Author Topic: what an oscilloscope recommended for a woman passionate about electronics?  (Read 144260 times)

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Offline tggzzz

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After playing with the cal out signal, the second waveform to play around with is literally at your fingertips.

Use a *1 probe, and touch the signal lead with your finger. You should see a 50Hz signal, vaguely a sine wave, with lots of other crap on it. See how the waveform varies as you touch and move the probe. To keep it constant so you can play with the scope, attach a longer wire and put that whereever you get a good signal - near or round a mains cable is probably a good place.

Since it is a complex waveform, it is a good starting point for understanding the triggering.


There are many clues about scope settings and waveforms right on the display.  ;)

2 pointers, the channel 0V pointer (left side) and its real value displayed in the channel tab.
The other pointer, the trigger level (right side) and its real value displayed in the Trigger tab.

Clues? That's all much more obvious on a traditional analogue scope's front panel, and much easier for an absolute beginner  >:D

For the avoidance of doubt, I hope that emoji indicates I don't expect a serious response to that. That topic has been rehashed endlessly elsewhere, and wouldn't help the OP :)
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 07:50:11 am by tggzzz »
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Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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2 pointers, the channel 0V pointer (left side) and its real value displayed in the channel tab.
The other pointer, the trigger level (right side) and its real value displayed in the Trigger tab.

The 1 KHz probe compensation square wave is ~3V p-p, that is 0-3V in amplitude clearly shown with a DC channel input coupling waveform as 3 graticules above the 0V position with 1V/div sensitivity settings.
Engage AC input coupling and the same signal remains but now represented as -1.5 to +1.5V.

An important feature all scopes have and important to know how it works by removing the DC component of the signal and when to use it.

well, let's see if I understand  ;)  (be careful that my level on oscilloscopes starts from zero... even less)  :-[



Red Arrow: indicates the channel's zero volt level
green Arrow: indicates the trigger level (for now i have no idea what it is, but i will learn)
in white I have marked the amplitude of the signal, in this case about 3v
(additional personal note: being a square wave, in logic the zero volt signal will be indicated with 0, while the 3 volt signal will be indicated with 1)

Removing DC component, for now, is challenging to understand for me, in time I will get there
thanks  ;)
 
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Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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Using the calibration signal for learning purposes is great.  But one of the most important arts in oscilloscope use is learning to trigger the scope the way you want it.  There are many choices in the triggering menus, all there because they help in some application.  Usually when you are looking the signal is imperfect in various ways (it is often why you are looking).  And those imperfections can have a strong effect on triggering.  So start learning with the calibration signal, but plan to move on soon to real signals.  The sound output of your computer can be programmed to generate many, many signals, which defects of your choice, so it is another great option.  Make up an audio plug to BNC jumper (use two BNC tails on a stereo plug for best results).  It is a simple little project that will find much use over time.

thanks catalina  ;)
just at the beginning I want to play with the calibration output, then of course I will use real signals
I see that there is always a lot of talk about trigger / triggering, translator tells me trigger .. I know that it is very important to understand what it means, I will have to read up on this.

I hadn't thought about the PC's audio output signals, interesting .. but for now I don't have BNC connectors to make the connection, but maybe I have some old cable with a 3.5 jack for audio socket, I could see if I can detect that the output signal.
 ;)

Use a *1 probe, and touch the signal lead with your finger. You should see a 50Hz signal, vaguely a sine wave, with lots of other crap on it. See how the waveform varies as you touch and move the probe. To keep it constant so you can play with the scope, attach a longer wire and put that whereever you get a good signal - near or round a mains cable is probably a good place.
Since it is a complex waveform, it is a good starting point for understanding the triggering.
interesting, do I measure the electric wave of my body? I'll try  ;)
 

Online tautech

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2 pointers, the channel 0V pointer (left side) and its real value displayed in the channel tab.
The other pointer, the trigger level (right side) and its real value displayed in the Trigger tab.

The 1 KHz probe compensation square wave is ~3V p-p, that is 0-3V in amplitude clearly shown with a DC channel input coupling waveform as 3 graticules above the 0V position with 1V/div sensitivity settings.
Engage AC input coupling and the same signal remains but now represented as -1.5 to +1.5V.

