Author Topic: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)  (Read 3246762 times)

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Offline dexters_lab

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8000 on: January 05, 2017, 02:10:23 pm »
i can certainly look at some of the higher current questions / destructive testing

i have two Keysight 6632 bench PSUs here so i can source and sink circa 4-5 amps at the same time, or is it preferable to use real-world products to test in?

i have dichloromethane here so can look at depotting the circuit off the sleeve, though the PCB is paper thin so i doubt there would be much left of it before the potting compound softens. It seems to be quite hard, its certainly not soft silicone.

Offline cowana

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8001 on: January 05, 2017, 02:12:47 pm »
Don't think we have seen decent photos of the AA PCB yet.

True - a lot of the testing so far has been on AAAs, and assuming performance on AAs (more common) will be similar.
 

Offline crimsonknight3

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8002 on: January 05, 2017, 02:14:38 pm »
I think this is going along the same lines as the batteriser, so I decided to post here hoping some of the more techy people are following the thread rather than just people enjoying the drama.

I assume the batteriser is essentially a joule thief?

I've been wondering, if a joule thief is installed with 20 led's in series from a new set of batteries, will the led's last just as long, longer or shorter... My assumption is just as long or shorter due to more energy being wasted by the current limiting resistor for the led's, am I close?

Thanks :)
 

Offline ccs46

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8003 on: January 05, 2017, 02:19:22 pm »
Normal people... believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet. - Scott Adams
 

Offline ccs46

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8004 on: January 05, 2017, 02:26:56 pm »
I think this is going along the same lines as the batteriser, so I decided to post here hoping some of the more techy people are following the thread rather than just people enjoying the drama.

I assume the batteriser is essentially a joule thief?

I've been wondering, if a joule thief is installed with 20 led's in series from a new set of batteries, will the led's last just as long, longer or shorter... My assumption is just as long or shorter due to more energy being wasted by the current limiting resistor for the led's, am I close?

Thanks :)
Its a glorified boost converter...Thats all it is...  :bullshit: To quote Dave:
Quote
No on the forum denies that Batteriser will work, it will work as a boost converter, but not going to do what the Batterbros are saying it will...
It will work slightly longer, but the Batteriser renders gauges useless so from my understanding it would basically work til it died immediately. And from my limited EE experience, Correct me if I'm wrong,  I think it will be affected by the resistor, but the Batteriser might counter for that. So it might be a little bit shorter, but not much.
Normal people... believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Engineers believe that if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet. - Scott Adams
 

Offline Godzil

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8005 on: January 05, 2017, 02:28:46 pm »
Hum I wonder how much the Baterooser will impact the battery life of a really efficient WonderSwan (a Japanese handheld game console) that run on a single AA battery, and can run for dozen of hour (about 30 hours on the original model, ~15 hours on the latest with a colour screen)

Sadly I don't have any Batterooser :( ;)
When you make hardware without taking into account the needs of the eventual software developers, you end up with bloated hardware full of pointless excess. From the outset one must consider design from both a hardware and software perspective.
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Offline dr_frost_dk

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8006 on: January 05, 2017, 02:55:45 pm »
i can certainly look at some of the higher current questions / destructive testing

i have two Keysight 6632 bench PSUs here so i can source and sink circa 4-5 amps at the same time, or is it preferable to use real-world products to test in?

i have dichloromethane here so can look at depotting the circuit off the sleeve, though the PCB is paper thin so i doubt there would be much left of it before the potting compound softens. It seems to be quite hard, its certainly not soft silicone.

If you have the equipment then get some curves on performance, e.g. what % efficiency at given input voltage and output current etc.
This would really be the last nail in the coffin if it can be shown that unless you use a VERY specific load/device then the batteriser will be hopeless and give less runtime as all tests are showing so far.
 

Offline Fungus

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8007 on: January 05, 2017, 03:21:11 pm »
I assume the batteriser is essentially a joule thief?

Yes and no. There's important differences.

A joule thief produces a stream of voltage spikes from an inductor. Spikes are enough to make LEDs flash briefly (and visibly) but in no way is it useful as a power supply.

A power supply (eg batteriser) has to regulate those spikes down to a fixed voltage and provide a sustained current.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 03:22:45 pm by Fungus »
 

Offline Pilleville

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8008 on: January 05, 2017, 05:21:02 pm »
Don't think we have seen decent photos of the AA PCB yet.

True - a lot of the testing so far has been on AAAs, and assuming performance on AAs (more common) will be similar.
The performance on AAs should be abit worse, since the sleeve has to operate over a wider current range, right? The boost converter can't be optimized for more then one point if it's static. If high current AAA setups gives heating problems, then AAs would require another chip totally and maybe another sleeve design to heat sink more.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 05:33:20 pm by Pilleville »
 

Offline JiggyNinja

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8009 on: January 05, 2017, 05:56:47 pm »
Don't think we have seen decent photos of the AA PCB yet.

