Basic Soldering Lessons from PACE

[mariush]

Posted this in the chat box but I figure maybe more people see it here.

I only found about these today, they were posted about 5 months ago.

Basic Soldering Lessons ... it looks like it's their actual teaching video tape from the '70 - '80 but imho very few things in the lessons are outdated and there's plenty of quality information with demonstrations, so I'm sure someone will find these interesting.












as a bonus they also have a series of videos titled "Rework and Repair for Electronics", here's lesson 1... you can watch the rest on youtube if interested:

[Psi]

Some quite good info in those videos. Things that are often overlooked.

[sonicj]

good stuff, thanx!
-sj

[LEECH666]

Since the youtube playlist on the Pace channel is all mixed up, here are the other videos in the correct order.









PACE Rework and Repair of Electronics Lesson 6 - "Damage Repair"





Cheers,
Florian

[G7PSK]

I was taught at school that soddering was something that was forbidden by the bible. Why is it that these people cannot pronounce their L's. Other wise the video's are very good, but all that "soddering" drives me mad.

[MikeK]

But the origin of the word is:

"1325–75;  (noun) Middle English soudour  < Old French soudure".

So it makes sense not to pronounce the ell, no?

[IanB]

Only if you don't pronounce the "s" in hospital 

[MikeK]

But the origin of "hospital" does have an ess in it.  "Solder" didn't originate with the ell.  And the French probably got involved in the mess, too, and they're always dropping ell sounds.

I agree that we mispronounce "aluminum", though.

[Rufus]

"Solder" didn't originate with the ell.  And the French probably got involved in the mess, too, and they're always dropping ell sounds.

http://verbmall.blogspot.co.uk/2006/05/silent-letters.html

[G7PSK]

Only the lazy and cockney's do not pronounce the L in salmon. It is there in the correct pronunciation as a soft l not a hard L. 

[robrenz]

Excellent vids,  Although very dated, the content is great.  This should be required viewing for anyone asking soldering questions.

[G7PSK]

I noticed that Pace recommend using an abrasive containing rubber stick for cleaning components and track, A far better tool to my mind as it does not leave bits of rubber and grit afterwards, and the one that I use is a watchmakers glass-fiber pen. These are a pen like device which houses an extendable densely packed glass-fiber brush, a few rubs with this and the metal comes up gleaming without leaving any crud behind. These pen brushes also used to be used by draftsmen years ago for erasing ink on tracing paper.

[IanB]

I did like the emphasis on thorough cleaning of the parts to be soldered before fluxing them. In my limited experience failure to do this can lead to all sorts of problems getting the solder to flow and wet properly.

[robrenz]

I noticed that Pace recommend using an abrasive containing rubber stick for cleaning components and track, A far better tool to my mind as it does not leave bits of rubber and grit afterwards, and the one that I use is a watchmakers glass-fiber pen. These are a pen like device which houses an extendable densely packed glass-fiber brush, a few rubs with this and the metal comes up gleaming without leaving any crud behind. These pen brushes also used to be used by draftsmen years ago for erasing ink on tracing paper.

I like the glass fiber brush also but the one I have leaves microscopic glass fragments/powder that still needs to be cleaned up.

[LEECH666]

Never bothered to use this ... solder flux usually seems to be enough to get good wetting when I am soldering. However I use lead based tin. F*ck that RoHS sh*t.

Cheers,
Florian

[poorchava]

I also deeply despise RoHS. Actually low quality and low mechanical strength of leadfree solder alloys is the main reason why devices such as cellphones, netbooks, laptops, gaming consoles, graphic cards etc ofted need reballing.

While we're at soldering: do you have any experience with these fluxes?
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/solder-soldering-paste-flux-grease-10cc-117099
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/goot-super-soldering-flux-6502

Ordered them, as they are kinda cheap. I wonder if what I'm going to get is genuine AMTECH RMA flux. Goot is probably sh!t, but I will try it anyway

[T4P]

I also deeply despise RoHS. Actually low quality and low mechanical strength of leadfree solder alloys is the main reason why devices such as cellphones, netbooks, laptops, gaming consoles, graphic cards etc ofted need reballing.

While we're at soldering: do you have any experience with these fluxes?
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/solder-soldering-paste-flux-grease-10cc-117099
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/goot-super-soldering-flux-6502

Ordered them, as they are kinda cheap. I wonder if what I'm going to get is genuine AMTECH RMA flux. Goot is probably sh!t, but I will try it anyway

That AMTECH is actually from china, not the original amtech anyway.
The "goot" that they stocked is not the one from japan, this is one is so bad that it leaves a black mark that you can't clean out with IPA ( And will dirty your tip plus it will splash water everywhere )

[poorchava]

I've ordered both the little 'goot' liquid flux and the 'amt' rma flux.

"goot" flux is an utter crap. It is liquid and spills all over the pcb. It actually doesn't wet the solder pads and forms drops. Such drop literally explodes when touched with a tip. There is no brush or other applicator. It causes solder joints to be matte instead of shiny (as they should be). It produces badly smelling and irritating fumes. Also leaves nasty residue on the pcb. I don't recommend that.

"amt" flux which i got is a fake one with spelling errors (state of Cofomia and the like). Despite being an obvious copy it works quite good, for what i do. I'll have yet to test it with something more serious like .5 or .4 mm pitch QFP. My only concern is that the actual composition of that flux is totally unknown, so it may contain some highly toxic chemicals. I also wonder if the true AMT company is doing something to remove these counterfeit products from the market.

[T4P]

I've ordered both the little 'goot' liquid flux and the 'amt' rma flux.

"goot" flux is an utter crap. It is liquid and spills all over the pcb. It actually doesn't wet the solder pads and forms drops. Such drop literally explodes when touched with a tip. There is no brush or other applicator. It causes solder joints to be matte instead of shiny (as they should be). It produces badly smelling and irritating fumes. Also leaves nasty residue on the pcb. I don't recommend that.

"amt" flux which i got is a fake one with spelling errors (state of Cofomia and the like). Despite being an obvious copy it works quite good, for what i do. I'll have yet to test it with something more serious like .5 or .4 mm pitch QFP. My only concern is that the actual composition of that flux is totally unknown, so it may contain some highly toxic chemicals. I also wonder if the true AMT company is doing something to remove these counterfeit products from the market.

Yeah ... the "goot" is awful ... if you read it's made of hydro-something acid