What did you buy today? Post your latest purchase!

[JoeN]

Here is what I got though I didn't purchase it or even ask for it.  Barely fit in the mail box.  I bought a couple of full reels of trannies from them and they apparently now think I am a serious buyer.  I had no idea companies still killed trees for this purpose.   1600+ pages.

[george graves]

I've got smoke absorber unit today for my homelab. A long overdue piece of gear. I don't solder that much at home, but still, it's cheaper to pay once for the absorber, than pay later to doctors...

That looks awesome - but with a cat that's always in the lab, that thing would be clogged in about a week! 

[Watth]

I've got smoke absorber unit today for my homelab. A long overdue piece of gear. I don't solder that much at home, but still, it's cheaper to pay once for the absorber, than pay later to doctors...

That looks awesome - but with a cat that's always in the lab, that thing would be clogged in about a week! 

Protip: use the cat as a filter.

[TerraHertz]

A bunch of Arduino stuff related to 3D printers. I knew these kind of boards were getting cheap, but hadn't realized HOW cheap.
Great, the odd-shaped pic attachment works. Colors are posterized because I coded it as 16 color palette PNG, for smallest file size while keeping the text clean.

[Cubdriver]

I added three 'new' boatanchors to my collection-o-crap, further ensuring that my house will not blow away in a strong wind.  (They do, however, likely make it MORE likely to simply collapse...)

A pair of old HPs and a GenRad followed me home from the museum today.

First, an HP 202A Low Frequency Function Generator; this one has a pre-1960 serial number:





Second, an HP 650A Test Oscillator; this has a 1962 serial number:




And lastly, a GenRad 1001-A Standard Signal Generator.  This one I've no idea as to the vintage of as my experience with GR is very limited, but from reading I've done, based on the meter shape it's fifties era production:




The HPs are definitely in need of some serious TLC (the frequency adjustment of the 202A is binding and the amplitude adjustment pot on the 650A turns all the way around and makes scraping noises that pots in my experience should not make), but everything on the GR seems to turn very smoothly and switch as it should.  Lord only knows when I'll get to them, but they're now in the queue...

-Pat

[VK5RC]

Pat, great haul!   Love the old HP, does that have the light bulb the freq control circuit?
Rob

[BravoV]

Finally, after waiting for years, scored for $40 a used variable autotransformer or variac or slide regulator (named by the manucfacturer)  .

It says made in Japan, not sure about it's quality, so dirty that I had to tear it down.

[Cubdriver]

Pat, great haul!   Love the old HP, does that have the light bulb the freq control circuit?
Rob

Rob-

The 650A uses the lamp stabilization in the first four ranges (x10 thru x10k); x100k & x1M use a separate oscillator without a lamp. 

The 202A doesn't have a lamp; its signal source is a bistable multivibrator circuit, the output of which it then integrates to get a triangle wave which is further folded, spindled and mutilated to obtain a sine wave.  It's distortion is only rated to be <1% on all but the highest range, which is spec'd at <2%.  I think its 'claim to fame' is mainly that it goes as low as 0.008 Hz (125 sec/cycle).  Its maximum output frequency is only 1.2kHz.

These should be fascinating to play around with.

-Pat

[nanofrog]

Ain't that cheap, bit over 700$usd.

Thanks. 

Pricing is similar to Hakko here in the US with a single segmented hose (i.e. FJ430 using the EEVBlog discount at TEquipment = $640.39). Primary difference being that the current Hakko model uses a plastic housing rather than metal. Better to wait for an older HJ3100 IMHO. 

Protip: use the cat as a filter.

That's just EVIL!  Funny as hell, but EVIL!

Besides, I'd never do that with my lab assistant as he'd clog the damn thing too fast (really fine fur), and I'm a cheap bastard. 

[eripaha]

200-Watt 220/240V to 110/120V AC Step Down Transformer

I intend to power a 60W embroidery machine with it

I wonder how trustworthy those things are, aiui they are designed for light duty devices like shavers.

I prefer to use these step down transformers to power my American gear, they run for years perfectly and are built like tanks in a full metal case.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/120w-240-120v-isolated-stepdown-transformer/p/MF1080

I believe the one i bought is just a transformer and the 200W limit comes from the amount of heat the casing can dissipate. I am not 100% certain of this so any input or experiences people might have are welcomed.

It says on the embroidery machine that it is 110V's and i imported it from USA. I have feeling it would work just as well with 230V's but it being expensive piece of a kit i dont wanna risk it.

[bingo600]

Metcal MX talon system w. 5 tips , a stand (Thanx Kev) & a MX500P PSU

Nice addition to my existing system

/Bingo

[Watth]

Metcal MX talon system w. 5 tips , a stand (Thanx Kev) & a MX500P PSU

Nice addition to my existing system

/Bingo

I couldn't see any soldering station, was totally hypnotized by your tablecloth.

[TerraHertz]

60 small plastic lenses. For Au$6.96 total.
Search ebay.com.au: LED Light 23mm Convex Lens PMMA.
Listings all say 23mm dia, but the lens is actually 21mm diameter, with a small projecting rim.

Some of these are for a microscope LED-lighting project. Which has been stalled for a while since the only cheap lenses I could find were all much larger, for 50W LEDs. These ones suit the small 10W LEDs, and allow packing 4 of them on small fan-cooled heatsinks.

20161214 edit to add 2nd pic - a few more bits and pieces recently, for a future larger 3D printer (sort of) project. Just building up stock for now.
Does anyone know of a Sydney seller of the 20 and 40mm square T-slot extrusions? I can buy from overseas, but only in quite short cut lengths. For general pottering, it's better to buy in original lengths; 4 to 7 meters. But so far no luck.

And more. 3rd pic. Some charge-protection-converter modules for 18650 batteries.
In the post. Now I wait.

TP4056 Charge And Discharge Protection Module
Input voltage: DC5V
Charge cutoff voltage: 4.2V ±1%
Charge maximum output current: 1.2A
5 for $3.49

FC-96 1A 5V Lin-ion Charger and Protection Module
Charging cut-off voltage:4.2V ±1%
Battery over-discharge protection voltage: 2.5V
5 for $3.39

DD1205 1-6V to 5V buck boost DC DC converter
Input voltage DC 1 ~ 6V, output DC 5V(+-6%)
Long time maximum output current: 1000mA
Working frequency 1MHZ. Efficiency 60%-85%
2 for $4.49

[sainter]

Bought Dremel Versatip today. More for quick use on heat shrink tube, some soldering off the site. Maybe some DIY. But man does it produce heat. Like a jet starting.

[Sbampato12]

Not exactly a purchase, but more like an exchange.

I've gave my Weller WD1 + WSP80 iron, in exchange to this Data Precision 8200.

The picture is just a rapid turn-on, to check things up (i've used my most recent cal multmeter), 2 digits less than the calibrator.

[apelly]

20161214 edit to add 2nd pic - a few more bits and pieces recently, for a future larger 3D printer (sort of) project.

Who's your screw dealer? Every time I've looked, I either can't find what I want, or the price is a bit of a piss take.

[Vgkid]

Not exactly a purchase, but more like an exchange.

I've gave my Weller WD1 + WSP80 iron, in exchange to this Data Precision 8200.

The picture is just a rapid turn-on, to check things up (i've used my most recent cal multmeter), 2 digits less than the calibrator.

Nice trade. i always wondered how those newer Wellers are.

[VK5RC]

The perfect car for a Learner driver (my daughter), all brakes, safety cage and minimal horsepower, getting retro-cool (almost).

[aargee]

Now all you need is a hat and a pipe... 

[McBryce]

My Maynuo M9710 arrived last night. While unpacking it I noticed it rattled... not a good sign. I opened it up and found they'd given me a "bonus screw" inside. I checked everywhere and the screw hasn't fallen out of any heatsink / transformer / casing etc. On close inspection under the microscope it doesn't look like the screw has ever been used, so I'll assume it's a spare.
The build quality is absolutely top notch and there's no sign of fake / dodgy parts inside. Passes all selftests and works fine. Strangely, it came in a double box like Rigol does, but the outer box was an iTech 8511 box?

I'll be giving it a full test over the Christmas break.

McBryce.

[nanofrog]

I've gave my Weller WD1 + WSP80 iron, in exchange to this Data Precision 8200.

Nice trade. i always wondered how those newer Wellers are.

I've the same setup with an additional iron (WMP) and WDH20T stand (connects to the WD1 to fully utilize the setback features; works with both irons).

Performance on both irons is excellent IME (good thermal recovery). For example, I can solder at 500F without being on the joint too long (assuming I'm not soldering over a ground plane).

And as you're in the US, you should give the Hakko FX-951 serious consideration (it uses cartridge tips, but they're not expensive; ~$11 for common profiles/shapes). Simply put, it's an amazing value as well as an excellent performer. Another benefit is the thickness of the plating on Hakko's tips is such that tips will last for a decade with simple care (keep it clean & tinned).

