How do you run in a soldering bit.

[chinoy]

I know how to run in a new cast iron pan.
Long story short I have finally afforded my self a new Hako T12 K bit.
For years I have managed with cheap knock offs from China.

Id like to know if there is a run in process for new bits. Did search but couldn't find anything. Maybe you guys use a different term.
The bit says lead free. What does that mean ?. Like I shouldn't use lead solder ?. 

[Xena E]

Just tin the tip as it heats up the first time and keep it clean is all you can do.

Lead free compatible means it has better/thicker plating to preserve it from being attacked by the more aggressive flux LF solder often uses.

If you use leaded that will also be fine, but avoid using the same bit for both if you can help it.

[JohanH]

There is no run in needed. All modern tips have plating. Keep the tip tinned generously all the time, except when actually soldering. It will last very long. Just before soldering, clean the tip with a wet sponge or brass wool, heat the point to be soldered and feed fresh solder to the area (you only want fresh solder that contains flux). Don't ever clean the tip mechanically with anything else than a sponge or brass wool.

If you happen to leave it on without the tip tinned, it might eventually oxidize. This can be remedied with applying lots of solder and repeatedly cleaning (sponge or brass wool). Additional flux might help, too. Do not use solder or flux that plumbers use, it contains corrosive acid flux that is bad for electronics. In worst case, I've managed to repair an old tip with special tip tinner paste, but it's some nasty stuff not to be regularly used.

As for leaded/lead free, it doesn't really matter for hobby use. But if you work for a company you should keep leaded and lead free tools separate. It's more of a certification thing than anything practical (except that lead is obviously not healthy for human bodies and that's why the whole lead free thing came to be).

[soldar]

Gluten free is the one you need to be really careful about 

[xvr]

Id like to know if there is a run in process for new bits.

Yes, a glass of Champagne will be enough. 

As already was told nothing special needed for modern tips. Old ages pure copper tips required very special initiation with a file and solder.
But never use your tip with active fluxes made for plumbing (or some of this sort). First of all they will corrode PCB, and the second thay can destroy tip covering.
I had a bad luck with soldering aluminium with appropriate flux - it completely dissolved tip covering 

[Someone]

There is no run in needed. All modern tips have plating. Keep the tip tinned generously all the time, except when actually soldering. It will last very long. Just before soldering, clean the tip with a wet sponge or brass wool, heat the point to be soldered and feed fresh solder to the area (you only want fresh solder that contains flux). Don't ever clean the tip mechanically with anything else than a sponge or brass wool.

If you happen to leave it on without the tip tinned, it might eventually oxidize. This can be remedied with applying lots of solder and repeatedly cleaning (sponge or brass wool). Additional flux might help, too. Do not use solder or flux that plumbers use, it contains corrosive acid flux that is bad for electronics. In worst case, I've managed to repair an old tip with special tip tinner paste, but it's some nasty stuff not to be regularly used.

I've had many tips arrive "un-wettable" brand new out of the packet. Tip cleaner/tinner really is needed as regular fluxes (even the aggressive ones) didn't get the tip to wet.

[coppercone2]

its probobly oxidized. rub it on a very fine stone a few times, it takes a long while to get through thick iron plating. If its a genuine one you will have a thick plating that will have no problem with a very gentle post storage clean

[IanB]

I've had many tips arrive "un-wettable" brand new out of the packet. Tip cleaner/tinner really is needed as regular fluxes (even the aggressive ones) didn't get the tip to wet.

That is a surprise. When I have bought Hakko tips they have arrived pre-tinned.

[IanB]

I keep reading this title as "How do you ruin a soldering bit?"

One easy answer to that is to try soldering aluminium. Another way to ruin a soldering bit is to file it clean and thereby remove the protective plating. A third way is to put the iron away without first tinning it with a fresh layer of solder. Or use the iron a too high a temperature until the tip burns and oxidizes.

In short, the soldering bit should be good right out of the packet. But there are many ways to ruin it if you don't look after it well.

[soldar]

I keep reading this title as "How do you ruin a soldering bit?"

One easy answer to that is to try soldering aluminium. Another way to ruin a soldering bit is to file it clean and thereby remove the protective plating. A third way is to put the iron away without first tinning it with a fresh layer of solder. Or use the iron a too high a temperature until the tip burns and oxidizes.

In short, the soldering bit should be good right out of the packet. But there are many ways to ruin it if you don't look after it well.

Another way, which I practice regularly, is to use the tip to melt plastic. I know that after I do it I will have to spend time cleaning and rewetting the tip.

I always think I should have a separate iron for plastic but it is more expedient to just use the one that is already hot.