Server Rack LED Lighting setup (and, LED tape running 50 degrees above ambient?)

[XOIIO]

Hey all, thought I'd share a quick video of my server setup which I just added some LED lighting to, this uses some 800-900 lumen LED tape, and it worked out fantastically. I have some normally closed red switches coming, and I'll rig it up so that the lights are switched on automatically whenever you open a door, however for now it's just on all the time (but I leave it unplugged as there's no sense using more power for no reason). I mention that I got normally closed ones so that I won't need any extra circuitry, unfortunately it seems that I will need to use a transistor to take the load since the reed switches are only rated at 500 miliamps, and the strips will be drawing about 800ma

https://youtu.be/owaZ5XRUUos

Now, this LED tape has a rated operating temp of -25 to +60 degrees Celsius. While operating, it reaches a temperature of 70 degrees, which seems excessive to me, I haven't used LED tape before so I'm not sure if this is acceptable. It certainly feels like it would reduce the lifespan of the LED's, but it could very well be within the safe temperature range. The room has a temperature of 20 degrees or so on average.

On the server side of things, this is the setup.

HP Proliant DL380 G4 (main server)
2 x 3.2ghz Xeon Processors
6GB Ram
2 x 146gb HDD in raid 1 (for OS redundancy)
4 x 300gb HDD in raid 0 (for storage)

Dell Poweredge 860 (latest addition)
1 x 2.66ghz Xeon (newer generation, so better than the others in some areas)
4GB Ram
1 x 80gb HDD (OS)
1 x 1tb HDD (Storage)


I have two more servers off to the side, and one other that I likely won't be able to sell, but I don't have the specs on hand.

2 x Dell Poweredge 1850 (for future use, all set to just hook in and boot up)
2 x 3.2ghz Xeon
4gb Ram
2 x 146gb HDD (independent for a bit more storage)

I also have a pull out display/keyboard combo (which can also have a dvd drive in it), and a network switch I cleaned up internally that some of you might recall from an earlier thread.

I've also got two rack mount UPS units which need new batteries but should be able to keep things running for a decent amount of time during blackouts. I need the rack mount kits for those and the other servers before I can put them in, so that will have to wait until I find a new job.

I've got these computers running various projects with BOINC, I used to use SETI@home, but apparently that is a project designed for GPU's, so I chose a few which benefit from CPU power. I also have it tied into gridcoin to make beacoups bux (so far a whopping 40 cents!). I've also got teamspeak set up on one, and use them as NAS servers.

[XOIIO]

Alright, well looked up the same type of LED online a couple days ago (forgot about this thread since there we no replies) but the junction temperature is 115 Celsius, so it seems that 70 would be acceptable, of course these are likely knockoff LED's.

[MK14]

If it was me, I'd FIX or get FIXED the original light/switch, end of problem.

If you want to play around with LEDs, then fine, good luck.

Imagine you were upgrading one or both cpus, in one of those servers. You also needed to add a multiple of 4 or 6, registered ECC RAM modules and find out why the rear VGA port, does not always work.

Are you trying to tell me, you would do it, with that "*lighting*" ?

On the other hand, they are at least thief proof. As the thief, would not be able to see where the screws are, to remove the server(s). They would probably be injured by the dodgy looking AC adapter, which may be missing vital safety components, and explode, in front of them, after the reed switch(s) activate.

[SL4P]

Wrong forum -->. Instructables

[XOIIO]

Wrong forum -->. Instructables

The main point was to check with people who have used LED tape before to see if this sort of temperature is normal or not, which apparently nobody out of the 173 people who read this bothered to measure.

If it was me, I'd FIX or get FIXED the original light/switch, end of problem.

If you want to play around with LEDs, then fine, good luck.

Imagine you were upgrading one or both cpus, in one of those servers. You also needed to add a multiple of 4 or 6, registered ECC RAM modules and find out why the rear VGA port, does not always work.

Are you trying to tell me, you would do it, with that "*lighting*" ?

On the other hand, they are at least thief proof. As the thief, would not be able to see where the screws are, to remove the server(s). They would probably be injured by the dodgy looking AC adapter, which may be missing vital safety components, and explode, in front of them, after the reed switch(s) activate.

