Hi everyone, I'm new here (Adam is my name, introductions aside as I need to post this)...
This is the YIHUA 937: Newer, more expensive, and more scary. A digital version which retails for $40-$50 here.
10mhz 8-bit MCU @ 20 PINS @ 4KB ROM ( big endian - probably an 8051 )
SAMSUNG -> Q328E (U3) 20-PIN
S3F94C4EEZ - DK94
K903B1
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/product/microcontroller/detail?productId=6803Fairchild Semiconductor 400V Optocoupler/Optoisolator Bridge
F -> MOC3041 (U2) 6-PIN
317Q
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/MO/MOC3041M.htmlGeneral purpose dual op amp @ 0.6 V/uS slew @ 1.1Mhz @ 5V supply
LM358N (U4) 8-PIN
YR1006
http://www.st.com/web/en/catalog/sense_power/FM123/SC61/SS1378/PF637214-quadrant AC TRIAC (high voltage switch w/phase control, suggestive that this isn't a PID system)
BT137
600E
NXP -> PJA303 - A5 - 3 PIN
( SOLDER MASK SIDE )
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BT137-600E.pdfNotice: Don't open the case without gloves. I got flux paste on my gloves. There might be other chemicals.
This is useable if you disassemble the handpiece and wash with a damp cloth and quality dishsoap (something like dawn ultra).
I highly suggest a commercial neutral PH quat @ 1:40 ratio to disinfect and remove anything on the plastic (I am a BSW also by trade)...
The reasoning is that everything has been recycled and nothing is new.
The way this was assembled it's suggestive that someone probably could die during the process, and it still would've made it out the door.
It was probably too scary to finish so they just put it in the case and sent it out. The soldering iron doesn't fit in the stand,
so they crack the top part to make it fit. Normally an adult would have clipped it off, and used a plastic deburring tool. You can get them
for metal too that has rough/rusted or problem edges.
Suggestions for improvement to the designers:
1.) Drill out the back, deburr the edges, put in an AC receptacle, only use 13 amp rated power cords
2.) MOVs + HRC fusing + MPX line caps/filtering
3.) Larger caps on the board for more charge on the plates = better thermal mass on the tip
3A.) This particular model is designed for explosions, so smaller caps, more space = less chance of PCB burns
3B.) Because of A + B = you would have to redesign this as a switching PSU (add quad-wave rectifiers + DC/DC converter + LDO regulators + more things this can't do, etc)
4.) Better wiring in the handle, next time use a micrometer to design your tips so it fits snug with the ceramic element ( I suggest designspark mechanical which is free )
5.) TRIAC needs a heatsink
6.) All those ICs can be replaced by a single SoC
7.) Get rid of the 100k potentiometer and replace with a rotary shaft encoder or something else
8.) New PCB with more than just one solder mask on the side ( FR2 doesn't cut it )
9.) Segment LCD display is a waste of time, graphic LCD instead
10.) The samsung MCU isn't because this thing is a PID industrial controller. It's not even remotely fast enough to be one.
12.) New case could probably more durable. The plastic standoffs on here crack or break if dropped. It
would be nice to see some metal threading in the standoffs so you can assemble, and disassemble it as much as you like...
I would suggest renaming the station to the YIHUA SOLDERING REVENGE CLASSICS...
(similar to creepypasta pokemon conspiracy theories)
http://creepypasta.wikia.com/wiki/Lavender_Town_Mysteries:_Missing_Frequencies_and_Lavender_Town_Syndrome_(LTS)Here's the theme song if you want to use this soldering station how it is: