I have done toner transfer for over a decade. It's only once every few months, but sometimes I do a lot of boards at a time.
Here are the two important bits you might not find on a google search.
1. paper. The Pulsar paper they now sell at Mouser and Sparkfun and all sorts of places is amaze-balls. Yes, you can use magazine paper. I've done it. Yes, you can use laser printer label backing. Yes, even regular paper works. But I'd suggest you at least buy 1 pack of this Pulsar for reference. Because it works as good or better than any of them, and it is by far the most likely to give you good results if your technique is not great. It releases easy, leaves no fuzz around the edges. BTW, magazine paper is pretty good, but it distorts a little, which is a problem only on large double-sided boards. I think it shrinks or wrinkles when exposed to high heat.
2. Pre-etch. This is incredibly important. After cleaning the boards off with soap and steel wool, you still benefit (GREATLY) from dunking your blank board into your etchant for about 10 seconds. Rinse it in a bucket of water. Then let it dry (I recommend a heat gun to speed it up). Very important: Do NOT WIPE THE BOARD. There will be a layer of precipitate that is loosely adhered to the surface of the board, all over, and it is the reason why you want to do this. If you wipe the board down with a damp paper towel, you will remove all this dust. The dust gives the surface nooks and crannies for the toner to stick and to seep in, rather than flattening out and/or falling off. If I don't do a pre-etch, my traces can come out anywhere from normal to about 2.5x as fat as they're supposed to (this means bridging between pads/traces and general wavi/uneven-ness). And they are more prone to falling off. With a good preetch, you really can't mess up.
As far as the printer, I know firsthand that Brother printers which take the TN350 cartridge will not work. Most any laser printer other than those will more than likely work. Including other Brother printers.
If you want to make it easy on yourself, you can buy GBC Creative laminator for maybe $30. And a 1200W heat gun for another 20-30. What I do is take the case off the laminator and shoot the board with a heat gun while it's going through. The amount of heat depends on the size of the board. I have run a lot of boards, and my first laminator is still trucking. Stored outside, near a corrosive tank, ten years. The only other mod besides removing the plastic case and screwing it to a plank of wood for a base was to egg out the holes for the roller, so that a full thickness 0.064 board will fit through. Just be careful. The metal roller is juiced up, so don't feed a copper board in barefoot or with wet hands. I've gotten a tingle, before.
Thickness of the copper: this is usually described in "oz". Stick with 1 oz, or even 1/2 oz pour, for the most part. These will etch much more accurately than 2oz. If you need 2 oz, just take that into consideration when you decide what pitch you can handle.
If you just want to make a tiny board that probably requires some bodging, just to say you did it, and you dont' want to spend any time or money to do it right, watch Ben Heck's toner transfer video.