The switch itself is fine, or at least seems that way, It works for a short, random duration, then does not work again for quite a long time, the closest thing it resembles thermal protection, which obviously it does not have.

Anyways, we are renting here, so we can't go tearing into the wall to replace wiring.

I would have done this setup anyways as the rack had a large metal roof, which blocks most light.

The lighting (not sure why you have it in quotations as that is what it is) is more than adequate to service the insides of the servers, but if I need to work on anything for a long duration, I take it out of the rack and set it up on a table somewhere where I have a bit more room.

[MK14]

If it was me, I'd FIX or get FIXED the original light/switch, end of problem.

If you want to play around with LEDs, then fine, good luck.

Imagine you were upgrading one or both cpus, in one of those servers. You also needed to add a multiple of 4 or 6, registered ECC RAM modules and find out why the rear VGA port, does not always work.

Are you trying to tell me, you would do it, with that "*lighting*" ?

On the other hand, they are at least thief proof. As the thief, would not be able to see where the screws are, to remove the server(s). They would probably be injured by the dodgy looking AC adapter, which may be missing vital safety components, and explode, in front of them, after the reed switch(s) activate.


The switch itself is fine, or at least seems that way, It works for a short, random duration, then does not work again for quite a long time, the closest thing it resembles thermal protection, which obviously it does not have.

Anyways, we are renting here, so we can't go tearing into the wall to replace wiring.

I would have done this setup anyways as the rack had a large metal roof, which blocks most light.

The lighting (not sure why you have it in quotations as that is what it is) is more than adequate to service the insides of the servers, but if I need to work on anything for a long duration, I take it out of the rack and set it up on a table somewhere where I have a bit more room.

[/quote]

The {lighting} was in quotes, because I at the time did NOT consider it a proper form of lighting. But consider it an opinion, so don't in any way worry, if your opinion is different.
I'm use to "old school" lighting, such a permanent, over head lights, with wall light switches, and somewhat set in my ways.

Now that you have explained the situation, I understand it a lot better.

It is hard for me to examine your server room, properly and judge it properly, without physically being there. Which obviously is NOT going to happen.

Please don't take this as a criticism of your video. But current video camera equipment (less so, with extremely expensive professional movie maker equipment), makes it hard for me to really see how good your new led lighting strips are behaving.

I'm NOT the youngest of people, and technology is changing at a phenomenal pace. I own up to the fact that at the moment I have zero LED lighting, where I live. Currently it is mostly compact CFL lighting. But when I run out of such bulbs (not that many left), and as they burn out. I plan to replace them all with LED ones.

It is an interesting idea, to use LED strip lights in that way. But I don't get the impression, that the quality of the ones that you have just got, is all that good. They appear to be rather ropey and poorly made.

If your LEDs are running too hot (I'm NOT sure, if they are or not), it would probably considerably shorten their lifetime. But since the lifetime of LEDs is usually huge, and you are not going to use the strips for that long (I assume). You could well be fine.

[XOIIO]

If it was me, I'd FIX or get FIXED the original light/switch, end of problem.

If you want to play around with LEDs, then fine, good luck.

Imagine you were upgrading one or both cpus, in one of those servers. You also needed to add a multiple of 4 or 6, registered ECC RAM modules and find out why the rear VGA port, does not always work.

Are you trying to tell me, you would do it, with that "*lighting*" ?

On the other hand, they are at least thief proof. As the thief, would not be able to see where the screws are, to remove the server(s). They would probably be injured by the dodgy looking AC adapter, which may be missing vital safety components, and explode, in front of them, after the reed switch(s) activate.

*snip*

Alright, fair enough points made. I too would prefer proper lighting, but honestly in that room it would require adding in one or two extra fixtures, it's just crappy even when the light does occasionally work. I can also understand your desire to stick with the tech that you are familiar with/have experience with and know the quality of, I'm like that myself in many ways.

I also agree I could use better camera equipment, sadly that's not an option at this point in time, but it is certainly up there on the list of things I want to get. A phone just doesn't cut it for detailed things. Being able to lock the exposure would at least allow a better comparison of how much extra light it added in.

I am also concerned with the life of the LED's, even though they do have massively long lifespans, the temperature is still a bit concerning, though it is well below the junction temperature of the LED's, or at least comparable ones, I'm not sure if it would have much of an effect.  The tape is cheap enough, and they are not on 24/7 so even if it is too high it probably will not make a difference.

