Note how the PCB edges are bowed outwards. The lens distortion has optically placed the PCB on something like a sphere. It may not be a concern to the OP's application but it is something to be aware of if there is a need to align the image with a properly rectangular one or for taking measurements.
This is called barrel distortion. It is not a "lens distortion" as such - but an optical distortion that occurs with
any lens because the corners of the PCB are further away from the lens than the middle of the sides. It is simple physics and unavoidable. Corrective action can certainly be performed in software, but it is always better to get the initial image as perfect as possible - and there is a way....
As mentioned above, barrel distortion is the result of the distance from the lens to the corners being longer than the distance from the lens to the middle of the sides - and all points in between. When things are further from the lens, they are smaller. However, the
degree of the barrel distortion is a function of the percentage difference of the distances involved. These differences decrease - and the barrel distortion gets less and less - the further the lens is from the subject. You can see this for yourself - just take a photo with the camera as close to the subject as possible, while still showing the edges (the one above will do) - and then move the camera as far away as you can for a second shot. (For this purpose, you can use the digital zoom if you want - we are just interested in seeing the difference in barrel distortion, not overall quality as such.) This will demonstrate the difference - which can be significant. (While you are comparing images, also look at the difference in the taller components, such as the capacitors - note their comparative diameters.)
So - getting the camera further away from the subject will improve the barrel distortion situation, but digital zoom will reduce the image quality - so how do we win here? The answer is simple - but finding it in a camera will be a little more of a challenge. It is
Optical zoom. Optical zoom does its job through glass elements moving back and forth, changing the
actual size of the image before it reaches the sensor. While optical zoom systems in affordable cameras (and even expensive ones) are not ideal, they are far, far,
far better than digital zoom systems of
ANY camera. In fact, when choosing a camera, you only need to look at the optical zoom specifications. Forget about digital zoom - because you can do exactly the same manipulation with an image editor after the shoot.
There is a distracting shiny spot on the lower left hand corner and on some non-metalic components. This could be improved with some lighting adjustments or repositioning the PCB, eg. tilting. A polarizing filter can help but will drop the light 3 stops (8x). Or in other words taking a 1/200th shutter speed down to 1/25sec.
Polarizing filters aren't usually necessary - and they are less and less effective as the angle of incidence approaches the perpendicular to the reflective surface. They are completely ineffective on specular (mirror like) reflections at any angle. Better placement of lighting will fix most problems and the addition of a diffuser, or even better for this type of photography, a light tent, will improve things dramatically.
In this PCB shot, there seems to be at least two light sources - one from the top of the picture and the other from over the left shoulder of the photographer. I suspect the camera (and maybe the photographer) got in the way of the "over the shoulder" lighting, causing the shadowed area. This is just another thing to be mindful of.