Claimed "1/4 watt" through-hole resistors from Amazon seller "Eamasawa"

[eti]

Claimed "1/4 watt" through-hole resistors from Amazon seller "Eamasawa" - the 33K in each photo is of my own *actual* 1/4 watt stock, and the other is the claimed "1/4 watt" from an Amazon seller. The lead diameter, as you see, on the Amazon units, is a bit thinner.

Am I being fussy? I expect to get what I paid for, no matter how small the cost!

[TimFox]

You are being too fussy for a cheap part.  Probably, it will dissipate 1/4 W safely--check its specification sheet (sarcasm).
I grew up with Allen-Bradley carbon composition resistors, and mentally dimension resistors accordingly, but many modern resistors are not encased in phenolic and can probably withstand a higher core temperature.

[coppercone2]

practically they suck for breadboarding and deadbugging is different (sometimes easier actually, because you do not disturb the other components pins if you make structures).

If you actually are a breadboard guy, you should just pay more for real resistors, it will end up costing you eventually way more then the savings you get. IMO crap, I got real 1/6W resistors, those have the same leads as the cheap 1/4 watt resistors, real 1/4 watt resistors will poke your finger pretty hard. They make weak connections to breadboards and end up making circuits malfunction if the board is worn.

[eti]

practically they suck for breadboarding and deadbugging is different (sometimes easier actually, because you do not disturb the other components pins if you make structures).

If you actually are a breadboard guy, you should just pay more for real resistors, it will end up costing you eventually way more then the savings you get. IMO crap, I got real 1/6W resistors, those have the same leads as the cheap 1/4 watt resistors, real 1/4 watt resistors will poke your finger pretty hard. They make weak connections to breadboards and end up making circuits malfunction if the board is worn.

I don't know how to differentiate between crap and "real" resistors, especially on the world's largest commercial scam platform. How does one know which are best? Although not a king's ransom, I wouldn't exactly call £7.99 GBP "cheap", bearing in mind they appear rather inferior.

Yes breadboard is my main use for these, so shall be pursuing Amazon for recompense, forthwith, and will leave them well alone, lesson learnt.

Thanks so much for the help.

[SilverSolder]

If the resistor leads are about as thick as the jumper wires in your bread board kit, you are on the right track. 

A little thinner will work too, but can be fiddlier.

Something like this looks ok:  https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-Values-Resistor-Assortment-Compliant/dp/B072BL2VX1

I loved this very a propos assertion from the seller:  "If you are upset with the loose connections of crappy ressitors, ELEGOO resistor kit with thicker pins would show you what a sturdy connection feels like." 

[eti]

If the resistor leads are about as thick as the jumper wires in your bread board kit, you are on the right track. 

A little thinner will work too, but can be fiddlier.

Well the decent grade ones I already had, were only JUST thick enough a lead diameter for breadboard, but I've lost most of them or they're all jumbled up, hence this purchase. I can't see these being much cop due to them being even thinner than the aforementioned! Never mind.

[SilverSolder]

See my edit above,  I think the secret is to search for "bread board resistors" and you might find what you need!

[eti]

See my edit above,  I think the secret is to search for "bread board resistors" and you might find what you need!

Thanks so much

[Monkeh]

It's a 1/4W resistor - how thick of a lead do you think you need?

You're being far too fussy and expecting everything to be made as if it's the glory years of material waste.

[eti]

It's a 1/4W resistor - how thick of a lead do you think you need?

You're being far too fussy and expecting everything to be made as if it's the glory years of material waste.

Take it easy. There's enough people "on a mission"  as it is, online, to put everyone else down and try and make them feel stupid, without you needing to do so also. Since you're a member of this forum, I'm sure you're too intelligent to stoop to picking fault with strangers, and I'm maybe misreading your intentions. If I am, I apologise.

However, please don't put words into my mouth, and don't presume to think you can read my mind. Please, I welcome you to think whatever you like, silently, and then go about your business.

[SilverSolder]

It's a 1/4W resistor - how thick of a lead do you think you need?

You're being far too fussy and expecting everything to be made as if it's the glory years of material waste.

It feels good to work with nicely made stuff, and to work with tools that you feel are "just so".  That's a good enough reason to pursue these things.  If doing your hobby or work doesn't make you feel good, why are you doing it? 

That said, I can definitely also feel good about an economically optimal solution - if it is part of a product like a fridge or a TV where I don't really care about the aesthetics of the internal components! 

[floobydust]

the chinese have optimized the cost of these resistors - using the least amount of metal for the leads. They're right - you don't need such thick leads for the currents involved. They're all steel nowadays. My 1980's Philips resistors are all copper leads. Sigh.
You don't need the leads to be so long either, we're not doing point-point wiring building antique guitar amplifiers anymore. So the cheapened construction is ok I guess.
But I found the 1% parts are around +/-4% and stayed with using higher quality parts made in Taiwan.