I'll probably replace that power supply with one that is higher quality as well, it is incredibly light, but I left it running with the full 5 meters for a decent amount of time (and also with the amount in the rack) and it didn't get particularly warm, though that doesn't speak for other aspects of it's quality.

The LED tape also would likely have appeared to be better quality if I had gotten the waterproof version, but I needed to go as cheap as possible with this. I imagine they would have to clean up any stray bits off the edges before coating it, or however they go about waterproofing it.

I've also used the LED lighting to retrofit an old exit sign since the incandescent bulbs were all burnt out, and it's much easier to just plug it in with a phone charger. The thermal characteristics seem to be the same, and even with less contact to the metal there don't appear to be any heat issues. This is on for much longer periods so it will act as a sort of test of the tape itself, though it is running at only 10 volts.

[MK14]

If it was me, I'd FIX or get FIXED the original light/switch, end of problem.

If you want to play around with LEDs, then fine, good luck.

Imagine you were upgrading one or both cpus, in one of those servers. You also needed to add a multiple of 4 or 6, registered ECC RAM modules and find out why the rear VGA port, does not always work.

Are you trying to tell me, you would do it, with that "*lighting*" ?

On the other hand, they are at least thief proof. As the thief, would not be able to see where the screws are, to remove the server(s). They would probably be injured by the dodgy looking AC adapter, which may be missing vital safety components, and explode, in front of them, after the reed switch(s) activate.

*snip*

Alright, fair enough points made. I too would prefer proper lighting, but honestly in that room it would require adding in one or two extra fixtures, it's just crappy even when the light does occasionally work. I can also understand your desire to stick with the tech that you are familiar with/have experience with and know the quality of, I'm like that myself in many ways.

I also agree I could use better camera equipment, sadly that's not an option at this point in time, but it is certainly up there on the list of things I want to get. A phone just doesn't cut it for detailed things. Being able to lock the exposure would at least allow a better comparison of how much extra light it added in.

I am also concerned with the life of the LED's, even though they do have massively long lifespans, the temperature is still a bit concerning, though it is well below the junction temperature of the LED's, or at least comparable ones, I'm not sure if it would have much of an effect.  The tape is cheap enough, and they are not on 24/7 so even if it is too high it probably will not make a difference.

I'll probably replace that power supply with one that is higher quality as well, it is incredibly light, but I left it running with the full 5 meters for a decent amount of time (and also with the amount in the rack) and it didn't get particularly warm, though that doesn't speak for other aspects of it's quality.

The LED tape also would likely have appeared to be better quality if I had gotten the waterproof version, but I needed to go as cheap as possible with this. I imagine they would have to clean up any stray bits off the edges before coating it, or however they go about waterproofing it.

I've also used the LED lighting to retrofit an old exit sign since the incandescent bulbs were all burnt out, and it's much easier to just plug it in with a phone charger. The thermal characteristics seem to be the same, and even with less contact to the metal there don't appear to be any heat issues. This is on for much longer periods so it will act as a sort of test of the tape itself, though it is running at only 10 volts.

The thing is LEDs (for lighting), is still relatively new, to everyone (just about). I'm still waiting for the quality of normal (plug into light sockets) type LED lighting, to become fully reliable (I'm not sure it is there yet, not far away by any means), and come down in price more.

i.e. Quality Bayonet/Screw/Edison base, 100W (approx) equivalent LED bulbs, for £5/$7, BUT in a quality make format.

By quality, I mean like the bulb that you can buy from a well known, quality brand (I'm not sure off hand what they are or will be, but think Phillips/Osram and stuff like that, or better).

Although the quality ones would be something like x2 to x3 the price of the cheapest ones, they WILL last the quoted 10,000 Hours (usually), will have quality/diffused/controlled light patterns and light colour frequencies/colour-distributions.
They also will be relatively safe, from accidentally getting electrocuted by touching them, or safe against becoming a fire hazard, etc
etc.

tl;dr
I'm waiting for LED lighting to get more mature, so that in about a year or two, I can heavily change over to them.

Law changes in Europe (many/most old style filament bulbs are illegal to buy, or something), forcing changes to low energy lighting or halogen types.

