Soldering iron recomendations?

[McFLUFFELS]

Hello Guy's,
First a little background on my situation. Christmas is just around the corner and I am looking for a decent soldering solution around the $100 mark.
I am looking to do occasional electronics projects some SMD but mainly though-hole stuff the iron is likely to not see a great deal of use.
I currently own a 50/100W soldering iron that I bought from bunnings it only has a 6mm chisel tip so not ideal for anything really.
So I have narrowed it down to two options;
1: A ebay 2 in 1 soldering station for $105AU. From what I understand ebay soldering stations have gotten quite decent in the last few years (from guys on youtube opening them up and inspecting them) and this one offers a hot air gun with four nozzles, 11 soldering tips, and an assortment of tweezers.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2in1-Soldering-Iron-Solder-Rework-Station-Hot-Air-Gun-Digital-SMD-Desoldering/252948407124?hash=item3ae4e66354:g:4PQAAOSwI4lZzFbm

2: A genuine Goot 85W soldering iron. It has only one tip included. is locked at 320° but thermal recovery is supposed to be very good, and has a silicone lead. I would have to buy a set of tweezers  so the price works to be about the same at $100.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/goot-240v-85w-240v-soldering-iron/p/TS1430


Which would you recommend and why?
Thanks in advance.

[nanofrog]

Neither IMHO. Genuine Goot is good stuff, but I don't care for fixed temp irons.

Get a Hakko FX-888D instead.

Reasoning:

• It's a proper temp controlled station.
• It's well made.
• Excellent selection of tips.
• Tips are of high quality that will last you for years with basic care (just keep it tinned).
• Uses a silicone lead as well.

Yes, it costs a bit more but you won't have to replace it any time soon.

In regard to the combination stations such as that in your first link, I'd avoid these. You don't want to use one tool to fix the other in this case as you don't want the broken tool powered during repair.

[nicalitz]

I've seen mixed opinions on this, but I'd suggest the TS100. Especially if its not going to see a great deal of use. They go for $50 on Banggood. Some people have had problems, but I've generally been quite happy. Very impressive temperature control for the price. Light and easy to work with as well. Tips are around $11 each, so just pick those you want.

[Gyro]

I'm using my TS100 in preference to my Weller TCP most of the time now. The nearly instant heat up is so convenient and I'm finding that even the finest smd tip works surprisingly well through hole. NOTE that you need a DC power supply to go with it - the closer to 24V the better.

P.S. It's best if you source a silicone lead for it rather than the stiff one that comes out of a standard laptop brick too. Use the Ralim firmware too, it makes use of the CPU H/W features to improve thermal response (the original does everything in code).

[KL27x]

I am looking to do occasional electronics projects some SMD but mainly though-hole stuff the iron is likely to not see a great deal of use.

A lot of stations could fit the bill. It depends on how cheap you are and what you are using now. You can upgrade, incrementally, and you will have a few more Xmas's to look forward to. But if you live in the US, the Hakko 888 is too cheap to ignore. Elsewhere, it might cost a little more. But I would probably take it over an Ersa, even in Europe where Ersa Nano/Pico becomes similar in cost, esp if I only soldered occasionally. Search google or eBay for "broken" or "repair" + Hakko 888, and you will come up empty. (Ersa has a proprietary display that can die. Also have seen bad triacs and other issues.) Hakko also has some very great SMD tips that Ersa doesn't make.

The only problem is if you buy an 888, you will need a new Xmas present. You'll be done shopping for soldering irons for the next 30 years. It has the quality where it counts. The transformer, the housing, the handpiece, and the stand. It has a great tip selection with high quality, long service life, and low cost. The electronics are very basic and pretty much bombproof. It will get the job done, and it will do it comfortably and efficiently. The tips you use will still likely be in production/available by the time you're dead, and the tips are easy to source and identify.

TS-100 has good reputation on the forum, but for occasional use, at home, as a primary iron, it is a bit of a stretch. You're relying on a bitty DC jack and an iron tip/heater that connect by spring contacts. For a tool whose sole purpose is to make electrical connections, you are relying on a bunch of electromechanical connections and LCD that can fail for a variety of reasons, let alone the switchmode supply which has caps that will eventually dry out. And the only way you can repair this thing and/or splice a connector on a new psu is with another soldering iron. Not to mention where's the stand?

[danny_d]

You could just get one of the many T12 compatible soldering stations.
Such as Bakon BK950D/KSGER T12/DSK T12-D
The T12 stations generally perform very well, and if you want a long, flexible cord for the iron, you could just order this:
https://www.banggood.com/2M-Five-Core-Silicone-Wire-T12-for-HAKKO-936-937-907-Soldering-Station-Handle-Line-p-1122645.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
BG also have T12 tips that are reasonably priced as well.

[KL27x]

I have a 19.5v Bakon and a 24.5V Suhan. The Suhan warms up faster, close to 10 seconds. The Bakon get to 250C in the same time as my 888, in about 17 seconds.