An important feature all scopes have and important to know how it works by removing the DC component of the signal and when to use it.

well, let's see if I understand  ;)  (be careful that my level on oscilloscopes starts from zero... even less)  :-[



Red Arrow: indicates the channel's zero volt level
green Arrow: indicates the trigger level (for now i have no idea what it is, but i will learn)
in white I have marked the amplitude of the signal, in this case about 3v
(additional personal note: being a square wave, in logic the zero volt signal will be indicated with 0, while the 3 volt signal will be indicated with 1)

Removing DC component, for now, is challenging to understand for me, in time I will get there
thanks  ;)
:clap:
Next exercise:
See the blue pointer at the top of the display, that's you 0s marker and where the Trigger marker intersects with it is your trigger crossing point.
Simply, the waveform must cross this point for the trigger to activate to produce a stable waveform on the display.

Adjust the Trigger level to above the waveform and watch how you lose triggering.
Now press the Trigger Level knob which automatically sets the trigger level to 50% of the waveforms amplitude and stable triggering returns.
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Offline tggzzz

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(additional personal note: being a square wave, in logic the zero volt signal will be indicated with 0, while the 3 volt signal will be indicated with 1)

This is relatively advanced, but you will come across it sooner or later. There is a very important difference between digital signals and voltages.

In digital systems information is transmitted from the source to the receiver by analogue signals. Usually those analogue signals are voltages, but they can be currents, light levels, frequencies (e.g. frequency shift keying), phase, radio waves, sounds (e.g. morse telegraph), etc. In all cases the reciever is an analogue circuit that interprets the analogue signal and - provided it meets specified criteria - treats it as a digital signal. Example receivers are logic gates, photodiodes+transimpedance amplifiers, radios, human ears. Example criteria include ranges of voltage levels (e.g. >Vih <Vil), timing relationships (e.g. ts, th), frequency ranges/combinations (e.g. DTMF), intervals....

...you get the general idea.

To come to your particular example "zero volt signal will be indicated with 0, while the 3 volt signal will be indicated with 1". Firstly, most logic levels aren't 3V. Some are 0-0.4V/2.4-5V (TTL), others are 0-0.3Vcc/0.7Vcc-Vcc (many CMOS), and so in.

More importantly, some digital 1 signals are represented by low voltages and 0 signals by high voltages. A classic example is chip select (CS) signals which are often "active low" signals shown on datasheet IC pinouts as /CS. Here the chip is selected when the voltage on that pin is low, e.g. <0.3Vcc which for a 3V supply would be 0-1V.

So, once you start to look at real circuits, you will need to understand those concepts.

You can also begin to see how logic analysers are used: they contain receivers, which immediately convert the voltages into digital signals. You specify the input ranges and active high/low, and then forget about them - since all internal filtering, processing, display is done in terms of the digital signals.
There are lies, damned lies, statistics - and ADC/DAC specs.
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Offline tggzzz

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Use a *1 probe, and touch the signal lead with your finger. You should see a 50Hz signal, vaguely a sine wave, with lots of other crap on it. See how the waveform varies as you touch and move the probe. To keep it constant so you can play with the scope, attach a longer wire and put that whereever you get a good signal - near or round a mains cable is probably a good place.
Since it is a complex waveform, it is a good starting point for understanding the triggering.
interesting, do I measure the electric wave of my body? I'll try  ;)

No, it isn't that. Your body is merely acting as an antenna and picking up interference. "Mains hum" in this case.

Your body's electric waves are very low amplitude (uV) differential signals, which need special amplifiers to detect them and reject all the other interfering signals such as mains hum.
There are lies, damned lies, statistics - and ADC/DAC specs.
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Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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This is relatively advanced, but you will come across it sooner or later. There is a very important difference between digital signals and voltages.

In digital systems information is transmitted from the source to the receiver by analogue signals. Usually those analogue signals are voltages, but they can be currents, light levels, frequencies (e.g. frequency shift keying), phase, radio waves, sounds (e.g. morse telegraph), etc. In all cases the reciever is an analogue circuit that interprets the analogue signal and - provided it meets specified criteria - treats it as a digital signal. Example receivers are logic gates, photodiodes+transimpedance amplifiers, radios, human ears. Example criteria include ranges of voltage levels (e.g. >Vih <Vil), timing relationships (e.g. ts, th), frequency ranges/combinations (e.g. DTMF), intervals....

...you get the general idea.

