AC fan motors being BLDC or PSC motors really depends on manufacturer. Daiken has been BLDC since at least 1980 for pretty much the entire range, putting a 24VDC power supply into the indoor unit to operate it, but other manufacturers have stayed with the motor they had, PSC. The motors though all are nearly identical in dimensions and shaft, plus all have compliant rubber mountings, along with the cylinder blower having compliant rubber bonding both sides for the drive and non drive end, and almost all use the same styles of NDE bearing, a sintered oilite bush or a self lubricating nylon bush in rubber. Low noise, and low vibration as long as it is clean. Speed control is generally noise free on both, the BLDC has speed control with a 0-5V input from the controller, and the PSC has triac speed control on the board, or has a few tappings and optically controlled triacs or small relays to give 3 or 4 speeds. Pretty much the only noise is the air flowing, and for the outdoor units almost all, except for the more expensive inverter types, the fan motor is a PSC motor with at most 2 speeds, simply because it is rugged and durable in extremes of temperature.
The hotel AC units that are noisy I will say are all window wall boxes, where the biggest problem is the fan motor has to drive both fans, and has no rubber noise damping at all, and is on a resonant steel plate, with the compressor being on rubber, but with time the rubber goes hard, as it is running hot all the time. As well service is never done, they might pull the filter out and clean it, but unless you pull the entire unit, take it outside and wash it down with a hose, it will clog up with time, especially as they use the condensor coil to evaporate the water pulled out from the evaporator, so as to avoid having a drain connection.
You used to get the drain kit with the units, but they removed it, along with the hole in the pan, so as to save the cost of putting in the drain, which also means the compressor sits in water, and the fan slings it into the condenser coil ,rotting it from the inside out, so after 5 years, when the compressor warranty is up, you need to replace the unit if you actually want cooling, as the fins are all rotted away on the inner layer, and clogging up the outer.
Split units come with drains for both indoor and outdoor, as the heat pump versions need it, and thus you get it for both, as the only difference between them manufacturing wise is the reversing valve and the extra wire in the cord kit, and in most cases you just get the heat pump version anyway, for the same price. Do not need the heat pump simply take the remote, and change the option bit using the remote, to the non heat pump version, and get cooling only. Noisy units are generally not serviced, and the drain pan is pretty easy to remove off the indoor unit, and then wash it, blow out the drain line, and then wash off the coil with coil cleaning detergent (not acid or alkali coil cleaner, neutral so you do not rot it), pull the drum fan out and wash it clean, and wash the outer housing along with the filters. One hour job to strip, wash and reinstall, and only a dozen screws typically to remove for the lot.