  and open source for all).

Let's go for it!
So... Arduino Uno, Pixel led strip, and... can you advise on IR receiver? I prefer RF one - less aiming.
May be I should get a led kit [1] and reuse the remote. WDYT?

[1] https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32979080770.html

[sokoloff]

(Our messages crossed. Sounds like you've got it.)

I would recommend the 4-wire LED strips (APA102 style) over the 3-wire WS2812 style.
Pick a vendor. I bought mine from these guys, but the exact item that I bought is no longer available. It seems like the current listing that's similar is this one.

You can trim the strips at any number of LEDs and join them with 4 wire connectors of your choosing (or solder bare wires). You can run them all in a single string or have multiple strings. You can't really have strings that "branch" in the middle (you can, but don't, because then you can't control each branch independently).

I also bought 4-pin cable and the 4-pin LED connectors (but you could use any 4-pin connector or no connector as above). The connectors are the hardest and most time-consuming part of the project (and are the most fiddly, especially in a costume scenario where people are moving and flexing everything).

Then, get whatever Arduino suits your fancy. I used Nanos. I bought relatively expensive IR receivers. The cheaper ones did work in testing as well, but those are the ones I used for the costumes.
I find that the IR is plenty forgiving in terms of aiming. The kid(s) will handle it just fine. It's not like you need to be a sniper to hit it. Buy whatever IR remote control you want from whatever LED listing you want. They all work about the same. This one is cheap [you're only using the remote portion of for this project].

Do us both a favor and start out with the IR remote (because I know it works and have all the code already written and proven on my stick figure costumes and it's cheap). If that turns out to not work well enough, I'll try to get the RF to work in the project.

You'll need a computer with the USB serial port driver and the Arduino software (free) installed and a cable to connect to the Arduino and a power supply to run the dollhouse. (A USB wall wart will work just fine.)

That's about all I can think of for now. Fire away with any other questions. I try to get onto EEVblog every day except when I'm traveling.

[thinkfat]

This is probably what you would need, but it's USB controlled...

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1689

Looks promising... but how do I control use it using a remote? With raspberry pie + IR sensor?

Yes, any single board computer that has USB host would do it. But I do like the idea of using an IR remote, so I guess you've now covered all your bases already. Good luck with the project, I'll try to follow this thread to see how you're doing!

Have fun and I hope your little one will enjoy the new toy!

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[haizaar]

That's about all I can think of for now. Fire away with any other questions. I try to get onto EEVblog every day except when I'm traveling.

I opened a github repo for this project: https://github.com/haizaar/doll-house-lights
Please let me know your GH username and I'll add you as a member. Let's continue there so we can track issues though separate tickets to make things easier? We can report back to the thread once this project concludes (or if we get stuck )

[sokoloff]

Sounds great!

I’m jim-sokoloff on GitHub.

We should probably give periodic updates on thread here, maybe at major milestones.

[haizaar]

Great. I'll happily provide project summaries periodically.

[rrinker]

 Reach outside the home and electronics area - try model trains. Woodland Scenics makes a system called the Just Plug light system with controllers, distribution blocks, and all sorts of stuff that "just ply" together. They sell prewired LEDs as well as scale signs, street lights, and structures which are compatible with this system (though not in the scale required for a dollhouse). The connectors aren;t really proprietary, so you cna wire your own LEDs to plug in.

 Traditionally, people stuffed a single light bulb up into a model structure, but with LEDs, people are getting fancier and dividing the structure into different rooms and having individual lights. Even very well done replication of a flickering TV screen, using Arduinos. My plan is to equip my structures with a small micro, like an ATTiny series, driving the lights in a believable pattern to make it look occupied. No reason this wouldn't work with something larger, like dollhouse size - it would just be easier to hide the circuit and the wiring.

[sokoloff]

I really like the flickering TV set idea!

[haizaar]

Reach outside the home and electronics area - try model trains. Woodland Scenics makes a system called the Just Plug light system with controllers, distribution blocks, and all sorts of stuff that "just ply" together. They sell prewired LEDs as well as scale signs, street lights, and structures which are compatible with this system (though not in the scale required for a dollhouse). The connectors aren;t really proprietary, so you cna wire your own LEDs to plug in.

 Traditionally, people stuffed a single light bulb up into a model structure, but with LEDs, people are getting fancier and dividing the structure into different rooms and having individual lights. Even very well done replication of a flickering TV screen, using Arduinos. My plan is to equip my structures with a small micro, like an ATTiny series, driving the lights in a believable pattern to make it look occupied. No reason this wouldn't work with something larger, like dollhouse size - it would just be easier to hide the circuit and the wiring.

Thanks for that - their site has so many cute things! The light system looks very simple indeed. Unfortunately their controllers can only drive single-color leds, while I want to be able to change colors. Also the price is quite substantial for what I'm ready to invest in this project. I'm sure the quality is great and modularity will pay off for a serous modeler over time. However to plug 8 leds, which they sell $10/piece, I also need 2 light hubs and extension hub. Together with power supply it's $155 + $55 shipping to Oz. Auduino nano + led strip + IR receivers + IR remote is less than $20 delivered and that includes enough spare parts to build additional kits for just $5 (arduino + IR remote).

Anyhow, I ordered parts as per list from sokoloff. I'll post an update once they arrive from China and I'll have something to fiddle with. Couple of weeks I guess.

Thanks again for your help and ideas - you rock!

[rrinker]

 That's why I'm building my own as well. The Just Plug stuff is just way too expensive for what it is, but it does offer a certain convenience for the non-electronic person. Of which there are MANY in model railroading - my other active forum participation is one of the model railroad forums and the number of people who don't grasp the concept of a complete circuit (never mind LEDs, dropping resistors, or any of that sort of thing) is just amazing.

 You can find some interesting Arduino sketches here: https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/blog/geoff-bunza  Particularly on the second page, SMA16 - Harry's TV Shop for the TV simulator.

[sokoloff]

I pushed a couple of very basic "make sure everything is working and connected right" sketches to the github repo.

01-IR-test-code is used to check that your IR receiver and IR remote are working together correctly.
02-APA102-test-code is used to check that your APA102 strands are working correctly [and that you know which of the various color orders are correct]

Let me know if you have any issues with either. It's possible that I have a hacked up Adafruit_Dotstar library, because I did make some changes to that library to get my Halloween costumes to work the way I wanted. I don't think any of my changes will have a negative effect, but I don't want to blow them away before I figure out how to package them up as a pull request for the Adafruit repo.

Tested on an Arduino Pro clone, using pins D2 for clock, D3 for data 1, D4 for data 2, D7 for IR output, D8 for IR Vcc, D9 for IR GND