In principle, the LED (white) lighting is amazing, compared to the old filament bulb lights. Instead of around 1,000 or 2,000 hours life time, then can be tens of thousands of hours, life time. Instant switch on, and they can potentially use a small fraction of the power, saving lots of money for electricity bills.

Bright/powerful LED torches, are great for helping lightup your area to repairing/upgrading/etc computers/electronics, where the normal lighting is not that good.

There are a huge range of electronic components (and small built up items, such as your LED strip lights), available at usually amazingly low prices. I'm at a significant dilemma, as to what to do, with such available items.

Currently, I just about NEVER buy them (from China etc), because I am too worried about poor quality, fakes, not as specified specs, unsafe, fire-hazards etc etc.

E.g. A big pack of 250 White LEDs, for only a few £'s, including postage (hypothetical, but realistic).

Be careful about the "junction temperature". Datasheets, are usually referring to the temperature of the innermost die (where the LED light comes from). But that can be significantly higher, than the outer measured temperature. Especially if you can only access the outer plastic case. If there is any kind of metal (heatsink etc), going into the middle of the LED, then that may be giving you closer temperature readings, as regards the inner die/chip.

[XOIIO]

Just doing a reply to save on the wall of text.

I didn't even think about the difference between junction temperature and external temperature, I was measuring right on the phosphor but you are right, it could very well be much higher internally.

Household LED quality does vary quite a lot, I stay tuned to electronupdate to see how things are in the market, bigclivedotcom also does some, but not quite as in depth. Phillips certainly seems to be a leader, as well as CREE, with ge being a close third. They do have some very nice quality construction and even the cheaper ones are getting quite good.

I certainly would not trust an LED lamp straight from china, though the filament style bulbs do look quite nice. There is still a lot of variation/changes going on, but I have a feeling within a year or two, it will settle down a decent amount, and we will see more common designs. I definitely want to upgrade to LED in my room though, power saving and a massive increase in light (as well as being able to go with cool white instead of hideous warm white) will be a nice change.

[MK14]

Good point about the wall of text.

I also like bigclivedotcom, and have watched and enjoyed a number of his videos. I find his accent (even though I am in the UK), really nice, warm, captivating and interesting. Like a quality/classic radio presenter, from a long time ago. He also seems to know what he is talking about.

I've found it interesting, watching his investigations, into low cost, LED lighting bulbs and stuff. I'm pleased that he showed how dangerous (electrocution), they can be. Because it is a warning, to myself and others, NOT to cheap out on potentially safety related items.

I also really like LED torches. They are MASSIVELY better than the old torches, from many decades ago.
They use to only last a relatively short time, on big/expensive batteries, which could leak at times. The bulbs could wear out, after only a number of tens of hours (depends). The light was incredibly weak and non-bright (typically). Except perhaps VERY big ones, but even those were NOT that bright.
The modern ones are simply amazing. Even relatively small ones, with just 3x AAA cells, can be incredibly bright, and not just bright, it is not this horrible weak yellowish glow, from old/ancient torches. It is this superbright, pure solid white light. AMAZING!
The torch bulbs, last virtually forever (10,000..100,000 hours).

But I have found it is best to spend a fair bit on the torch, and to get a rather good brand and quality torch. I see them as mini-investments.

There are plenty of cheap torches, but I find that usually the battery holders/compartment and other parts, are rather unreliable. Sooner or later, the torch refuses to switch on, unless you bang it hard, or re-insert the batteries or something. I.e. They are partly useless quality.

Whereas my expensive/quality/branded torches, carry on working just great, for many, many years, and longer.
I pay (VERY) approximately $20 for a decent Torch, and usually that $20 was a discounted price, so that normally it would have been $30. But your mileage may vary.

[XOIIO]

Torches are one place where LED's are definitely amazing, I have a phenix eo5 flashlight, it's about the size of a AA battery, uses a AAA for power, and can output 85 lumens for 45 minutes. It's ridiculous.

It's going to last so long I can guarantee that the only reason I'll need to buy another is because I will lose the damn thing. I also have an LED maglight kicking around that still uses D cells but those are in my Geiger counter currently.

One application for LED's in the house to really shine is if you use batter backup power, and solar panels, you will get battery life that is orders of magnitude larger using LED's vs incandescents or CFL's.