Which Fuse to buy

[abgo58]

Hello,

My LG plasma tv made some pop sound and stopped working. I opened up its back and with a multi-meter found out that that a fuse is blown. There may be other things wrong too but multi-meter connectivity on the fuse didn't work.

Markings on fuse are such Lf (for little fuse?) T10A H 250 VP. It think its a 10 amp 250v ceramic fuse. right? I found out that home depot carries a similar type of fuse. Link : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-Bussmann-ABC-Series-10-Amp-Silver-Electronic-Fuses-2-Pack-BP-ABC-10/100207527

The fuse does not have a wire attached at both ends. Can I add wire/lead on on the fuse? if yes, how?

I also found this fuse on mouser.com. Link https://www.mouser.com/productdetail/?qs=TSScP84zSErMyPHYOJM52Q%3D%3D.

The fuse on mouser does have leads/wires at the ends. Ordering them will mean I will have to wait days for them to arrive. From home depot, I can get in 30 minutes.

So, in essence - I want to find
 1) what are these types of fuses called -  Axial fuses or Cartridges?
 2) Can I buy these cartridge/axial for the fuses and attach them to a fuse? If so, from where?

Thanks,

[wraper]

Yes you can solder leads to it. However, fuse is the least of your problems, it's almost guaranteed that something else is faulty. If you just replace the fuse and power the TV, fuse will blow up again and the fault likely to become even worse. Fuse on the first link is fast acting type but you need slow (time delay) type as T letter in the marking suggests.

Ordering them will mean I will have to wait days for them to arrive.

Mouser certainly should offer overnight shipping. Again, if you just replace the fuse a day faster, then you'll just blow it up again faster.

[madires]

Look for "wired fuse", the correct size and matching rating. "T" means slow blow. But my guess is that the PSU of your TV is blown too. I'd suggest to go to a proper repair shop.

[abgo58]

Thank you for the response. This is an old plasma tv. I am trying to see if it can be fixed. Do not wish to spend much money on it.

I have been researching on what else can be wrong too. Since the TV was completely dead, I didn't know where to start. I found out there is a power repair kit sold by shopjimmy. It is inexpensive $15. link : http://www.shopjimmy.com/lg-eay62812701-eax648800016-pspl-l204a-power-supply-repair-kit.htm

I am thinking to buy the kit and replace all the parts out. Is that a good option? Any suggestion/advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

[madires]

The repair kit might be worth a try. Any bulged caps on the PSU board?

[tooki]

T10A means 10 amp, slow blow. H means high breaking capacity (ceramic). 250V means the voltage rating, and P means lead-free. Cf http://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/files/littelfuse/technical-resources/documents/reference-documents/littelfuse_5x20mm-iec-fuse-cap-marking_guide.pdf

I wouldn’t try soldering leads onto a fuse; I speculate that the fuse wire itself would melt. You could of course easily just wire in a fuse holder instead. It may also be possible to pull off the leaded caps from the blown fuse.

I don’t know what fuse you found (that link contains only the search ID, not the product number), but Mouser part number 530-0ADKP9100-RE should work as a replacement. It’s rated at a higher maximum voltage, which is totally fine. (On the Mouser website, fuses with leads are in “Circuit Protection > Fuses > Fuses with Leads (through hole)”.)

Assuming it’s a normal 5x20mm size, I suspect this is the exact part: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/littelfuse-inc/0215010.MXEP/F3481-ND/777448


Of course, it’s important to remember that the fuse blew for a reason. Whatever fault caused it to blow needs to be fixed first, otherwise you’ll just blow the new fuse. (Given that it’s the power input fuse, the first thing to look for is a failed-short component on the AC input rail.)

[tooki]

Come to think of it, what I’d check first is the bridge rectifier. Diodes do have a penchant for failing short-circuit...

[abgo58]

No bulged caps that I could notice. Will give the kit a try.

[tooki]

No bulged caps that I could notice. Will give the kit a try.

Bad caps tend to be impotent, but not usually shorted. The fact a 10A input fuse blew is a strong indicator that something very close to the AC input has gone dead short.

Check the rectifier and any input protection components (e.g. MOVs) and things like chokes for shorts first, before you buy the kit. (Alas, jimmy’s web server seems to block access from here, so I can’t see what it contains.) Remember, the short is likely on the primary side of the power supply.

[drussell]

abgo58 probably really needs a dim-bulb tester for ease of troubleshooting this one...

[bson]

If it has a inrush protector, see if it looks okay.  If it has a cap to introduce a delay and the cap has aged it may switch out a current limiter prematurely.  If it uses a relay, see if the relay seems to function like it should.