True - a lot of the testing so far has been on AAAs, and assuming performance on AAs (more common) will be similar.
The performance on AAs should be abit worse, since the sleeve has to operate over a wider current range, right? The boost converter can't be optimized for more then one point if it's static. If high current AAA setups gives heating problems, then AAs would require another chip totally and maybe another sleeve design to heat sink more.
It's probably not the physical limits of the chip that are causing the reported heat issues. They're too extreme. I believe the leading candidate is the sleeve shorting out the battery, either through a physical connection bridging of the + and - terminals or the converter chip latching up.
 

Offline PeterL

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8010 on: January 05, 2017, 06:00:03 pm »
Don't think we have seen decent photos of the AA PCB yet.

True - a lot of the testing so far has been on AAAs, and assuming performance on AAs (more common) will be similar.
The performance on AAs should be abit worse, since the sleeve has to operate over a wider current range, right? The boost converter can't be optimized for more then one point if it's static. If high current AAA setups gives heating problems, then AAs would require another chip totally and maybe another sleeve design to heat sink more.
It could also be better, since there is more space for capacitors and it could have a better inductor.
 

Offline ez24

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8011 on: January 05, 2017, 06:01:27 pm »
8 of the AA sleeves arrived with me today, in fact they were delivered last week but i had to pick them up from the post office

open to suggestions as to what to do with them

more testing? blow them up? give some away?

How about just check the fit in what you have and report the results (the fit)
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Offline Mr.B

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8012 on: January 05, 2017, 06:35:29 pm »
OT: This is post number 8087.
Now equal longest thread with https://www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/
Where are we going, and why are we in a handbasket?
 

Offline Godzil

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8013 on: January 05, 2017, 07:16:20 pm »
The article in French is.. This guy does not understand the thing at all::

Quote
Avec un appareil en charge active : Partant d’un constat qu’une pile délivre 1.2v en pleine charge, elle s’use parce qu’elle ne tiens plus son courant d’1.2v malgré qu’il reste encore un peu de charge. Vos appareils (télécommande, caméra vidéo etc) eux ont besoin d’un courant maximal : Par exemple 4.8v si vous utilisez 4 piles. Si l’une d’entre elle est morte et ne délivre plus que 0,5v par exemple, votre appareil, en temps normal, ne fonctionnera pas.

Translation:

Quote
With an active device: From the constat that a battery give 1.2V when full, it wear because it does not hold it's current of 1.2V even if there are still some charge left. Your devices (remote, camera, ...) need a maximum current: For exemple 4.8V if you use 4 batteries. If one of them is dead and only deliver 0.5, for example, your device will no longuer work

Mixing current and voltage, I don't understand what the "need a maximum current" mean in this context, It would be meaningful with a "minimum current", but maximum?
« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 07:24:20 pm by Godzil »
When you make hardware without taking into account the needs of the eventual software developers, you end up with bloated hardware full of pointless excess. From the outset one must consider design from both a hardware and software perspective.
-- Yokoi Gunpei
 

Offline Hensingler

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8014 on: January 05, 2017, 08:03:28 pm »
Quote
Revive Batteries shared Batteroo's post.
19 hrs ·

Frost & Sullivan appear to be quite a respected organisation that have been around for more than 50 years worldwide. Some of their Australian Awards went to companies such as Telstra, Philips, Microsoft, Samsung, Verizon etc.

Frost & Sullivan seem to have our Darwin man fooled. How does he think Telstra, Philips, Microsoft etc could stop Frost & Sullivan giving them awards? Maybe he should ask Frost & Sullivan if they can make up an award to sell him as well. I'm sure they could photoshop him into one of their presentations for a small fee.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 08:06:55 pm by Hensingler »
 

Offline lpickup

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8015 on: January 05, 2017, 08:28:25 pm »
Here's some interesting reading if you want to peek behind the Frost & Sullivan curtain (read the comments at the end of the blog post...several are from ex-F&S "analysts")

https://billanddave.wordpress.com/2007/06/03/frost-sullivan-award/

Example:
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F&S is one big joke. I should know, I used to work there, and wrote many of these awards myself. Yes, the awards are usually selected by a careful analysis… meaning they are given to the company whom they feel will be gullible enough to license the award and purchase the paperweight.
 

Offline lpickup

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8016 on: January 05, 2017, 08:30:31 pm »
Here's another snippet from the comments, which seems very relevant to the whole "refuting BS" rant Dave did today:

Quote
As someone said, you can never defeat an ignorant man in a conversation.

Possibly based on this quote from Mark Twain:
Quote
Never argue with stupid people, they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience.
« Last Edit: January 05, 2017, 08:33:39 pm by lpickup »
 

Offline SL4P

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8017 on: January 05, 2017, 08:31:48 pm »
Quote
Revive Batteries shared Batteroo's post.
19 hrs ·

Frost & Sullivan appear to be quite a respected organisation that have been around for more than 50 years worldwide. Some of their Australian Awards went to companies such as Telstra, Philips, Microsoft, Samsung, Verizon etc.

