Author Topic: What tool do you use to tighten these weird nuts on some banana plugs?  (Read 5565 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline mindcrimeTopic starter

  • Supporter
  • ****
  • Posts: 398
  • Country: us
Most panel mount banana plug connectors I've seen (and most of the ones I have) use a hex nut to tighten the thing to the panel, but recently I ordered some similar to these by mistake:

https://www.amazon.com/Banana-Female-Binding-Adapter-Connectors/dp/B07C7WG23G



So, what exactly do you use to tighten these things? The fasteners look basically like a "spanner nut", but if that's what they are, does anybody know which spanner nut wrench/socket to use for these? Or are they something else altogether?



« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 11:00:15 am by mindcrime »
 

Offline Gyro

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 10769
  • Country: gb
The proper tool looks like a traditional tubular spanner with 2 pips on the end.

Depending on how many I'm doing, I normally resort to bodging it with a pair of right angle circlip pliers, the tips of long fine nose piers (held at an angle), or in extreme cases, 'drifting' the nuts round with a flat blade screwdriver in one of the slots. If you have properly shaped the hole with flats, rather than just circular then this is normally sufficient (but messy).
Best Regards, Chris
 
The following users thanked this post: 5U4GB

Offline jpanhalt

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 4752
  • Country: us
The generic name for the tool is "spanner" wrench.  There are several types.  A face spanner will work, but I would probably just use a pair of long-nose pliers unless I had a lot of them to tighten.  Here is just one link: https://www.aftfasteners.com/spanner-wrenches/

EDIT:  You can also use snap ring pliers.
« Last Edit: July 06, 2021, 10:45:19 am by jpanhalt »
 

Online mikeselectricstuff

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14457
  • Country: gb
    • Mike's Electric Stuff
Youtube channel:Taking wierd stuff apart. Very apart.
Mike's Electric Stuff: High voltage, vintage electronics etc.
Day Job: Mostly LEDs
 
The following users thanked this post: edavid, RJSV, mindcrime

Offline Gyro

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 10769
  • Country: gb
Quote
£17.25Pair

Ouch! I keep meaning to dig out a bit of scrap tube and a file, I just never get around to it at the right time!
Best Regards, Chris
 

Online voltsandjolts

  • Supporter
  • ****
  • Posts: 3233
  • Country: gb
Why go for that cheapskate version when you can have deluxe for a mere 70 bucks?

https://uk.farnell.com/225071

https://www.newark.com/07WX6015
 
The following users thanked this post: Gyro, mindcrime

Offline Terry Bites

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 2957
  • Country: gb
  • Recovering Electrical Engineer
You beat me too it!
 

Offline jpanhalt

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 4752
  • Country: us
Guys with the cylinders/sockets: What if a wire is already connected to the tab on the female socket?  The question was how to tighten, not remove :)
 

Online mikeselectricstuff

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14457
  • Country: gb
    • Mike's Electric Stuff
Guys with the cylinders/sockets: What if a wire is already connected to the tab on the female socket?  The question was how to tighten, not remove :)
Cut a slot along the length of the tube, like a cable gland spanner

Youtube channel:Taking wierd stuff apart. Very apart.
Mike's Electric Stuff: High voltage, vintage electronics etc.
Day Job: Mostly LEDs
 
The following users thanked this post: SeanB

Offline ChuckDarwin

  • Regular Contributor
  • *
  • Posts: 59
  • Country: gu
For installing un-wired, look for "X-Key Repair Tool" on your favourite auction/low-cost site.  Four hollow tubes of differing sizes with fingers arranged in an X, about $10USD.  One tube on mine fits 2mm jacks nicely and a larger tube with 2 of the 4 fingers filed off does the 4mm well.  The key works well for a base platform to modify as needed  For pre-wired, I use 90-degree bent smooth needle nose pliers that I have angled the tips in slightly for better purchase.  They get the job done without too much fuss. 
 
The following users thanked this post: edavid, HighVoltage, tooki, Gyro, Gregg, mindcrime

Offline Gyro

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 10769
  • Country: gb
That's more like it. More the sort of price where it isn't worth the time to make one. :-+
Best Regards, Chris
 

Online HighVoltage

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 5646
  • Country: de
For installing un-wired, look for "X-Key Repair Tool" on your favourite auction/low-cost site. 

I had no idea that there was such low cost tool
Thanks
There are 3 kinds of people in this world, those who can count and those who can not.
 

Offline Fraser

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14483
  • Country: gb
I had seen the tool for mobile radio use but forgot about it. EBay have a good choice. I went for a decent quality example rather than the cheapest. Cost was £7.99 delivered in the UK in 3 days. Not bad for a specialist tool  :-+
ChuckDarwin, thanks for mentioning the X—Key tool  :-+
If I have helped you please consider a donation : https://gofund.me/c86b0a2c
 

Offline David Hess

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 18746
  • Country: us
  • DavidH
I always end up using either pliers to grip the nut at right angles, or my longest needle nose pliers as a spanner.
 

Offline mindcrimeTopic starter

  • Supporter
  • ****
  • Posts: 398
  • Country: us
For installing un-wired, look for "X-Key Repair Tool" on your favourite auction/low-cost site.  Four hollow tubes of differing sizes with fingers arranged in an X, about $10USD.  One tube on mine fits 2mm jacks nicely and a larger tube with 2 of the 4 fingers filed off does the 4mm well.

Awesome, thanks. Found and ordered an "X-Key Repair Tool". I feel better now knowing that I have a (more or less) proper tool for working with these things. I'll probably still mostly favor the hex-nut ones, but since I have a bag of these other ones lying around now, might as well use them at some point.
 

