Yes, and on some the lower current ranges it can be pretty high as well. Some analogue meters used the lowest voltage range, with a shunt resistor, as the most sensitive current range, so you could actually have 3V burden voltage at the lowest current range or around 50uA full scale. Head scratch time, till I looked at the circuit, conveniently given in the manual, and saw that the 50uA range was the exact same circuit as the 3V range, just a different portion of the range switch used to make it. But what do you expect from a 1980's era $1 analogue meter, which was the one I as a scholar could afford. Yes I did blow it up a few times on resistance range, though on current range there was (actually on all the ranges) a 1A fuse in series with the input. fixed those cooked resistors by looking for "close enough" values on scrap PCB's, and soldered them in. Then checked, and resistance was close enough, or at least not too different from before with that non linear scale, and anyway hard to read anything over half of the range of resistance, as the scale got really cramped at that left side. But good enough for continuity, and checking if a lamp was 6V, 12V or 48V, before blowing up the 6V lamp on 12V.
Never did find that fluorescent lamp starter I connected across the mains, to see it glow for longer than the normal half second though. But good news was that the new to the house earth leakage breaker, installed in the laundry, which powered the plugs in the garage (and as a side note this was from Australia, as it had 2 Aus socket outlets, with matching non sleeved plugs as well, used to connect the wiring, and actual 20A circuit breaker as well) and laundry, so as not to shock mom when the iron cord got leaky, did work, along with the 20A breaker. Reset after my ears had recovered from the bang, but before the dog came back from where he departed to at high speed.
Rest of the house still had rewireable fuses, and I was generally the one to climb up on top of the Defy Range, open the panel, and pull out the fuses to find the blown one, and wire it up again using the little screwdriver and paper cards of fuse wire, there on top of the wooden case for this purpose. Fuse wire, 5A, 10A and 15A, normally 4 turns of whatever was left on the card, so the sockets and stove would work again. Old house, so the lights were 2.5mm, the plugs 4mm and the geyser and stove 6mm copper wire. But at least it was PVC sleeved, even if the sleeve dripped green goo, not the older brittle DCC rubber wire. That was the wire from the meter to the board.