EEVblog #183 - Soldering tutorial part 2

[Bored@Work]

One is antistatic the other is not:
Not antistatic http://www.ersa.com/art-0ana60-358-1910.html (140€ = 200$)
antistatic http://www.ersa.com/art-0ana60a-358-1913.html (180€ = 258$)

The 0ANA60 "non antistactic" doesn't seem to be "non antistatic". From the web page

A potential equalization jack with a high-resistance connection to the soldering tip ensures the safety of sensitive components.

This sounds like this "non antistatic" can be properly connected to ground to make sure the tip doesn't carry any static. I would say this is good enough for almost all tasks.

[ipman]

Same for 0RDS80 digital one. The plus is the Europlug - two poles, non-earthed, but it has a separate grounding point on it's front side.

[Mercator]

Thanks a lot!

ERSA ANALOG 60 A soldering station is fully antistatic in compliance with MIL-SPEC/ESA standards [...]

I won't manufacture any aircraft parts in my basement, so the non antistatic should work fine indeed.

[alm]

Same for 0RDS80 digital one. The plus is the Europlug - two poles, non-earthed, but it has a separate grounding point on it's front side.

Which is just fine, since the point of anti-ESD is to make sure everything is at the same potential. Whether that potential is at ground or 115V doesn't matter as far as ESD is concerned. Earth is just a convenient potential and saves you from wiring everything together.

[gregariz]

Thermal stress is caused by components heating and cooling. This stress can lead to joint failure over time due to the component expanding and contracting. Mainly applies to high current devices.

Regards

When I went through tech school we were given a special set of round pliers and were taught that in some cases ie high current resistors to put a loop in either one leg or both legs of the resistor for thermal stress relief. I have seen it rarely since then. I suspect in the commercial world you are not likely to see it.

[Mechatrommer]

horay i received my chisel tip. the price is very cheap (~usd1.8 per tip, i ordered 4). what surprised me is the plastic showing Hakko label etc, its like true original, but there's no Hakko etching on the tip body. quite an effort from cloner. can someone spot/state the difference of cloned with the true original tip or plastic packaging? i have another tip with Hakko name etched on the tip, but i forgot how the plastic packaging looks like, still i'm not sure if its original.

[vk6zgo]

Thermal stress is caused by components heating and cooling. This stress can lead to joint failure over time due to the component expanding and contracting. Mainly applies to high current devices.

Regards

When I went through tech school we were given a special set of round pliers and were taught that in some cases ie high current resistors to put a loop in either one leg or both legs of the resistor for thermal stress relief. I have seen it rarely since then. I suspect in the commercial world you are not likely to see it.

Yeah,I remember that ,too!
If I'm replacing a resistor that has obviously cooked the PCB under it,I will sometimes do this in DC  or 50Hz circuits.
Here,though the resistor is the source of heat,& hopefully the looped lead will act as a sort of heatsink to protect the PCB,not the resistor.
If the leads are sturdy enough,I usually just mount the resistor further off the board.

I think the mechanical stress on the resistor when making the loops is probably worse than the heat stress it is meant to reduce.

VK6ZGO

[PeterG]

I still use the curled legs on the 5watt resistors and keep them off the board. It just helps to stop the resistor from breaking.

Regards

[Harvs]

For those also owning a Hakko, check out their "tip selector" page

http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/

Not only talk about each type of tip, but they have videos for how to solder each type of joint with each type of tip. 

Seriously cool...

[IanB]

For those also owning a Hakko, check out their "tip selector" page

http://www.hakko.com/english/tip_selection/

Not only talk about each type of tip, but they have videos for how to solder each type of joint with each type of tip. 

Seriously cool...

OK, on that Hakko page I see this text about the "cup" shaped tip:

How to use Shape BCM/CM and examples
This type differs from Shape BC by the addition of a hollow to its cut face, providing high solder retention capability.
It is used for drag soldering and correction of bridging.
* Shape BCM/CM are not available for sale or use in the U.S.A

So here's the question: why not to be used in the USA? It is worded like some kind of legal restriction. A patent issue?

[Bored@Work]

So here's the question: why not to be used in the USA? It is worded like some kind of legal restriction. A patent issue?

A patent issue would be my first guess, too.

[Kiriakos-GR]

I have watched the all video today.

It waked up memories 25 years old. 

When I got invited to work as trainee in one shop with electronic repairs,
the first thing that they told me was : Son we need to see what you can do about soldering ?
They gave to me four cables half meter long, and they asked me to solder them, from end to end.
I did so.

Then they tried to separate them by pulling is the opposite directions.
All four cables did pass the test, and I got the job.     ( at 1986)

 

[IanB]

They gave to me four cables half meter long, and they asked me to solder them, from end to end.
I did so.

Then they tried to separate them by pulling is the opposite directions.
All four cables did pass the test, and I got the job.     ( at 1986)

First rule of soldering: first make a mechanical joint, then make an electrical joint. I trust you twisted the wires together before you soldered them?

[ivan747]

As long as such an adapter is used as designed (connecting the lug to a grounded screw in the socket), it should be fine. Not great, but not terrible either.

Generally, who buys these kind of adapters and don't ground them can't figure out their 50 year old house need to be rewired.

[ivan747]

I like it too, but the problem is: It's much more expensive in Germany. In the US a FX-888 costs $94.97 = 66€ at amazon.com.

I was pissed off too when I realized the Atten rework station Dave reviewed costs something like $120 with a 110V transformer. Normally, it would cost $60. It is twice the price! I will look for a 220V line at home. They are used or air conditioners here. (those that hang in the middle of the wall) The only problem is that they use two live wires, one phased 180º to the other. I hope the Atten can perform well with that wiring.

[gregariz]

I like it too, but the problem is: It's much more expensive in Germany. In the US a FX-888 costs $94.97 = 66€ at amazon.com.

I was pissed off too when I realized the Atten rework station Dave reviewed costs something like $120 with a 110V transformer. Normally, it would cost $60. It is twice the price! I will look for a 220V line at home. They are used or air conditioners here. (those that hang in the middle of the wall) The only problem is that they use two live wires, one phased 180º to the other. I hope the Atten can perform well with that wiring.

There are some 110v available
http://cgi.ebay.com/ATTEN-858D-SMD-Hot-Air-Rework-Station-Solder-110V-AC-/220796808609?pt=BI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools&hash=item336883eda1

[nzo]

Holy smokes Dave! I really enjoy your hi quality vids but...if I download a few of these (at around 500 to 600Mb each), it sure bites into my monthly bandwidth

Why not run them through something like Sorenson Squeeze. You could easily halve the size and bandwidth of each vid without sacrificing quality.

[chrisstra84]

Hello! Thank you for the great video! I have made a new version of my isp connector after your video.

New and old version!

[jgalak]

In the video, there's a text overlay saying there are better cleaners for removing flux residue.  What are they? Just alcohol?  Something better?