Between the two, I'd go for the Hakko. Unfortunately, it wasn't out yet when I bought what I'm currently using.

Another brand to consider would be Ersa if you're after a really good station that doesn't use cartridge tips (their tips are also very well made).

FWIW, I mention the tip thickness as Weller has had some QC issues with the LT series & ET series tips that are made in Bosnia or Mexico respectively. A quick check of the good vs. bad tips I've gotten, it's ~33% (i.e. the plating sloughs off or is cracked).  Their tips made in the US, Germany, or Japan don't have these issues.

[VK3DRB]

Bought one of these today...

http://www.mektronics.com.au/specials/jbc-digital-lead-free-solder-station-standard-handpiece.html

Got an extra 0.4mm bent tip and negotiated a further $50 off and free shipping .

These are terrific irons. They are an order of magnitude better than classic Hakkos, Wellers etc and the tips last a long, long time. We got one for work and "I was so impressed, I bought the company". No, rather I bought an iron for myself. Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten.

These irons have a USB port for software updates etc. If the iron had Wifi, it could be advertised as the world's first true Wifi hotspot.

[Sbampato12]

I've gave my Weller WD1 + WSP80 iron, in exchange to this Data Precision 8200.

Nice trade. i always wondered how those newer Wellers are.

I've the same setup with an additional iron (WMP) and WDH20T stand (connects to the WD1 to fully utilize the setback features; works with both irons).

Performance on both irons is excellent IME (good thermal recovery). For example, I can solder at 500F without being on the joint too long (assuming I'm not soldering over a ground plane).

And as you're in the US, you should give the Hakko FX-951 serious consideration (it uses cartridge tips, but they're not expensive; ~$11 for common profiles/shapes). Simply put, it's an amazing value as well as an excellent performer. Another benefit is the thickness of the plating on Hakko's tips is such that tips will last for a decade with simple care (keep it clean & tinned).

Between the two, I'd go for the Hakko. Unfortunately, it wasn't out yet when I bought what I'm currently using.

Another brand to consider would be Ersa if you're after a really good station that doesn't use cartridge tips (their tips are also very well made).

FWIW, I mention the tip thickness as Weller has had some QC issues with the LT series & ET series tips that are made in Bosnia or Mexico respectively. A quick check of the good vs. bad tips I've gotten, it's ~33% (i.e. the plating sloughs off or is cracked).  Their tips made in the US, Germany, or Japan don't have these issues.

I've been using WD1 + WMP for almost a decade. I've changed more tips because needing different shapes than wear out.
Recently I've bought a second hand WR 3M, with hot air and a dessoldering irons too. Thats because I've made this exchange of my WD1.

Those things about weller tips made in Bosnia and Mexico, I've saw something like that too. Fortunatelly I always manage to find Germany and Japan made tips around here. I've never got any from US.

[ElektroQuark]

Quote from: VK5RC on Today at 07:39:01

The perfect car for a Learner driver (my daughter), all brakes, safety cage and minimal horsepower, getting retro-cool (almost).

You forgot "lightweight".

[TerraHertz]

20161214 edit to add 2nd pic - a few more bits and pieces recently, for a future larger 3D printer (sort of) project.

Who's your screw dealer? Every time I've looked, I either can't find what I want, or the price is a bit of a piss take.

I'm lucky to live quite close to these great guys:
Premier Fasteners, 3 Ladbroke St, Milperra 2214  ph: 02 9772 1888
http://www.premierfasteners.com.au/

They have a HUGE warehouse full of fasteners, and are usually happy to take you for a walk in it to find that obscure thing. It's quite amusing to take odd screws from some old electronics restoration in there, to see if they have any.  About 50/50 they do/don't.


A couple of others:
The Stainless Shop. 170 Taren Point Road Taren Point. NSW 2229 ph: (02) 9525 1777
 https://www.thestainlessshop.com.au


http://www.smallparts.com.au/
PO Box 2161, MANSFIELD, Queensland 4122
3239 Old Cleveland Road,
Capalaba West (Brisbane Southside),
Queensland 4157
(9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Phones from 9:30am)
Fax 07 3245 1017 (International +61 7 3245 1017)
Phone:07 3245 7977 (International +61 7 3245 7977)
http://www.smallparts.com.au/store/categories/
sales@smallparts.com.au