Offline Fraser

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14483
  • Country: gb
I recently purchased some of these 4mm sockets for shrouded plugs as I have a small project that needs this type. I did read somewhere that they can be quite fragile though and the centre insulator can shear away from the rest of the socket. The plastic does look to be a brittle type so I think care is needed when using these particular sockets. More expensive sockets from the likes of MultiComp MultiContact use a softer plastic that is more resilient.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2021, 08:38:46 pm by Fraser »
If I have helped you please consider a donation : https://gofund.me/c86b0a2c
 

Online HighVoltage

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 5646
  • Country: de
I recently purchased some of these 4mm sockets for shrouded plugs as I have a small project that needs this type. I did read somewhere that they can be quite fragile though and the centre insulator can shear away from the rest of the socket. The plastic does look to be a brittle type so I think care is needed when using these particular sockets. More expensive sockets from the likes of MultiComp use a softer plastic that is more resilient.

For this reason,  only use these sockets from MultiContact (Stäubli), Made in Germany.
The quality is so much better than the China copies.

There are 3 kinds of people in this world, those who can count and those who can not.
 

Online tooki

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14757
  • Country: ch
I recently purchased some of these 4mm sockets for shrouded plugs as I have a small project that needs this type. I did read somewhere that they can be quite fragile though and the centre insulator can shear away from the rest of the socket. The plastic does look to be a brittle type so I think care is needed when using these particular sockets. More expensive sockets from the likes of MultiComp use a softer plastic that is more resilient.

For this reason,  only use these sockets from MultiContact (Stäubli), Made in Germany.
The quality is so much better than the China copies.
Are those actually manufactured at their German plant? I’m still seeing Switzerland as the country of origin for their test and measurement connectors.
 

Online tooki

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14757
  • Country: ch
I recently purchased some of these 4mm sockets for shrouded plugs as I have a small project that needs this type. I did read somewhere that they can be quite fragile though and the centre insulator can shear away from the rest of the socket. The plastic does look to be a brittle type so I think care is needed when using these particular sockets. More expensive sockets from the likes of MultiComp use a softer plastic that is more resilient.
Do you actually mean MultiContact (now Stäubli)? MultiComp is Farnell’s house brand, which could be anything…
 

Online HighVoltage

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 5646
  • Country: de

For this reason,  only use these sockets from MultiContact (Stäubli), Made in Germany.
The quality is so much better than the China copies.
Are those actually manufactured at their German plant? I’m still seeing Switzerland as the country of origin for their test and measurement connectors.
Stäubli is in more than 20 countries active with manufacturing.
But I remember talking to them at a trade show and it seems these contacts are made in the German production plant.
However, maybe that has changed.
The MC products are of very good quality.


« Last Edit: July 09, 2021, 08:52:26 am by HighVoltage »
There are 3 kinds of people in this world, those who can count and those who can not.
 

Offline Fraser

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 14483
  • Country: gb
Tooki

Sorry, yes... MultiContact.
If I have helped you please consider a donation : https://gofund.me/c86b0a2c
 

Offline LaserSteve

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1498
  • Country: us
A Lens Wrench / Optical Spanner is designed
to be incredibly adjustable and would make short work of that.
"Programming is more than an important practical art. It is also a gigantic undertaking in the foundations of knowledge"

Adm. Grace Hopper
 

Offline wizard69

  • Super Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 1184
  • Country: us
The proper tool looks like a traditional tubular spanner with 2 pips on the end.

Depending on how many I'm doing, I normally resort to bodging it with a pair of right angle circlip pliers, the tips of long fine nose piers (held at an angle), or in extreme cases, 'drifting' the nuts round with a flat blade screwdriver in one of the slots. If you have properly shaped the hole with flats, rather than just circular then this is normally sufficient (but messy).

I’ve done all of the above over time.  Also the time tested miniature Chanel locks. 

However if you have access to a lathe and possibly a mill, it is also possible to make a more correct tool.   It is a good idea to make friends with somebody that does have such tools. 

One thing you might hear such special wrenches called is “gland wrench”!  The wrenches for working on hydraulic cylinders are very similar in appearance.   Tubular spanner  wrench is another term.  Sometimes these “nuts” can be castellated so castellated spanner is a possibility too.  You can also by special adjustable retaining ring wrenches often sold for work in the optical world. 
 

Offline perieanuo

  • Frequent Contributor
  • **
  • Posts: 914
  • Country: fr
just use circlip pliers if you got in your mechanical kit, the needed couple is not so big. or any pliers
if you want pro solution, buy pro key, let's not overcomplicate a simple matter
 

Offline garytoosweet

  • Contributor
  • Posts: 32
  • Country: ca
Sorry to revive this old thread, but this was the best resource I found on the topic when googling it recently.

As these nuts seem very popular, I am surprised there is not a readily available economical tool for tightening.

I will add that Cal-Test has a relatively new tool, which seems to possibly hold the jack from the front as well (if you don't have a D hole, I suppose).

Cal-Test CT2246B. Priced $48USD at Mouser and Digi-Key at time of writing.

If I have some time in between projects, I may model a panel wrench to fit these nuts and see if it will be economical to produce a small run. Similar to the one attached, but to fit these nuts. Provides good access when wires are attached.

« Last Edit: May 09, 2025, 02:55:54 pm by garytoosweet »
 


Share me

Digg  Facebook  SlashDot  Delicious  Technorati  Twitter  Google  Yahoo
Smf