Choke ID

[registereduser]

Can anyone know the value of this choke from a small AM/FM radio?

[janoc]

* janoc gets out a crystal ball, gazes into it for 5 minutes and then: "100nH! That is for sure 100nH!"

I.e. with the information you have posted that's about as good and accurate answer as you will get. Blurry photo of a part of a board of some unknown radio, with no model number, no readable markings anywhere, good luck. Or that crystal ball ...

If you want to know the inductance, desolder it and measure it.

[Gyro]

* janoc gets out a crystal ball, gazes into it for 5 minutes and then: "100nH! That is for sure 100nH!"

...
If you want to know the inductance, desolder it and measure it.

Well I very much doubt that it would be 100nH, whichever direction you read it, it's got a green dot so there's a '5' in there. 

Assuming that the black end is the multiplier, then my crystal ball says maybe 15uH, but yes, unless you can find a body code reference, the only way to be sure is to measure it. I've no idea if the main body colour has any relevance (or whether the black end is actually uH).

[Neomys Sapiens]

Should be like this when in the shown form factor:

[janoc]

* janoc gets out a crystal ball, gazes into it for 5 minutes and then: "100nH! That is for sure 100nH!"

...
If you want to know the inductance, desolder it and measure it.

Well I very much doubt that it would be 100nH, whichever direction you read it, it's got a green dot so there's a '5' in there. 

Assuming that the black end is the multiplier, then my crystal ball says maybe 15uH, but yes, unless you can find a body code reference, the only way to be sure is to measure it. I've no idea if the main body colour has any relevance (or whether the black end is actually uH).

Assuming that's actually green and not e.g. blue. No telling with that underexposed picture.

I do wonder why is it so difficult for people to check the photo they took and verify that it is exposed properly, with enough light and actually having the relevant bits in focus? And if it is not OK, retake the picture? This seems to be an universal problem, despite pretty much everyone having an expensive smartphone with cameras that would put DSLRs from a few years ago to shame.

[registereduser]

* janoc gets out a crystal ball, gazes into it for 5 minutes and then: "100nH! That is for sure 100nH!"

...
If you want to know the inductance, desolder it and measure it.

Well I very much doubt that it would be 100nH, whichever direction you read it, it's got a green dot so there's a '5' in there. 

Assuming that the black end is the multiplier, then my crystal ball says maybe 15uH, but yes, unless you can find a body code reference, the only way to be sure is to measure it. I've no idea if the main body colour has any relevance (or whether the black end is actually uH).

Assuming that's actually green and not e.g. blue. No telling with that underexposed picture.

I do wonder why is it so difficult for people to check the photo they took and verify that it is exposed properly, with enough light and actually having the relevant bits in focus? And if it is not OK, retake the picture? This seems to be an universal problem, despite pretty much everyone having an expensive smartphone with cameras that would put DSLRs from a few years ago to shame.

I'm sorry my phone is not up to your standards, it is all I could afford. First dot is maroon, I guess the second dot is dark green, then big black 'dot' or whatever covers whole side.

Here is another picture, this is as good as I can get.

[janoc]

I'm sorry my phone is not up to your standards, it is all I could afford.

Please go and re-read the comment you are quoting.

I am pretty certain even a cheap phone from years ago can take a well lit and reasonably in focus photo unless you have a millimeter of finger grease on the lens. That's not a function of the phone but of the person holding it.

Here is another picture, this is as good as I can get.

That's quite a bit better. Sufficient light is important if one needs to identify colors.

First dot is maroon, I guess the second dot is dark green, then big black 'dot' or whatever covers whole side.

That might be 15uH (brown-green-black), as Gyro said, but no telling without knowing what is the model number/manufacturer of it and not knowing what is it used for in that circuit (some LC tank/filter given that it seems to have a cap in parallel?). If you need to know, desolder it and measure it.

[Gyro]

From the diagram that Neomys Sapiens posted, it looks like they follow an E12 series (I can't see bog standard inductors going to E24) so I think the only value with green as the second digit is 15 (or some decade multiple).