A tale of two Lemo connectors

[perdrix]

So here's a picture of two "Lemo" connectors.



One was purchased in the UK and is without question a genuine Lemo part.

The other one was bought from a vendor on AliExpress who sells "Lemo" connectors.

I think the thing that totally surprised me is that the quality of the "fake" is very, very good indeed.   It is so good that I left 5 star feeback on AliExpress!!!

Can you tell the fake from the real one?

Dave

[2N3055]

Bottom one... ?

[MarkS]

It is difficult to say, but I'd guess the bottom one is the fake. There isn't as much attention to detail, from what I can see.

[H.O]

I would've guessed that the bottom one was the real deal, but what looks to be a burr on the back side made me change my mind despite the fact that the overall finish looks better on the bottom one. So bottom one is the fake (?)

Are both brand new, the top one looks like it's been used?

Are they supposed to be the same type? They look different with regards to "keying".

[MarkS]

The keying is definitely different, but look at the pitiful machining job done on the keying on the bottom connector. I don't know which keying is correct, but the bottom connector shows a lack of care on this point. The finish on the top one looks better. This isn't a fault of machining or molding, but rather an intentional patterning engraved or etched into the mold. This costs money. There is also the machined flats on the chrome part, allowing for a wrench to grab. While the red dot is recessed on the bottom one, the paint overlaps the top of the indentation.

There seems to be an overall lack of care in the construction of the bottom connector.

[firehopper]

the top one?

[BravoV]

Lol ... I guess with these photos below (genuine vs fake), you guys will get the clue. 

Agree, the fake ones now are really-really good.

[perdrix]

It's the lower one that's the copy, but it's still an extremely good copy.

Yes, the upper one has had a bit of use.

Cheers
Dave

[MarkS]

Yay! I won!

[firehopper]

yay I guessed correctly

[HighVoltage]

Impressive!

Until now I have only bought real LEMO from a German supplier.
For the last single LEMO connector I just paid 78 Euro a week ago!

Hmm, may be time to look in to alternatives.
 

[rdl]

The top one looks like plastic that came from a worn mold and was painted silver. The bottom one looks like crisply machined metal. I'd probably buy the bottom one.

[m98]

BravoV: The right one is genuine?

[BravoV]

BravoV: The right one is genuine?

Left is the genuine one. 

And its at the same consistent side throughout all photos, and the genuine is used, and fake one is new.

The last photo shows the different which is the genuine has the laser marked label.

Bought this almost > 2 years ago, though I don't know whats the current fakes looks like, but I believe its just the matter of time they will perfected it, like the label for example.

[ConKbot]

The top one looks like plastic that came from a worn mold and was painted silver. The bottom one looks like crisply machined metal. I'd probably buy the bottom one.

Top one looks like it was finished in a vibratory tumbler to deburr the parts before it went for anoziding/finishing. Though the burr on the backshell wrench flat is a little more telling IMO.  Very hard to tell indeed

As far as the ones BravoV posted is a lot more telling, though the first picture has nothing I can nitpick, the 2nd set of pictures is where the story starts.
1:The cuts on the cord grip (I think that is what that is) on the genuine one are either helical or at a slant angle (cant tell) but the round bottom of the cut means it was done with an endmill, on either a 4th axis machine or if its an angled slant, then a 3-axis with a suitably oriented indexer would work. The round bottom would help prevent cracks on that as it gets flexed.   The clone part was done with a slitting saw, so only 3 passes were needed and a saw should be a good bit faster than such a small endmill. The corners are potential stress riser on something that flexes, but probably fine in the grand scheme of things given it probably only flexes a few times in its lifetime. Plus saw blades with rounded cut profiles are available if they cared to.

2: Keying notches on the cord grip. Square vs rounded,  Probably saved a setup step by machining it with an endmill while the part was perpendicular for some other machining operation, rather than up-ending it to cut a square notch.

3: Keying cutout for the pin insert: Again with the round vs square. But since this is a hole though the clamshell, the one on the right, was just milled though to get a functional slot. The left was either broached out rectangular from a milled slot, punched, or EDMed (Lol probably not. $ $ $ )

All around nothing particularly egregious that makes you say "Well shit that's not gonna work"
However given that the 'normal' metal LEMO connectors are chrome/nickel plated brass or nickel plated 'brass/bronze' (per their catalog) I suspect the metallurgy will be a significant portion of the cost savings in the clone. Springy bits out of brass instead of a nice phosphor bronze, cheaper grade of brass for the body, etc.

I suspect you might not notice on something like a camera cable where its the connector isnt getting abused because its connected to a $ $ Pricy $ $ camera.

[rx8pilot]

I buy a lot of Lemo and Fischer connectors.  There are indeed a lot of fakes that look good cosmetically, but lack the production details that make up a truly high performance connector. It's kind of like putting a fiberglass body kit on a Honda Civic to make it look like a Ferrari.

The plating flakes, plastic inserts crack, the  materials don't have the consistent spring, etc, etc. I design in Lemo and Fischer for the purpose of high reliability, not the 'look of reliability.

I have yet to find an equal and I have tried. Saving money is a high priority, but not at the expense of function.

Short and misplld from my mobile......

[amyk]

The top one looks like plastic that came from a worn mold and was painted silver. The bottom one looks like crisply machined metal. I'd probably buy the bottom one.

That's what I thought too. The top one doesn't even look like it's got a depression for the red dot and it was just painted on, while the bottom one has --- it's usually the little things like this which fakes usually omit, but this time it seems the opposite...

[dmills]

I design in Lemo and Fischer for the purpose of high reliability, not the 'look of reliability.
I have yet to find an equal and I have tried. Saving money is a high priority, but not at the expense of function.

I would guess that you play in either the Film, TV or field instrumentation spaces?
None of them give a toss for the cost of a real Lemo, it is a bargain compared to loosing a few hours on set because some critical cable has a damaged plug.

We got offered some "Remo" connectors with pressed contacts, rubbish they were, but I had quite a fight with production over not trying to save a tenner on stuff that installed in top level sports stadia.

Regards, Dan.