To come to your particular example "zero volt signal will be indicated with 0, while the 3 volt signal will be indicated with 1". Firstly, most logic levels aren't 3V. Some are 0-0.4V/2.4-5V (TTL), others are 0-0.3Vcc/0.7Vcc-Vcc (many CMOS), and so in.

More importantly, some digital 1 signals are represented by low voltages and 0 signals by high voltages. A classic example is chip select (CS) signals which are often "active low" signals shown on datasheet IC pinouts as /CS. Here the chip is selected when the voltage on that pin is low, e.g. <0.3Vcc which for a 3V supply would be 0-1V.

So, once you start to look at real circuits, you will need to understand those concepts.

You can also begin to see how logic analysers are used: they contain receivers, which immediately convert the voltages into digital signals. You specify the input ranges and active high/low, and then forget about them - since all internal filtering, processing, display is done in terms of the digital signals.

thanks for the explanation, this field is very advanced for me, but sooner or later I will learn better.
I have always been more informed about components such as diodes, resistors, capacitors, transistors .. neglecting logical, digital, cmos signals etc.
But it is a field that I like, and over time I will learn something

ok I understand, the signal from my body is as if it were an antenna picking up surrounding signals

 ;)
 

Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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Next exercise:
See the blue pointer at the top of the display, that's you 0s marker and where the Trigger marker intersects with it is your trigger crossing point.
Simply, the waveform must cross this point for the trigger to activate to produce a stable waveform on the display.

Adjust the Trigger level to above the waveform and watch how you lose triggering.
Now press the Trigger Level knob which automatically sets the trigger level to 50% of the waveforms amplitude and stable triggering returns.

first thing: while I had the square wave on the display, I inserted the usb key, made print .. and then no button worked anymore, had to unplug it from the mains. Hopefully it doesn't happen often  ;)

ok I understand, to have a stable wave on the display, the cross between the trigger level pointer and the 0s pointer must take place inside the wave itself ..( within the amplitude of the signal)
In fact, as you suggested, I raised the trigger level beyond 3v (above the wave) and on the display I had this incomprehensible signal:



I then pressed the trigger level 50%, and ok it came back as before (basically put the trigger level in the middle of the wave amplitude)



thanks  ;)

ps: I don't understand why when I insert images, then I invert them (where I thought I had placed the first image inserted, I place an image then inserted)
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 10:43:57 am by CharlotteSwiss »
 

Online tautech

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Good.  :-+

Next exercise
This image, change channel input to AC coupling.



Press channel button and make the change there.

Image problems are a SMF forum problem.  :(
Scope save problems is a bug I think and IIRC Siglent knows about it. They need get on and fix it !  :horse:
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Online EEVblog

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Tell us the three cheapest new scopes you can get in your country, and let the nerds on here fight it out to tell you which one they think is best :->
Basically any new scope on the market will be fine for your needs.
2ch is OK, but 4ch is cheap these days so you might as well get one just in case.
 

Online tautech

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Tell us the three cheapest new scopes you can get in your country, and let the nerds on here fight it out to tell you which one they think is best :->
Basically any new scope on the market will be fine for your needs.
2ch is OK, but 4ch is cheap these days so you might as well get one just in case.
FYI
in the evening I ordered: siglent sds1202x-e.
I hope to learn how to use it properly.
I'll update as soon as it arrives, I'll have to go with the velvet gloves...
 ^-^
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Offline capt bullshot

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Tell us the three cheapest new scopes you can get in your country, and let the nerds on here fight it out to tell you which one they think is best :->
Totally agree ;)
Quote
Basically any new scope on the market will be fine for your needs.
Don't agree. There's scopes on the market that will be fine (in terms of specs and capabilities) but have a lagging / counter-intuitive UI and/or buggy firmware. It's worth (especially for a beginner, as he / she will get a false impression of what a modern DSO can do) to avoid these.

