How do you organize your component bins?

[Red Squirrel]

I'm new to electronics and mostly just in the learning phase but I want to start getting into some projects. Don't really have much in terms of components yet other than a recent digikey order of random stuff like bit shift registers and other stuff I've bought or collected from old electronics. One thing I've been curious about is finding a good way to organize components so they're easy to find and overall in a neat and tidy storage.  Looking for some inspiration.  Tackle boxes?  Those little drawer thingies for screws?  Whatever you use, I'd like to hear ideas.

In particular,  how do you organize resistors, capacitors and other components that have a wide range of values?  What is the best way to separate the values and what values are very typical and should be kept separate?

Right now my little work bench looks like I'm a mad scientist, but in reality, it's just because I'm super disorganized. 

[tggzzz]

I'm new to electronics and mostly just in the learning phase but I want to start getting into some projects. Don't really have much in terms of components yet other than a recent digikey order of random stuff like bit shift registers and other stuff I've bought or collected from old electronics. One thing I've been curious about is finding a good way to organize components so they're easy to find and overall in a neat and tidy storage.  Looking for some inspiration.  Tackle boxes?  Those little drawer thingies for screws?  Whatever you use, I'd like to hear ideas.

In particular,  how do you organize resistors, capacitors and other components that have a wide range of values?  What is the best way to separate the values and what values are very typical and should be kept separate?

Right now my little work bench looks like I'm a mad scientist, but in reality, it's just because I'm super disorganized. 

A combination of techniques, depending on the component. For hobbyist purposes where there is an eclectic partial collection of very different components...

If the compoinent is "finger sized" and clearly marked (e.g. through hole resistor/capacitor, or large semiconductors) then I keep them in as many "screw drawers" as necessary. I optionally put them in tiny cheap plastic bag (antistatic if necessary) and write the part number on the outside.

If the component is "tweezer sized" or not clearly marked (e.g. SMD components or small semiconductors) then I keep them in the plastic bags and tapes in which they were supplied including the part number. I put multiple bags in one screw drawer.

When I start to build something, I take all the relevant the plastic bags to the workbench, and then take out each component immediately before I use it.

[Jeroen3]

I keep SMD capacitors diodes and e12 resistors and some transistors and mosfets in wentai (or wen-tai) smd boxes.
Other parts I keep in an Excel table, and in esd bags in a box. You can scroll through them like a tray of envelopes.

[ovnr]

+1 for Wen-Tai boxes; I have several hundred. Non-sensitive parts (resistors, caps) loose, more delicate things in tape.

For larger bits they usually live in their original bags in a few larger plastic tubs, or in smaller project-specific boxes.

[wagon]

Apart from the little 'drawer' cabinets, I have large compartment boxes and lots of Chinese food containers.  For my resistors (those in bigger quantities) I've got a cardboard box with lots of little 'payday envelopes' inside it.  I can take a couple of pictures if it helps.

[free_electron]

resistors and caps go in sorting trays with spring lids. cheap from iteadstudio.

all other parts i used to put in drawer trays , but cutting labels, rearainging them alphabetically from time to time, parts getting under the tray dividers led me to another storage method :

i bought a gigantic case of small antistatic bags( 10.000 bags ,each 10cmx 10cm with zip-loc ).
each bag has a simple label on it for example A01 or D01 or M01

A= analog
D = digital
M = memory

Bags are stored in lidded boxes. boxes are lableled A00 - Axx , Axx - Ayy

a spreadsheet holds the list of what sits in what bag.

Bag A23 contains LM324 in SO14
Bag M7 holds 6264 in SO-24
Bag D104 is 74V1G125 in SOT23-5

if the parts were bought from somewhere there is a column with the vendor and order code.

so no need to re-sort the stuff in trays. if a bag is empty it gets refilled or tossed. i can very quickly sort my spreadsheet for what i need.

[Howardlong]

For smd parts snipped off reels, I use transparent 35mm negative storage sheets and slip the cut offs with the distributor's label into the pocket. If I remember, I also write on the back of the paper carriers the part value.

I invested in a full set of E96 0402 and 0603 resisitors, and E24 in L and C on 0402 and 0603 a few years ago, stored in 35mm neg storage sheets.

Other than that, I have about fifty drawers, some with parts in individual bags compartmentalised into, say, smd caps 100-999pF, but mostly the drawers have parts for specific (mostly unfinished) projects.

I always over-order on parts, comes in mighty handy later on, no need for spreadsheets, it's in my head, most of the time!

[tggzzz]

For smd parts snipped off reels, I use transparent 35mm negative storage sheets and slip the cut offs with the distributor's label into the pocket. If I remember, I also write on the back of the paper carriers the part value.

