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[Satbeginner]

My power supplies are both Chinese.

The linear 30V, 30V and 5V one has current limiting.
But I changed both voltage adjust potentiometers to proper 10-turn ones, so now at least I can get the values I want.

The single 60V one is a switch mode power supply I use to test solar, grid connected inverters. This one too has current limiting.

Un saludo,

Leo

[Luminax]

Is this thread still alive?

Submitting Kikusui PMX18-2A into the mosh pit

I have tons other like Kenwood, GW-Instek etc... but none that I care to USE as of now... why drive a Lada when you have a BWM sporty 

[PTR_1275]

The Kikusui power supplies are nice, but it bothers me (probably more than it should) that the dart terminal is between the pos and neg terminals. This means you can't use leads like the Pomona 2bc / 2ba double banana plugs, which I have a lot of and use all the time.

Is it a linear psu, or switching?

[ted572]

GOPHERT CPS-3205E Power Supply:
I have attached the Calibration Procedure and Specifications for the GOPHERT CPS-3205E.

By the way I added a small piece of thin (~ 0.03" thick) dark light filter (sheet stock) material between the LED Display on the PCB and the Front Panel on my units.  This is to increase the contrast between the LED segments that are ON vs those that are OFF.  This greatly improves the display so that you essentially only see the LED Display's active segments. This is a modification that could/should be done in all of the GOPHERT Power Supply models.  I got samples of Sunlight Filter Sheet material from a store that sells and installs this stuff on home and commercial building windows to block uV, bright sunlight, etc.
I have had my CPS-3205E for at least a year and it has been very reliable.  It is a awesome Power Supply for it's capability, size, weight, accuracy, and cost (~ 75 USD eBay).

Edit:  Added picture (not my unit) of CPS-3205E as supplied without the LED Display Dark Filter I added.

[Heiko1052]

Hello, on my Danica TPS20 (with analog Voltage/Amp display) the 5 Volt dc is working ok  . The adjustable 0-10 Voltage and 0-30 Voltage both gives an pernament output of - 0,531 volts  . Does someone has any idee what this could be. I don't have an maintenance cirquit drawing). The transformer (ac)  power is ok. Thanks, regards, Henk

[BravoV]

Henk, suggesting you to post a new thread regarding your problem, rather than in here, as it wont get exposed too much.

[badvoc]

Hi Everyone,

I purchased this ISO-TECH IPS-4303S DC Power Supply for my hobbyist electronics lab. I initially found myself confused by the interface, but as i used it more i finally got use to it, and its my go-to PSU now. I did a video introduction to this DC Power Supply on my YouTube channel below if your interested to find out more.

https://youtu.be/HW80mMk9wE8

Regards

Badvoc

[mtdoc]

Badvoc,

That looks identical to the GW Instek GPD-4303s. I bet you could use their free remote software via the USB port.

The difference in current between the 2 ranges at the end of your video is likely due to different burden voltages. I believe Dave has a video explaining burden voltage. Try setting your PSU to constant current mode and then check the two ranges. Note whether their is then a different voltage displayed on your PSU.

Also, if you have a DSO, you may want to check for overshoot when the output is turned on. Especially on the far right fixed output channel. Some of the Instek GPD PSUs suffer from this.

[badvoc]

Badvoc,

That looks identical to the GW Instek GPD-4303s. I bet you could use their free remote software via the USB port.

The difference in current between the 2 ranges at the end of your video is likely due to different burden voltages. I believe Dave has a video explaining burden voltage. Try setting your PSU to constant current mode and then check the two ranges. Note whether their is then a different voltage displayed on your PSU.

Hi mtdoc, thanks for the info, i will check that out Dave's video on Burden voltage and your suggestion on CC mode, thanks again. Btw your spot on with the brand GW Instek, i bought this from RS Components and ISO-TECH brand appears to be an OEM brand under RS, although they are switching to their own RS Pro brand these days i have recently noticed.

[BBBbbb]

Hi Everyone,

I purchased this ISO-TECH IPS-4303S DC Power Supply for my hobbyist electronics lab. I initially found myself confused by the interface, but as i used it more i finally got use to it, and its my go-to PSU now. I did a video introduction to this DC Power Supply on my YouTube channel below if your interested to find out more.

It's always nice to have user reviews on YT, and thanks for the effort, but to make these PSU reviews really useful think about including (buying) a scope as mtdoc suggested.

