OT: Any woodworkers here?

[Ground_Loop]

Or, apart from all the nuclear powered industrial options mentioned, you could just take a bit of time and use a cabinet scraper. I promise it will work just fine. 

[madires]

yea no this would require an auto planer you would probobly kill yourself because you need to resharpen it so often, which is why I suggest mailing it out. That blade is not going to live long doing that cut.

I don't know what types of hand planers you can get at your local home improvement store and which quality they are, but a cutting edge becomes dull for a hand planer as well for a big heavy professional planing machine with 3-phase motor. Some wood types can be quite demanding. Either you apply some elbow grease or pay someone else for doing that.

[Refrigerator]

Planing isn't hard, just that there's a high risk of tearout when cutting endgrain.

[coppercone2]

the factory does so much it does not care about 1 extra and they have all the tooling in place to keep their production running quickly

but again, I would just sand it. Its worth doing something because they are alot of work to make.

[CatalinaWOW]

Planing will work, but the end grain work requires a good plane iron, extremely sharp and perfectly adjusted in the plane to make it anything other than a wretched chore.  If you aren't experienced it may not be a good route to take.

Since this task requires a multi-hobby/interest approach you might check if you or a friend has a mill.  Something that goes through aluminum/steel laughs at end grain.  You could have a surface ready for finish sanding in an hour or less including setup.  If you go out to a shop to do this your biggest issue will be being sure they don't contaminate your block with coolant, machine oil and other nasties.

[Cerebus]

Something that goes through aluminum/steel laughs at end grain.

However, you will likely still have the same problems with tear-out as you would have with a plane. This is a consequence of wood being an anisotropic material. The solution for a mill would be the same as with a plane, make sure that the edges are supported by being clamped with some sacrificial scrap.

It occurs to me that a fly cutter is probably the best tool for the job, and that's something one can often get away with using on wood in a drill press. The cutting forces on a single point tool like a fly cutter are relatively low compared to an end mill or face mill. I'd still be concerned about tear-out but that can be ameliorated as above. If one had a drill press to try this on, the next question would be "Do I have enough space over the bed to swing a fly cutter far enough to be useful?".

[tautech]

Something that goes through aluminum/steel laughs at end grain.

However, you will likely still have the same problems with tear-out as you would have with a plane. This is a consequence of wood being an anisotropic material. The solution for a mill would be the same as with a plane, make sure that the edges are supported by being clamped with some sacrificial scrap.

It occurs to me that a fly cutter is probably the best tool for the job, and that's something one can often get away with using on wood in a drill press. The cutting forces on a single point tool like a fly cutter are relatively low compared to an end mill or face mill. I'd still be concerned about tear-out but that can be ameliorated as above. If one had a drill press to try this on, the next question would be "Do I have enough space over the bed to swing a fly cutter far enough to be useful?".

Surface finish is relative to tool tip speed and feed rate. Period.
An experienced operator could get a perfect finish on this board with a mill.

[CatalinaWOW]

I agree, tear out at the edges could be a problem.  But either sacrificial material at the edges as you suggest or a well chosen tool path will eliminate the issue.

[Cerebus]

Something that goes through aluminum/steel laughs at end grain.

However, you will likely still have the same problems with tear-out as you would have with a plane. This is a consequence of wood being an anisotropic material. The solution for a mill would be the same as with a plane, make sure that the edges are supported by being clamped with some sacrificial scrap.

It occurs to me that a fly cutter is probably the best tool for the job, and that's something one can often get away with using on wood in a drill press. The cutting forces on a single point tool like a fly cutter are relatively low compared to an end mill or face mill. I'd still be concerned about tear-out but that can be ameliorated as above. If one had a drill press to try this on, the next question would be "Do I have enough space over the bed to swing a fly cutter far enough to be useful?".

Surface finish is relative to tool tip speed and feed rate. Period.
An experienced operator could get a perfect finish on this board with a mill.

Tear-out in this context has nothing to do with surface finish but with the chunks breaking off the edges.

[langwadt]

I agree, tear out at the edges could be a problem.  But either sacrificial material at the edges as you suggest or a well chosen tool path will eliminate the issue.

yep going around the edge so the cutting is always inwards also works on metal to avoid making burr

[Alex Eisenhut]

Cool, I found my hobby plane, I'll start this afternoon and let you know in a couple of months how far I get. 

[madires]

Ouch!

[tautech]

Cool, I found my hobby plane, I'll start this afternoon and let you know in a couple of months how far I get. 

Like pissing into the wind ! 

Get the grinder and sanding pads out if you require real progress.

[coppercone2]

don't use the grinder on wood, its too easy to burn it and get black / charcoal spots. You just don't need those kinds of RPMs.  Same with flapwheel I think unless you are very careful doing touch up.

[tautech]

don't use the grinder on wood, its too easy to burn it and get black / charcoal spots. You just don't need those kinds of RPMs.  Same with flapwheel I think unless you are very careful doing touch up.

Balderdash ! 
Stripped the paint off my old house with 5" and 7" sanding pads and smoothed with a rotary orbital and 40 grit.
9" grinder for the large areas and the 5" for the more delicate/confined areas.

Until you've done it you couldn't know. 

[coppercone2]

I like to strip paint with a 20? grit carbide oscillating tool for a garage door.

When I tried flap wheels on a grinder on wood I got horrible results. Maybe if you use the silicon carbide abrasives it might work better (the ones for aluminum)

[tautech]

I like to strip paint with a 20? grit carbide oscillating tool for a garage door.

When I tried flap wheels on a grinder on wood I got horrible results. Maybe if you use the silicon carbide abrasives it might work better (the ones for aluminum)

They weren't coarse enough. If you spin too fine grit fast they will clog, guaranteed.
If you need remove any material you need a 24 grit sanding disc on a grinder with a rubber pad.

Velcro backed ones......yeah, nah as they're only good for low rotational speeds like rotary orbital sanders.

Stuff like these that I linked before works:

[Mr. Scram]

Planing is quite drastic and there's a fair chance it's not required. Cutting board maintenance also deals with occasionally stripping down a board a starting fresh. Planing it isn't very usual. If you insist on planing that's also how you get the gunk off. There's a world of resources dedicated to the subject.

https://www.knivesandtools.com/en/ct/how-do-you-maintain-a-wooden-cutting-board.htm