If I was going down that route, which I won't because I can't be bothered to write the full part number, I might try http://www.adafruit.com/products/2183

In life I've found R.V. Jones' comments on how he ordered his files to be relevant to my life. RV Jones was head of British Scientific Intelligence in WW2, and as a 28yo he argued with Churchill on several occasion, saved several cities from the Luftwaffe by "bending the beams" (Coventry being the infamous exception), ferreted out the V1 and V2 weapons, and eventually wrote a marvellous book "Most Secret War".

So how did he organise the UK's  scientific intelligence material? Basically he piled his papers into boxes containing roughly connected material, and relied on his memory to find the right box. He had found that if he tried to have a more "organised" system, he spent too long on the filing and lost the serendipity of finding possibly-connected items.

So, don't over-organise, just get it roughly right, sort it whe you need it.

Must re-re-read Most Secret War

I always over-order on parts, comes in mighty handy later on, no need for spreadsheets, it's in my head, most of the time!

Yes indeed. If you look at the cost of many simple SMD components, it is obvious that a major factor is the time/cost for cutting the right length of tape. Often 100 don't cost that much more than 10!

[richard.cs]

So wen tai is what they're called? I've just had a quick look on google images and whilst not quite the same they're pretty similar to the interlocking boxes with sprung lids we use at work. They're pretty good only we tend to call them "mouse toilets" :-D

I certainly prefer them to keeping everything on tape. Through hole stuff mostly goes in drawers.

[G0HZU]

The best advice I can offer is to 'not' store parts within easy reach of your main seating position. i.e. don't clutter up your main working area with component bins or drawers. Store them somewhere else in a confined space that is well away from the main workbench.

This frees up valuable working area for yourself.

A lot of people do store parts within easy reach (usually in rows and columns of little pullout storage bins). You often see a really impressive array of hundreds of little storage bins right in front of the operator and it is very tempting to do this but years of experience has taught me that this is a false economy.

The same applies to test gear. Don't try and cram all your test gear onto the workbench in one go like a shop display. If you do both of the above you will end up with virtually no working space left for you or your project hardware or to put any temporary tools or temporary hardware.

[c4757p]

each bag has a simple label on it for example A01 or D01 or M01

A= analog
D = digital
M = memory

Bags are stored in lidded boxes. boxes are lableled A00 - Axx , Axx - Ayy

a spreadsheet holds the list of what sits in what bag.

Ooh! I've considered doing that. Maybe I will now.

[tggzzz]

each bag has a simple label on it for example A01 or D01 or M01
A= analog
D = digital
M = memory
Bags are stored in lidded boxes. boxes are lableled A00 - Axx , Axx - Ayy
a spreadsheet holds the list of what sits in what bag.

Ooh! I've considered doing that. Maybe I will now.

So where would you put an ADC or DAC, or a digitally-controlled volume control?

As with all single-tag-classification systems, in general the classification only tells you where something isn't.

For example, do I put the end-of-year savings account tax statement in the "savings account" box or the "tax" box? Could be either, but it isn't going to be in the "computer bits" box!

[c4757p]

Doesn't matter - it's just a little bit of sorting to keep things somewhat separated, the database is what really matters. And I can sort and resort those however I want.

[Red Squirrel]

The best advice I can offer is to 'not' store parts within easy reach of your main seating position. i.e. don't clutter up your main working area with component bins or drawers. Store them somewhere else in a confined space that is well away from the main workbench.

This frees up valuable working area for yourself.

A lot of people do store parts within easy reach (usually in rows and columns of little pullout storage bins). You often see a really impressive array of hundreds of little storage bins right in front of the operator and it is very tempting to do this but years of experience has taught me that this is a false economy.

The same applies to test gear. Don't try and cram all your test gear onto the workbench in one go like a shop display. If you do both of the above you will end up with virtually no working space left for you or your project hardware or to put any temporary tools or temporary hardware.

That makes sense, when you do need components you can just go over to wherever you store them then pick out the ones you  need.  Could maybe keep a small organizer of easy to reach components for common stuff, but that's it.  wire leads, and stuff of that nature.  Even then I'm planing on building myself a large computer desk, like 7'x3' which will double as a work bench so I could store bins under it and pull out as I need.   Might end up just going with original idea and getting a bunch of these:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-60-drawer-plastic-parts-cabinet-0581084p.html#.VIJYv_i2HZs

I could label them on the side and store them back to back and just pull out the one I need like a book.  Those things arn't fun when they tip over though... lol.   Ex: one unit could be just resistors. Maybe split them off by the first 2 color codes or something.  Put value range and color on label to make sorting easier when I have a bunch of lose resistors to put away.  For capacitors I could have capacitive ranges or something.

Also, do I need to worry about static when dealing with individual components?   I can't imagine something like a resistor being static sensitive but a micro controller or any IC type chip on the other hand I'd probably want to store in anti static bags.

