If it was me, I'd FIX or get FIXED the original light/switch, end of problem.
If you want to play around with LEDs, then fine, good luck.
Imagine you were upgrading one or both cpus, in one of those servers. You also needed to add a multiple of 4 or 6, registered ECC RAM modules and find out why the rear VGA port, does not always work.
Are you trying to tell me, you would do it, with that "*lighting*" ?
On the other hand, they are at least thief proof. As the thief, would not be able to see where the screws are, to remove the server(s). They would probably be injured by the dodgy looking AC adapter, which may be missing vital safety components, and explode, in front of them, after the reed switch(s) activate.
*snip*
Alright, fair enough points made. I too would prefer proper lighting, but honestly in that room it would require adding in one or two extra fixtures, it's just crappy even when the light does occasionally work. I can also understand your desire to stick with the tech that you are familiar with/have experience with and know the quality of, I'm like that myself in many ways.
I also agree I could use better camera equipment, sadly that's not an option at this point in time, but it is certainly up there on the list of things I want to get. A phone just doesn't cut it for detailed things. Being able to lock the exposure would at least allow a better comparison of how much extra light it added in.
I am also concerned with the life of the LED's, even though they do have massively long lifespans, the temperature is still a bit concerning, though it is well below the junction temperature of the LED's, or at least comparable ones, I'm not sure if it would have much of an effect. The tape is cheap enough, and they are not on 24/7 so even if it is too high it probably will not make a difference.
I'll probably replace that power supply with one that is higher quality as well, it is incredibly light, but I left it running with the full 5 meters for a decent amount of time (and also with the amount in the rack) and it didn't get particularly warm, though that doesn't speak for other aspects of it's quality.
The LED tape also would likely have appeared to be better quality if I had gotten the waterproof version, but I needed to go as cheap as possible with this. I imagine they would have to clean up any stray bits off the edges before coating it, or however they go about waterproofing it.
I've also used the LED lighting to retrofit an old exit sign since the incandescent bulbs were all burnt out, and it's much easier to just plug it in with a phone charger. The thermal characteristics seem to be the same, and even with less contact to the metal there don't appear to be any heat issues. This is on for much longer periods so it will act as a sort of test of the tape itself, though it is running at only 10 volts.
The thing is LEDs (for lighting), is still relatively new, to everyone (just about). I'm still waiting for the quality of normal (plug into light sockets) type LED lighting, to become fully reliable (I'm not sure it is there yet, not far away by any means), and come down in price more.
i.e. Quality Bayonet/Screw/Edison base, 100W (approx) equivalent LED bulbs, for £5/$7, BUT in a quality make format.
By quality, I mean like the bulb that you can buy from a well known, quality brand (I'm not sure off hand what they are or will be, but think Phillips/Osram and stuff like that, or better).
Although the quality ones would be something like x2 to x3 the price of the cheapest ones, they WILL last the quoted 10,000 Hours (usually), will have quality/diffused/controlled light patterns and light colour frequencies/colour-distributions.
They also will be relatively safe, from accidentally getting electrocuted by touching them, or safe against becoming a fire hazard, etc
etc.
tl;dr
I'm waiting for LED lighting to get more mature, so that in about a year or two, I can heavily change over to them.
Law changes in Europe (many/most old style filament bulbs are illegal to buy, or something), forcing changes to low energy lighting or halogen types.
In principle, the LED (white) lighting is amazing, compared to the old filament bulb lights. Instead of around 1,000 or 2,000 hours life time, then can be tens of thousands of hours, life time. Instant switch on, and they can potentially use a small fraction of the power, saving lots of money for electricity bills.
Bright/powerful LED torches, are great for helping lightup your area to repairing/upgrading/etc computers/electronics, where the normal lighting is not that good.
There are a huge range of electronic components (and small built up items, such as your LED strip lights), available at usually amazingly low prices. I'm at a significant dilemma, as to what to do, with such available items.
Currently, I just about NEVER buy them (from China etc), because I am too worried about poor quality, fakes, not as specified specs, unsafe, fire-hazards etc etc.
E.g. A big pack of 250 White LEDs, for only a few £'s, including postage (hypothetical, but realistic).
Be careful about the "junction temperature". Datasheets, are usually referring to the temperature of the innermost die (where the LED light comes from). But that can be significantly higher, than the outer measured temperature. Especially if you can only access the outer plastic case. If there is any kind of metal (heatsink etc), going into the middle of the LED, then that may be giving you closer temperature readings, as regards the inner die/chip.