Collet chuck for ML-360 lathe

[xzswq21]

Hello,
I have a Sakai/Toyo ML-360 lathe machine, but I haven't found any collet chuck for the lathe, actually the collet chuck is discontinued for the lathe and I really need one. Does anyone has a collet chuck for the ML-360 lathe?
Thanks

[mag_therm]

RDG Tools UK has a straight shank chuck set plus various other.
You could email him about adaptor options for the ML360.

[jpanhalt]

From what I found on the Internet, it looks like the spindle has a typical MT2 taper (attachment + translation error).  Collet chucks for that taper are quite common.  My Prazi 300 has the same.  You may want the MT2 taper to have a female threaded end for a draw bar.  Unless you already have one, a draw bar is usually hollow, so I used  an appropriate size  (about 3/8" OD) of cold roll steel tube to make mine.  If you aren't sure what I mean, respond.  I will take a picture of it.

EDIT:  Here's one on Amazon for a reasonable price.  You will need ER25 collets.  It's "precision" so it must be good. 

https://www.amazon.com/ER25-Collet-Chuck-Taper-Shank/dp/B0CKHG81D9

[mag_therm]

Yes, a drawbar is needed for helical milling cutters.
I just use Jacobs chucks here.  8 ~10mm mills will pull the MT2 loose.
I have a larger Jacobs with the 1.5 by 8 nose for the South Bend, but it does not close below about 3mm.

(This query should be in the mechanical section ?)

[jpanhalt]

A drawbar works fine with the MT2 collet chuck for turning and threading both directions on my SD300.

[xzswq21]

From what I found on the Internet, it looks like the spindle has a typical MT2 taper (attachment + translation error).  Collet chucks for that taper are quite common.  My Prazi 300 has the same.  You may want the MT2 taper to have a female threaded end for a draw bar.  Unless you already have one, a draw bar is usually hollow, so I used  an appropriate size  (about 3/8" OD) of cold roll steel tube to make mine.  If you aren't sure what I mean, respond.  I will take a picture of it.

EDIT:  Here's one on Amazon for a reasonable price.  You will need ER25 collets.  It's "precision" so it must be good. 

https://www.amazon.com/ER25-Collet-Chuck-Taper-Shank/dp/B0CKHG81D9

How should I lock the draw bar in the spindle?

[2N3055]

https://www.lathes.co.uk/toyo/index.html

http://www.manix.co.kr/new/build/product_list.php?boardT=v&page_idx=60&goods_data=aWR4PTI4JnRhYmxlPXJlZF9nb29kcyZwYWdlX2lkeD02MCZzZWFyY2hfaXRlbT0=%7C%7C&act=eng

[xzswq21]

https://www.lathes.co.uk/toyo/index.html

http://www.manix.co.kr/new/build/product_list.php?boardT=v&page_idx=60&goods_data=aWR4PTI4JnRhYmxlPXJlZF9nb29kcyZwYWdlX2lkeD02MCZzZWFyY2hfaXRlbT0=%7C%7C&act=eng

The Manix company doesn't respond any emails and they don't produce the collet chuck and vertical milling table anymore, the both accessories are discontinued.

[Smokey]

From what I found on the Internet, it looks like the spindle has a typical MT2 taper (attachment + translation error).  Collet chucks for that taper are quite common.  My Prazi 300 has the same.  You may want the MT2 taper to have a female threaded end for a draw bar.  Unless you already have one, a draw bar is usually hollow, so I used  an appropriate size  (about 3/8" OD) of cold roll steel tube to make mine.  If you aren't sure what I mean, respond.  I will take a picture of it.

EDIT:  Here's one on Amazon for a reasonable price.  You will need ER25 collets.  It's "precision" so it must be good. 

https://www.amazon.com/ER25-Collet-Chuck-Taper-Shank/dp/B0CKHG81D9

How should I lock the draw bar in the spindle?

From the back of the spindle through bore....
sorta like this: https://www.greensandmachines.com/2014/07/5-c-collet-cloture-part-2-draw-bar.html

[xzswq21]

I don't have any milling machine and a lathe to cut steel material.

[2N3055]

https://www.lathes.co.uk/toyo/index.html

http://www.manix.co.kr/new/build/product_list.php?boardT=v&page_idx=60&goods_data=aWR4PTI4JnRhYmxlPXJlZF9nb29kcyZwYWdlX2lkeD02MCZzZWFyY2hfaXRlbT0=%7C%7C&act=eng

The Manix company doesn't respond any emails and they don't produce the collet chuck and vertical milling table anymore, the both accessories are discontinued.

Read in more detail. It was sold as Proxxon PD360. That means that maybe even PD400 collet holder might be a fit.

[jpanhalt]

I don't have any milling machine and a lathe to cut steel material.

Attached are images from my Pazi installation.  They should be not need  explanation and were made entirely on the lathe with which they are used.  No additional tools were used, except a hack saw to cut the draw bar to approximate length.

Note the "thrust washer" between the knurled knob and adapter/spacer (not blackened) on drawbar.  The knurled knob was purchased finished.

It seems you do not have a lathe based on your most recent post.  The lathe you mention is perfectly OK for cutting steel.  Why do you need a collet chuck for it? I got my first lathe when I was 14 and used it for years with just a 4-jaw chuck and no collet chuck.  I was 30+ when I got a very used South Bend 9" with 3-jaw chuck.   It was years later before I added collets.  First get the lathe.  Learn how to use it and how to center your work accurately.  Then consider attachments.

[jpanhalt]

It occured to me that maybe you don't have a chuck for the lathe.  Do you have one?  Do you have a tool holder (probably for 3/8" tools)?

You need both.*  If you don't have a chuck, look at the plate on the headstock.  The 4 inner holes are probably for mounting that plate to the machine's spindle.  There are probably 4, Allen head screws.  The outer holes are probably for mounting various chucks using either 3 or 4 screws each.  There are some important dimensions for a new chuck.  One is the hole-circle diameter for the mounting holes.  The other is the outside diameter and the diameter of the inner ledge/raised portion.  It is probably a fairly standard size in mm.  The first thing I would do is mount a 3- or 4-jaw chuck.  Both can be "self-centering" or scroll.  Three-jaw scroll and 4-jaw independent chucks are most common.

The other tool you need is a dial indicator to show whether something is centered in the chuck and the chuck is centered on the spindle.  Don't skip on that tool.  Inexpensive indicators like in the first attachment will work, but are considerably more difficult to set up than the type shown in the second attachment.

*There are situations where only a collet chuck is needed, but for a hobbyist and general purpose lathe, a regular chuck is more versatile.

[Smokey]

I don't have any milling machine and a lathe to cut steel material.

A drawbar for this can be made from a threaded rod, a nut, and a washer.