Quote
2ch is OK, but 4ch is cheap these days so you might as well get one just in case.
Agree.
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Offline Labrat101

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:-+ I hope you got the special Pink edition  :-+
I had requested a customized pink version ... however the pink of channel 2 is very nice  ;)


There are also other things as well a scope can see Music  .. Made you some crazy Mushrooms .  :-+
 enjoy your new toy ..  :-+
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Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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Tell us the three cheapest new scopes you can get in your country, and let the nerds on here fight it out to tell you which one they think is best :->
Basically any new scope on the market will be fine for your needs.
2ch is OK, but 4ch is cheap these days so you might as well get one just in case.

thanks administrator  ;)
I have already made the choice (siglent1202). For now, 2 channels are fine. When I have a need for 4 channels, it will mean that I have become better than I am now. Let's hope.
 ^-^
 

Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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------------------------

disco-signal  ;D
 

Offline Labrat101

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disco-signal  ;D

To Get started I always tell people look at a piece of music. connect 1 scope probe to a sound source speaker .
Keep the volume Down as not to overload your scope . press the auto button on scope .play some music classical or what
ever .. and see how wave are made from ever day stuff it will help you learn to recognise what you hear you can see.
Start simple . a Microphone is fun as well .  :-+ ^-^ :popcorn:
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Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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Next exercise
 change channel input to AC coupling.
Press channel button and make the change there.

Scope save problems is a bug I think and IIRC Siglent knows about it. They need get on and fix it !  :horse:

siglent engineers could do better, every bug is not a good figure  ;D

in practice with ac coupling we have the square wave that goes from about -1.5v to about + 1.5v (like a sine wave)
Don't ask me what this ac coupling representation means, I don't know



 ;)
 

Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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To Get started I always tell people look at a piece of music. connect 1 scope probe to a sound source speaker .
Keep the volume Down as not to overload your scope . press the auto button on scope .play some music classical or what
ever .. and see how wave are made from ever day stuff it will help you learn to recognise what you hear you can see.
Start simple . a Microphone is fun as well .  :-+ ^-^ :popcorn:

I will definitely do it, but first I have to learn where to connect the probes without margin of error. Otherwise I do damage.  :palm:
 

Offline Labrat101

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Quote
I will definitely do it, but first I have to learn where to connect the probes without margin of error. Otherwise I do damage.  :palm:

Connect the probe to 1 channel set the probe switch to x10 then press channel 1 button on scope set it also to x10.
then press the AUTO button . if its not square it can be adjusted by using the small screw driver that came with the probes.
it will only need a very small tweet as the probes normally are normally not that far out . when its square as to the grid on the screen .
 Pat yourself on the back and say well done ..
And you can repeat that with the other Probe . so you have 2 probes calibrated

Your doing well there are a lot of setting buttons and knobs ''Don't Panic''   :scared:
You can't brake it  . There is a Default Button that puts every thing back as it was  (Green Button)  ^-^

 :popcorn:
RNS

Don't use the AC setting yet keep to DC setting as this will be good for all what you are doing at the moment  :-+
Quote
where to connect the probes without margin of error. Otherwise I do damage.
No  Damage will accrue only that the signal will not be 100% correct .. I have seen Pro's working in HiTec with probes not calibrated   :palm:
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 12:47:27 pm by Labrat101 »
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Offline rstofer

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There are a lot of Arduino Oscilloscope Training videos and articles so if you happen to have an Arduino, perhaps they can be helpful.

This one doesn't use your exact scope but you can probably work along:
https://www.baldengineer.com/six-oscilloscope-measurements-using-arduino.html

There are others but you can also just work through the examples that come with the Arduino IDE.

Before a scope is useful, you need a signal to see and an Arduino is a really quick way to come up with waveforms.

Probably something like File->Examples->Analog->Fading would be useful.

Or, have the Arduino send text out of the serial port and decode the text on the screen.  This is a bit more advanced...
 

Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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Connect the probe to 1 channel set the probe switch to x10 then press channel 1 button on scope set it also to x10.
then press the AUTO button . if its not square it can be adjusted by using the small screw driver that came with the probes.
it will only need a very small tweet as the probes normally are normally not that far out . when its square as to the grid on the screen .
 Pat yourself on the back and say well done ..
And you can repeat that with the other Probe . so you have 2 probes calibrated

Your doing well there are a lot of setting buttons and knobs ''Don't Panic''   :scared:
You can't brake it  . There is a Default Button that puts every thing back as it was  (Green Button)  ^-^


Don't use the AC setting yet keep to DC setting as this will be good for all what you are doing at the moment  :-+
Quote

I have already done the calibration of the probes, I started badly but then I understood correctly.
Yes, I have used the default key many times, don't panic
 ;)
 

Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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There are a lot of Arduino Oscilloscope Training videos and articles so if you happen to have an Arduino, perhaps they can be helpful.