[badvoc]

It's always nice to have user reviews on YT, and thanks for the effort, but to make these PSU reviews really useful think about including (buying) a scope as mtdoc suggested.

Thank you BBBbbb, and good advice regarding a scope! 

[Heiko1052]

Hi Blackdog. I'm a Dutchman to. I posted a problem with my TPS 20 PSU. I like it if You read it, and maybe You can answere my question. Regards, Heiko1052.

[whitevamp]

the one i use the most is an old hp 6214 .. need to get a different one though.

[Housedad]

Out of four power supplies, it seems that this one is the one I use the most.  Maybe I just like the meters more, or old stuff feels more comfortable for an old dude. 

GW Instek GPC-3020: The top one is used most.  Then I have the other two supplies, Instek GPD-3303s.

[t_ryner]

How much does it weigh? (Ps: that is a beautiful board layout!)

[Housedad]

If you mean the Instek GPC-3020, it is 15.4 lbs.   

My bench layout is shown here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/whats-your-work-benchlab-look-like-post-some-pictures-of-your-lab/msg1179703/#msg1179703

Or did you mean the board layout of someone else's PSU?

[ManuelMcLure]

I'm a beginner, so they haven't gotten much use yet, but I have two homebrew power supplies. The larger one uses a 12V13A Cosel SMPS that goes directly to the binding posts to the left and the top set of PowerPoles and is also connected to the input of an AliExpress boost/buck CC/CV module that's rated 0-32V, 0-5A.

The smaller blue supply is a linear supply using an LM1085IT-ADJ. It's designed for digital circuits and can be switched between 3.3V, 5V and an adjustable setting between 1.25V and about 6V for testing brownout conditions. This was my first attempt at designing and producing a PCB so I'm pretty happy with the results.

The last picture is my new acquisition - I just got this yesterday. I haven't even opened it up yet, much less plugged it in. I'm planning on replacing the old electrolytic caps in it before applying power, just in case. But when I saw the picture, I had to have it. How could I say no to that face?

[Cassiuspcb]

[Cassiuspcb]

2x Power designs 6050C
1x HP 6263B

100% made in the USA!

[djos]

I recently replaced my ghetto power supply with a chinese special - which has turned out to be pretty decent for $69 AUD. 

It's 0-30V & 0-5A

[Rolo]

My second post in this thread, on September 20 2014 my favorite PSU was a Delta Elektronika E030-3. This one is gone from the bench now and in its place is the GWInstek GPD-4303S. Great unit, four channels but only a bit bigger footprint compared to the Delta.

@Badvoc, this is the same unit as your ISO-TECH IPS-4303S, but the channel led's on the display are different, I have a clear indication of wich channel is controlled. 

[emax]

I can not really say which one I use most. Actually, each of my PSUs has its own work to do. Over the years I have most used this one, just because it is so very old.

It was my first PSU and I had build it myself - 35 years ago. I had no clue about design, no clue about electronics, there was no internet and no help far and wide. The only thing which was there, was an old transformer, a big 33000µF cap, a recitfier and some heatsinks.

So I looked for a schematic and scaled it to what I thought was sufficient. Since the only transistor I knew in that time was the 2n3055, I took a bunch of them and mounted them on the heatsinks I had, went for a case to 'Conrad', which was -I guess- so to say the german RadioShack. And so I tacked it all together. 

BUT: It worked out of the box. It still works after 35 years, and you can short it at 25 amps. It stands like a rock with no thermal issues, for an hour as well as for a day or longer. If you switch it on, it sounds like a welding-transformer, and the noise intensifies under load.

I used it for cutting foam, charging car-batteries and everthing which neede a controlled voltage or current. I've no idea about ripple.  (and don't in fact want to know it).

I decided to make some photographs, and especially for eevblog I've taken it apart after 35 years to take some pictures for you.

Please, don't berate me for the "design". I was so proud of it and It did its job for more then three decades - and still does: I sometimes use it a a source for a 500W RC-airplane battery charger.

SInce then, I have bought other PSUs, which are of course much better. I will show the most important ones in another post.

The pictures show

1. Front view. Pots: voltage fine, voltage coarse, current
2. Rear view. Heatsinks for eight  2n3055
3. right side, heatsink for rectifier
4. Inside. 35 years in the dark ...
5. LM723, self-echted pcb, load-resistors
6. Transistor provisioning with load-resistors.
7. Front plate inside, volt meter, amp meter w. shunt.