[T3sl4co1l]

My common breadboarding parts are organized in small sliding drawers with dividers, sorted by powers of 10.  Resistors under 100 ohms, 100-999, 1k-9.9k, etc.  Same for capacitors (no distinction between ceramic, film, electrolytic, etc., but if you have a lot, that might be beneficial).  Transistors, general purpose NPN, PNP, FET (JFET/MOS, N/P), power NPN, PNP, MOS; diodes plain, zener; assorted ICs; transducers (LEDs, photocells, neon lights, piezo, etc.); fuses; jumper wires.

That's just the smaller thingy; a larger one hold bigger components (power transistors and diodes, small heatsinks, larger film and electrolytic capacitors, trimmers and pots, inductors, magnetic cores, etc.).

Bigger parts are tossed in various boxes (larger electrolytics, high voltage; low voltage; transformers; etc.).

If you have a lot of parts and a lot of drawers, you could go for finer divisions (resistors 1-2.2k, 2.3-4k, 4.1-6k, ...), or individual compartments for each value.

I haven't organized my SMT baggies yet, but when I get around to it, those will be filed upright in boxes in a similar order (by value, by family, and so on).

Tim

[all_repair]

Leave rooms for expansion in your system, sub-system,...folder, sub-folder.   Try it and evolve along the way that suit your usage.  Different usage frequency ask for different organising method.  When I am packing my rat-nest, mostly I am discarding obsolete costly gears, old printed papers, but the packing containers, files, holders are what still relevant and useful.  So when come to spending and trying organizer, I have become more adventurous and less mindful of their cost.

[free_electron]

each bag has a simple label on it for example A01 or D01 or M01

A= analog
D = digital
M = memory

Bags are stored in lidded boxes. boxes are lableled A00 - Axx , Axx - Ayy

a spreadsheet holds the list of what sits in what bag.

Ooh! I've considered doing that. Maybe I will now.

It works great for me. if something new comes in it gets a new serial number. done
i pre-print labels on a dymo label printer ( 35$ ) i use small 1inch x 1 inch labels they just have the serial number on them.
underneath is the same number in barcode.  i bought a simple barcode scanner. grab bag - beep -

after a while of adding parts i spit out larger labels with the part names on it as well.

[Howardlong]

One other comment is that some distributors irritatingly use labels where the print fades over time, sometimes it's unreadable only a few months later. I think they're thermally printed or something. Some (but not all) Farnell labels are like that, and I think Digikey at least used to have the same kind of labels. Make sure you write on those in a decent black marker pen the requisite part details before they fade away.

[george graves]

Mouser had that problem.  Then have since fixed it.

http://wa0uwh.blogspot.com/2011/08/mouser-fixed-component-bag-labels.html

[rdl]

I had noticed that with Mouser labels also. I have part bags from them going back over 10 years and some would fade, others were okay. Good that they fixed it.

Now if they'd just switch to labels that I could peel off, trim, and reuse on a smaller bag I'd be real happy. The ones they use now stick too tight to remove in one piece, even if heat is applied.

[IO390]

Has anyone else noticed those red biodegradable anti-static bags? They feel kinda oily. I've dubbed them Durex anti static bags.

[Jeroen3]

One other comment is that some distributors irritatingly use labels where the print fades over time, sometimes it's unreadable only a few months later. I think they're thermally printed or something. Some (but not all) Farnell labels are like that, and I think Digikey at least used to have the same kind of labels. Make sure you write on those in a decent black marker pen the requisite part details before they fade away.

You can read those completely faded thermal labels one more time if you heat them up. Try it by keeping your solder iron close, or heat them with hot-air of even a lighter.

[Kibi]

Has anyone else noticed those red biodegradable anti-static bags? They feel kinda oily. I've dubbed them Durex anti static bags.

Yes, I know the ones that you mean, their texture has reminded me of condoms too.

[nctnico]

I keep SMD resistors and capacitors and other SMT parts in plastic boxes with lids. I simply write on them what is inside. Labelling is just too much work.
I store things like chips and larger components in the bags they came from (usually) Farnell in drawers. I don't put all the components I use in the drawers. I use a plastic box for each project and at the end of a project the components go into the drawers or are discarded in the 'compoment leftovers box'.

[SeanB]

One other comment is that some distributors irritatingly use labels where the print fades over time, sometimes it's unreadable only a few months later. I think they're thermally printed or something. Some (but not all) Farnell labels are like that, and I think Digikey at least used to have the same kind of labels. Make sure you write on those in a decent black marker pen the requisite part details before they fade away.

You can read those completely faded thermal labels one more time if you heat them up. Try it by keeping your solder iron close, or heat them with hot-air of even a lighter.

The fading depends on the printer used. Those that stay legible for decades used a thermal wax transfer ribbon between the print head and the plain paper label. The others did not use the ribbon, but used a thermal paper with bisophenol A as a thermal dye. Those fade after a while from exposure to air, or even faster in contact with PVC.