This one doesn't use your exact scope but you can probably work along:
https://www.baldengineer.com/six-oscilloscope-measurements-using-arduino.html

There are others but you can also just work through the examples that come with the Arduino IDE.

Before a scope is useful, you need a signal to see and an Arduino is a really quick way to come up with waveforms.

Probably something like File->Examples->Analog->Fading would be useful.

Or, have the Arduino send text out of the serial port and decode the text on the screen.  This is a bit more advanced...

I don't have arduino, but maybe in the future ...
I have always been curious about the arduino (or similar), if the time comes that I understand that it might interest me, I will take it; surely I would learn more about that world, which for now is still far from my knowledge
thanks rstofer for this link, very interesting
 ;)

now I have to work hard and put some simple components on the broadboard, power in low voltage and thus have a signal to really try on the oscilloscope  :bullshit:
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 02:15:04 pm by CharlotteSwiss »
 

Offline Labrat101

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I have already done the calibration of the probes, I started badly but then I understood correctly.
Yes, I have used the default key many times, don't panic
 ;)
I rememberer My father sat me in front of an Oscilloscope 57 years ago I was only 10..
It was a very large Technetronic with big clunky switches it must have 50 controls, a round screen  . and tubes .
  I did panic. I did not know how to fly a plane  :-DD 
That came 8 yrs later. Which had almost the same amount of buttons and levers .
Its is a big learning curve but its really not that complicated as it looks .  Taking off is easy ..
its the Landing that one needs spare underwear   :-DD

 Follow slowly though the manual just to learn what the control are called and do. ( it will make no sense at all )
  That's why I said try and connect one probe to a music source via the head phone jack or even the speaker wire from the pc  . the metal tag nearest the plastic end is the ground .. for your probe crocodile clip the end of the plug (tip) connects to
the probe itself  turn the volume down to about a 1/4 . press Auto and your off .. lots of interesting stuff will appear .
 once you have this under control . square wave, saw,sine will make a little more sense .
 ALL wave forms come from a sine wave  ^-^

 :popcorn:
RNS

I never got normal toys like other kids of my age I got box's of electronic stuff  I built my first short wave tube receiver
when I was 8.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 02:24:27 pm by Labrat101 »
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Offline CharlotteSwissTopic starter

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Quote
I have already done the calibration of the probes, I started badly but then I understood correctly.
Yes, I have used the default key many times, don't panic
 ;)
I rememberer My father sat me in front of an Oscilloscope 57 years ago I was only 10..
It was a very large Technetronic with big clunky switches it must have 50 controls, a round screen  . and tubes .
  I did panic. I did not know how to fly a plane  :-DD 
That came 8 yrs later. Which had almost the same amount of buttons and levers .
Its is a big learning curve but its really not that complicated as it looks .  Taking off is easy ..
its the Landing that one needs spare underwear   :-DD

 Follow slowly though the manual just to learn what the control are called and do. ( it will make no sense at all )
  That's why I said try and connect one probe to a music source via the head phone jack or even the speaker wire from the pc  . the metal tag nearest the plastic end is the ground .. for your probe crocodile clip the end of the plug (tip) connects to
the probe itself  turn the volume down to about a 1/4 . press Auto and your off .. lots of interesting stuff will appear .
 once you have this under control . square wave, saw,sine will make a little more sense .
 ALL wave forms come from a sine wave  ^-^

 :popcorn:
RNS

labrat, I would do it willingly but I have many doubts:
-the pc speaker headphones output sockets are female, how can i connect the clip and probe tip? should I open the case?
-the connections better to do them with the oscilloscope off?
-I press auto ok, but what do you mean by off?

you must understand that I have not yet measured anything with the oscilloscope (only the calibration output), for me it is a mysterious object.

 :popcorn: :popcorn:
 ;)

edit: maybe you meant to attach a jack cable to the audio output, and that on the other side also has the male jack? I don't know if I have it, I have to look...

I have this Male-Male pc audio cable, ok for the sound test?

« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 02:40:30 pm by CharlotteSwiss »
 

Offline Labrat101

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You only need to connect to one plug (mono) . your arrows are right
you can also take one of the other plugs red or the white so you will hear 1 channel from the pc
and see the other on the scope.
when you have mastered one channel . do the same on the other channel with the other scope probe and see
stereo .
The song jpg did not load .
« Last Edit: June 29, 2020, 03:20:20 pm by Labrat101 »
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