[eti]

the chinese have optimized the cost of these resistors - using the least amount of metal for the leads. They're right - you don't need such thick leads for the currents involved. They're all steel nowadays. My 1980's Philips resistors are all copper leads. Sigh.
You don't need the leads to be so long either, we're not doing point-point wiring building antique guitar amplifiers anymore. So the cheapened construction is ok I guess.
But I found the 1% parts are around +/-4% and stayed with using higher quality parts made in Taiwan.

I am unsure which resistors use ALL steel in the leads, but these are plated copper for sure - I have just tested them.

[floobydust]

A magnet tells all, and cutting steel leads they launch pretty far, even with safety cutters 
Name-brand resistor manufacturers state:
"electrolytic copper-plated with fused pure tin {leads} are welded to the termination caps." (Vishay MBA and Yageo MFP)
"Alloy coated leads"
"Hot tin dipped copper wire"

[tkamiya]

Ha!  Someone with the same concerns as I...

I've purchased registers from Amazon, too, and were quite surprised how thin the wires were.  So far, for building purposes, they made zero difference.  Wires form easily and hold shape.  I never push 1/4 watt registers to the limit anyway.  I think they are the result of cost cutting measure.  Some dealers (like SparkFun) are starting to label their products as "thick lead" to differentiate from these.

I'm so surprised at the length some manufacturers in China would go to cut cost.

More concerning are their fuse holders.  Some "18 gauge wire" looks like 22 gauge. Yet, spec'd at 15 or 20Amp.  Some are now saying "real 18 gauge wire" in their ads.  These days, for things that matter, I buy from Digikey.  For ones they don't, eBay or Amazon will do.

I hope Amazon will recognize being a conduit for these substandard parts will reduce them to second rate merchant, and affect future growth.  Somehow, I doubt that will ever happen.

[eti]

Ha!  Someone with the same concerns as I...

I've purchased registers from Amazon, too, and were quite surprised how thin the wires were.  So far, for building purposes, they made zero difference.  Wires form easily and hold shape.  I never push 1/4 watt registers to the limit anyway.  I think they are the result of cost cutting measure.  Some dealers (like SparkFun) are starting to label their products as "thick lead" to differentiate from these.

I'm so surprised at the length some manufacturers in China would go to cut cost.

More concerning are their fuse holders.  Some "18 gauge wire" looks like 22 gauge. Yet, spec'd at 15 or 20Amp.  Some are now saying "real 18 gauge wire" in their ads.  These days, for things that matter, I buy from Digikey.  For ones they don't, eBay or Amazon will do.

I hope Amazon will recognize being a conduit for these substandard parts will reduce them to second rate merchant, and affect future growth.  Somehow, I doubt that will ever happen.

I hope Amazon will recognize being a conduit for these substandard parts will reduce them to second rate merchant, and affect future growth.  Somehow, I doubt that will ever happen.

Oh I believe they've been right down there at the very dregs of the barrel for a lonnnnnnnnnng time. They're the cheesiest, tackiest, most unethical, cheapest and lowest common denominator losers in all of retail.

People can't seem to see past "cheap" and so people believe (falsely) that they "love Amazon" - no, they love being pandered to and being lazy, convenience-driven sheep that buy any old tat because it magically appears on their doorstep in 12 hours (and then flood eBay with it 6 months later, once they have played played with their little toy and then shoved it in a drawer somewhere).

Amazon are literally the lowest of the lowest of the low, the bottom feeders. They disgust me, despite my using them rarely. Jeff Bezos is on the same planet that he and Elon "highly and disturbingly, and I think I'm changing the world" Musk, IE, definitely not planet earth.

If ever there needed to be textbook examples of power going to one's head and disturbingly distorting your perception of reality, these two lads epitomise how NOT to be a responsible, adult, sane and kind CEO.

[coppercone2]

first of all, their not right, they are weak. I have damaged them doing circuit repairs that would be fine with normal resistors, particularly bending them out of the way. Package engineering is HUGE and its dictated by COST. They made it cheaper not better, you can make garbage run for a while. And again, it does not work on breadboards well, its not good for hobbyists. It's not fine for manufacturing either, because then you should specify a real 1/6 watt resistor if you need less power lol

how to avoid scams? Look up 'resistor manufacturers' on google. They will give you a datasheet

btw amazon is not a great company and not a great employer.. not sure you should associate with them on stuff that is a known problem.

I should do a side by side over load test to see how they burn up compared to each other to see if the core is the same. Connect both and ramp up the wattage to see which one goes first, and how it goes, then do a pulse over load test to see the failure mode there (explosion characteristics, to see how much it will damage the circuit its in)

I also have a hunch the leads are not electronics grade oxygen free pure copper, more like recycled pipe fittings. Another test you can do is get a real 1/6 or 1/8 watt part that has the same diameter lead, and then do a back and forth bend test to see which lead breaks faster. This also messes with the temperature coefficient of the device I think, so if you do the whole precise matching thing, you might be frustrated with drifty results if you think you can get a precision circuit on the cheap. Also the plating might be low quality, so it could make solder joints brittle.

I also noticed the epoxy coating or whatever is more fragile on the cheap ones, they tend to fracture the ends when you bend them, this is a recipe for low moisture immunity and stuff if it compromises the package during part fitting prior to soldering.