Frost & Sullivan seem to have our Darwin man fooled. How does he think Telstra, Philips, Microsoft etc could stop Frost & Sullivan giving them awards? Maybe he should ask Frost & Sullivan if they can make up an award to sell him as well. I'm sure they could photoshop him into one of their presentations for a small fee.
Wow!
 50 years... that means those X-ray glasses sold on the back cover of 1950s comic books were real too
I should have bought them back then, they'd be worth a fortune now.  :)
Don't ask a question if you aren't willing to listen to the answer.
 

Offline Cerebus

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8018 on: January 06, 2017, 12:10:46 am »
The article in French is.. This guy does not understand the thing at all::

Quote
Avec un appareil en charge active : Partant d’un constat qu’une pile délivre 1.2v en pleine charge, elle s’use parce qu’elle ne tiens plus son courant d’1.2v malgré qu’il reste encore un peu de charge. Vos appareils (télécommande, caméra vidéo etc) eux ont besoin d’un courant maximal : Par exemple 4.8v si vous utilisez 4 piles. Si l’une d’entre elle est morte et ne délivre plus que 0,5v par exemple, votre appareil, en temps normal, ne fonctionnera pas.

Translation:

Quote
With an active device: From the constat that a battery give 1.2V when full, it wear because it does not hold it's current of 1.2V even if there are still some charge left. Your devices (remote, camera, ...) need a maximum current: For exemple 4.8V if you use 4 batteries. If one of them is dead and only deliver 0.5, for example, your device will no longuer work

Mixing current and voltage, I don't understand what the "need a maximum current" mean in this context, It would be meaningful with a "minimum current", but maximum?

If you're relying on that translation I don't think you can draw any conclusions on the writer's understanding.

My French is pretty ropey after more than thirty years away from the subject, but even taking that into account I can clearly see that the translation falls far short of satisfactory. 

For instance, constat (which wasn't translated) means observation and the sentence fragment "Partant d’un constat qu’une pile délivre 1.2v en pleine charge," translates as "Starting from the observation that a fully charged battery delivers 1.2V," which is a long way from the translation given.
Anybody got a syringe I can use to squeeze the magic smoke back into this?
 

Offline Brumby

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8019 on: January 06, 2017, 12:21:04 am »
If you're relying on that translation I don't think you can draw any conclusions on the writer's understanding.

My French is pretty ropey after more than thirty years away from the subject, but even taking that into account I can clearly see that the translation falls far short of satisfactory. 

For instance, constat (which wasn't translated) means observation and the sentence fragment "Partant d’un constat qu’une pile délivre 1.2v en pleine charge," translates as "Starting from the observation that a fully charged battery delivers 1.2V," which is a long way from the translation given.

My French is practically non-existent - but my experience with Google translate can only reinforce what Cerebus has said.  Those translations often need a very broad "interpretive" approach that benefits from understanding the content and making the phrases fit into a construct that makes sense.

Your:
Quote
I don't understand what the "need a maximum current" mean in this context,
is an example where this would, I believe, be necessary.  Either that, or learn the original language.
 

Offline Don Hills

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8020 on: January 06, 2017, 12:26:11 am »
...
It's probably not the physical limits of the chip that are causing the reported heat issues. They're too extreme. I believe the leading candidate is the sleeve shorting out the battery, either through a physical connection bridging of the + and - terminals or the converter chip latching up.

Metal case flashlights are often conductive on the inside surface. It could also be Batteroo sleeves shorting out against one another in the style of holder that has the cells side by side. That could be another test - see how durable the coating on the sleeves is.
 

Offline jancumps

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8021 on: January 06, 2017, 12:30:23 am »
It's not google that made the mistake. The French writer says that the battery can't hold a current of 1.2V. He should use the word 'tension' instead of 'courant'.
 

Offline dr_frost_dk

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8022 on: January 06, 2017, 12:44:43 am »
Lets see how long this comment will stay up before it is deleted.

Quote
Indie Black
Do you have any comment on why the product performed so poorly in this test?
 

Offline FrankBuss

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8023 on: January 06, 2017, 01:03:44 am »
The other issue with camera flashguns is outdoor cold temperature use. Cold batteries perform poorly so if a batteriser could overcome that it would help.

Well, some of the deleted Indiegogo comments suggest that Batteroo can help heating it up a bit :-DD
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Offline kalleboo

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Re: EEVblog #751 - How To Debunk A Product (The Batteriser)
« Reply #8024 on: January 06, 2017, 01:50:51 am »
My AA's just arrived. The packaging is "batteroo" including the plastic case, but the sleeves themselves are "batteriser". I did NOT get the letter about active/passive loads. I've included a full scan of the paper sleeve for those who want to investigate their advertising claims. There are no CE markings or anything like that.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2017, 01:53:17 am by kalleboo »
 
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