[emax]

I have too many PSUs, but these are the other most important ones which I use really often or have a special relation with. 

First picture: With more income, I could afford a linear 2-channel supply, 2x40V/2.5A, separately, parallel or serial. I still have it in my workshop and use it for many purposes. In that time, it was a hell of money for me. I used this one most for my beginning electronic carreer (though I am still an analog-agnostic).

Second: A decade ago, I started with electric RC-airplanes. They are real power devices and slurp up to 200 Amps of current (even more, but these guys are a different league). So I needed a bigger supply for battery-charging. It is a switched supply from "Elektro Automatik", a german high-quality brand. The supply is frequently used for charging and can provide 0-80V with currents from 0-60A at a maximum output of 1500 Watts. To load two or more 22V LiPo batteries of 15Ah with up to 30A each is not unusual and is an easy exercise for this thing. VERY high quality, good old german engineering. Absolutely short-circuit-proof and with sense-inputs.

Third: For my work desk, I wanted a simple supply, this one delivers 0,5 to 32V, up to 2.8A. There are additional outputs with 5V and 12V. This little thingy is programmable with presets and is capable to run programmed sequences. For 128 Euro at Reichelt this is really good value for the money. The knobs are single digital-encoders, no fine/coarse separation, they only look like that but work ok. I use it often whenever I test something on the desk, arduinos, pocket-lights or whatsoever.

Fourth and fifth: My king of PSUs . With 10Kg of weight this is a real nugget (pun intended). I wanted four channels, programmability,  and high quality - of build and of output as well. Alone the name guarantees both. FWIW: specs are here.

In face of money-devaluation this was so to say an investment and a tax-saver as well. 

You can set electronic fuses which switch off any dependend channel you have configured if an overvoltage or -current occurs on one "co-fused"   channel. Of course, you can define arbitray signals for each single channel - independently. Every channel is capable of 0-32V and 0-10A, per channel limited to 160W. Total voltage in serial is 4x32V = 128V, total current in parallel is 4x10A = 40 Amps. The total device-limit of output is at 384W. Enough, I guess.

This thing has no touch-screen, no klicki-bunti buttons, no unnecessary gimmicks. It's a bone-dry machine and just does exactly what it's supposed to do. And it's worth every cent.

I love this hulk. 

[JacquesBBB]

My power supplies are both Chinese.

The linear 30V, 30V and 5V one has current limiting.
But I changed both voltage adjust potentiometers to proper 10-turn ones, so now at least I can get the values I want.

Which value are the 10-turn pots you put in. Did you changed the original 6.8k to 10 k ?

[capt bullshot]

It was my first PSU and I had build it myself - 35 years ago. I had no clue about design, no clue about electronics, there was no internet and no help far and wide.

Is it all the same with us EE's? Must have been around 1988 when I built my own lab supply - from similar prerequisites than yours.
I had a transformer, some electrolytic caps, fan heatsink and a few other components as a starting point. So I made this one from scratch:


The enclosure and digital meters were from Conrad, other parts purchased at a local electronics shop at Darmstadt (where I was an EE student then). All the electronics was build on perfboard, I didn't bother to draw a schematic diagram. Nobody told me a 250VA / 2x24V is not sufficient for a dual channel 24V / 5A lab supply, so built it to this spec. And, yes it worked. One can overload the transformer, I've attached a thermal sensor to it to keep it from overheating. I can't remember the details, but some way I've made a output stage out of 2 2N3773 and a BD139 that required only a bit more than the transistors Vbe drop to regulate, so the 24V goal was reached (with some ripple at max. current). I vaguely remember charge pump based auxiliary voltages of 5V below GND and 5V above input rail to do the trick.
The fan is temperature controlled (on/off) by temperature sensors mounted on the heat sinks, same sensors shut down the output in case of over temperature (this happens if you short the output at max. current setting).

The thing served me well until I found my way into TEA a few years ago, starting to buy fancy power supplies like the HP6632 and a quite unknown "Powerbox" that replaced my unit. It's still alive, but over the years some quirks found their way into it (e.g. the "---" display on one of the digital meters, or the not-always-working current limiting on one channel). Quite difficult to repair, since I never made a schematic and one needs to remove a lot of single wire to board connections to access the perf boards and the electronics. The voltage displays have a special feature: Auto-ranging between 9.99V and 99.9V fs range for better display resolution at lower voltages.