A bigger risk than the lack of earthing in lighting circuits is the existence of the ES lamp base
No contest
and the aussie bayonet push and twist socket isn't any better, but easier than screwing around
I'll bet a lot of dim bulb testers come poor mans current limiters out there, have the active line wired to the bulb socket and or bypass switch,
their tinkering owners just begging to be zapped real good one day,
or unattended kids messing about in the workshop sticking their finger in the socket, or curious cat, dog, or lizard sticking in the tongue
FWIW and I may not be the first with the idea..
but my dim bulb tester/s are wired with the confirmed Neutral, to the ES and or bayonet base, not the Active.
It works the same in use afaict and little to no chance for a zap with no lamp attached, assuming that's the only item handled or touched by accident
i.e. you would be touching an exposed earthed Neutral socket whilst you are earth/grounded yourself, be it on concrete, tiled floor or grounded bench/devices etc
so in theory and practice, assuming everything in the mix is correctly wired, nothing should happen, not even a tingle
and it's what two multimeters agreed on..
Add to that, for switching in the DUT in or out, that switch MUST be a double pole type, so OFF really means OFF
If you play with fire and really need a no brainer OFF OFF OFF, consider an addon three pole switch to kill all three wires, placed wherever you see fit
Now HONESTLY:
how many members here have their dim bulb testers wired with the Active 120 or 240 volt line to the socket base ?
If I'm wrong about all this, please correct
but 'Neutral to socket base' works for me and no dramas yet with zaps, RCD breaker trips,
or current limiting performance as I've done A-B tests with flipped polarity to confirm identical performance,
and no earth/neutral leakage issues passed on upstream or downstream
YMMV + EMMV applies
and everyones fav
Disclaimer 'DO NOT try this at home, and if stupid enough to attempt it, you do so at YOUR OWN RISK'