Then you might also want to test the paint, see how the marking paint holds up to elevated circuit temperatures, to see how repairable the part will be if it runs hot, fades the paint, then burn out, so you are left with a unlabeled dud in the circuit. Good resistors often burn out but still have legible markings.

and when I measured them, their TCR is all over the place as compared to factory made resistors, which do much better then the datasheet usually, when comparing metal film to metal film. Batches do not line up, meaning unstable deposition I think, possibly also meaning poor film adhesion and low reliability. 

[Simon]

I bought boxes of 5'000 resistors from china at one point and yes the wires were a bit thinner, not a problem really I just noted that they were not what I had bought before but when you think of the total accumulation of material used and weight to ship it's not a bad thing so long as they remain fit for purpose.

[MosherIV]

Hi

The simple solution is just do not buy electronic components from Amazon or Ebay!
You just do not know what you are goinb to get.

There are plenty of reputable suppliers in the UK.
Farnell and RS now sell to individuals but be aware they have a charge for postage if the order is below a minimum amount.
Also look at RapidOnline and CPC.
Then Mouser and Digikey do ship to UK.

I use a small company called Bitsbox.co.uk

To be honest, they all either have postage charges or only give free postage above a minimum order amount.

[HobGoblyn]

As my wife has Amazon prime, it can be very handy ordering something at 9pm and get next day delivery.

Needed a small length of 16 AWG silicone wire for my 3D printer, having it here the next day, was worth the £6.98 For 10ft.

Farrell want £2.98 (plus 20% vat) per meter then there’s £5.95 delivery on top.

When setting up my lab (only been doing this hobby a short while), the cheapish Chinese books of 0805 SMD resistors, the cheap sets of electrolyte caps, transistors and voltage regs I got from Amazon, are perfectly fine for my learning.

That said, when I needed to replace a cap recently I didn’t use one from the cheap set, I got one from RS.

I have noticed that Amazon has a lot of dodgy looking goods from 3rd parties on it, it also has a ton of incorrect descriptions from them where unless you read the entire spool of text, you probably won’t be getting what you think you’re getting. Sometimes there’s reviews pointing this out that are over a year or more old,  but it’s still incorrect today.

On Aug 24th I ordered Araldite Epoxy from Amazon, the title said “Araldite ARA-00007 Epoxy, Set of 6”.  Looking at the price I knew it was only going to be 1, not 6. (but you never know).

Sure enough only 1. Rather than complain in the reviews, I decided to try clicking  on the “Report incorrect product information” and explained. I just clicked on same page, now the “set of 6” has been removed.

The Amazon reviews are also usually pointless (99% positive etc) but reading the few negative reviews can give me an opinion of whether the fault is with the buyer (giving bad review because the don’t know what they are doing), or whether it’s total crap.

[Siwastaja]

When you need specifications, and parts that comply to said specifications, only buy from electronics distributors such as Digikey, Mouser, Element14/Farnell, or even lcsc.

Only buy from Amazon/Ebay/Aliexpress when the proper distributors are a non-option. Some trivial connectors being horribly expensive at the distributors, but cheap and good enough on Aliexpress, comes to a mind as an example.

But resistors are cheap even at the distributors. And you get the specs!

[Simon]

Amazon was never created for electronic components and yes many of the descriptions are useless. I often don't buy because clearly the seller is clueless which means I'll get wrong goods. As a seller myself I take pride in the fact that I know what I am selling and can answer technical questions. Amazon is just like ebay in fact both have been approaching each other in terms of practices baring ebay forking out for warehouses to try and take each other out.

Sadly i could not compete with the likes of cheap chinese crap on ebay or the universality of Amazon and gave up on small parts years ago moving instead to very specific products that are not available everywhere as they are more niche.

[Alti]

For breadboarding LEDs, SMPS and digital you need E3, maybe E6, 5 decades, maybe 5% 400ppm if you are picky. But for analog electronics you need E24, 1%, 50ppm at least.
Although you rarely need sub 1R values for analog electronics, >10M is not uncomon.

So, do not bother with Vishay pullups and do not bother with carbon resistors for analog electronics.

[rsjsouza]

IME there's nothing really new. I have seen this happen with capacitors of all brands for ages now... I usually store the bits I clip from the original leads and over the years I can tell which ones are newer and older. The first shrinking leads I saw were about twenty years ago when 1/8W through hole resistors started to become popular. 

[CatalinaWOW]

For breadboarding LEDs, SMPS and digital you need E3, maybe E6, 5 decades, maybe 5% 400ppm if you are picky. But for analog electronics you need E24, 1%, 50ppm at least.
Although you rarely need sub 1R values for analog electronics, >10M is not uncomon.

So, do not bother with Vishay pullups and do not bother with carbon resistors for analog electronics.

So analog electronics did not exist before the 1960s-1970s when virtually all resistors were carbon composition?  I agree that carbon composition has many drawbacks, but it is often suitable to purpose, even in analog electronics.  If you are good enough to design such that the specs on resistors matter you should be good enough to spec resistors that meet the needs of your circuit.