That said, I use the Bakon. because it takes up less room on my bench. Warm up time of even 1 second would mean pretty much nothing to me (unless it could cool down in 1 second, too; now that would be great for a portable iron). I'm not a big fan of T12/15 tip/heater, due to logistics. I don't want to dig around to find the right tip out of a pencil case or cup or a tall silicone holder. I primarily just leave a knife tip in it, and I set it on my bench and plug it in for knife tip stuff, only; or I'll set it up with a different tip where I need to change between two tips, frequently, for a specific repetitive task.

With most of the T12 clone stations, you need to buy a stand, separately. Or make your own.

[nanofrog]

With most of the T12 clone stations, you need to buy a stand, separately. Or make your own.

I'd recommend getting a Hakko 633-01 for those that decide to go this route (comes with a 599B brass wool tip cleaner).

[bobdabiulder]

Honestly, the FX-888d is the best soldering station ever.  I went through five before I got to it.  It’s $100, and if you’re smart, you’ll get a bundle from Amazon which comes with at least a good wire cutter (Bundle Includes Soldering Station and CHP170 cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWUFVY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IX0lAbY2EWNXG).

If you get the TS100, make sure you can power it.  A geniune laptop charger with a barreljack output is ideal.  Make sure it’s about 19v, and preferably OEM.  I’m sure it’s a wonderful iron, but the 888d is so well documented, and the $5-10 tips will last you a while.  I have it, and I use it as much as you say you will.

[tombi]

My useless (Jaycar) Duratech TS-1390 just died. Tiny TO-92 size 78L05 is as hot as the soldering iron tip. Grr

I too am wondering about getting a FX888D - where is a good place to get one in Australia? Element14 want $200 plus GST, Mektronics have it for $160 ex GST, Oritech $165 ex GST.

What I really want is a JBC but that's not going to happen.

Other idea was to get a T245 JBC handpiece and try and build one using this universal controller but I suspect that won't be all that much cheaper.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UniSolder-5-2-DIY-PCB-Universal-soldering-station-for-Hakko-JBC-Stock-EU-Spain/152822628157?hash=item2394f03f3d:g:umEAAOSwi7RZHfti

Tom

[bobdabiulder]

Tom, Amazon can help.  Or look on Hakko’s distributor list.

[Cliff Matthews]

I am looking to do occasional electronics projects some SMD but mainly though-hole stuff the iron is likely to not see a great deal of use.

TS-100 has good reputation on the forum, but for occasional use, at home, as a primary iron, it is a bit of a stretch. You're relying on a bitty DC jack and an iron tip/heater that connect by spring contacts. For a tool whose sole purpose is to make electrical connections, you are relying on a bunch of electromechanical connections and LCD that can fail for a variety of reasons, let alone the switchmode supply which has caps that will eventually dry out. And the only way you can repair this thing and/or splice a connector on a new psu is with another soldering iron. Not to mention where's the stand?

From what I saw in the Marco Reps presentation, the TS-100 has a high quality barrel jack and has redundant spring contacts (also shown in that video) which are certainly enough for the 3 amps it would take to get the full 65-watts. As far as I can tell, C9 is the only el-cap (22uF/25v) that could dry-out and from what he and others say, everything is cool in the handle. I don't know about any earlier models, but that display seems to be an OLED. Here's a recent video from a quad-copter guy who knows his stuff and seems to do a lot of high-heat soldering:

[Cliff Matthews]

Things for this little OSS beast are moving along.. There's no need for USB connection if you want to change menu setting's:
https://github.com/Ralim/ts100#ts100 (last commit was 8-days ago)

Another older fork discusses control loop here:
https://github.com/mkninc/ts100_ng#ts100_ng (git build currently failing, maybe it's worth a read?)

*edit: If anyone is burning for fun, the Tetris fork will increase tip temperature 10C each time you loose.. (ouch..!) 
https://hackaday.com/2017/07/07/tetris-on-a-soldering-iron/

[paulca]

Given a 24V supply, what kind of current does the TS100 need?

If it's 85Watt that would suggest a 24V 4A supply.  Does that sound right?

[Cliff Matthews]

I was just going by the 65w Marco Reps claimed. IMHO, I wouldn't run it beyond 22v since C9 is rated at 25v
Too close for comfort and Murphy's law where it'll fail when you need it most..

[Gyro]

In terms of current capacity, then yes, I would trust those contacts at 3A. They are a decent thickness and with good spring pressure. The tip is also held securely in a nice close tolerance metal housing by a grub screw (not visible, the screw shown in the photo is the case lid screw), unlike the push-in T12 type elements. I would say they've got the design about spot-on in this area.

The barrel connector sleeve is very firmly soldered to the PCB, I'd have no concerns about the center pin joint failing. For 3A you want to use it with a split center fork (high current laptop charger type).

With respect to the 25V capacitor, I'm sure you're right that it's rated a bit too close. I run mine at 24V.

[paulca]

So excuse my ignorance, but is this iron current limited?  Should I not be concerned if I plug in a jelly bean 12V 1A wall wart that it pulls more than 1A and overheats the PSU?

I like the look of it and I'm in need of a replacement for my Weller SP 25L as it's not temp controller. 

Just trying to work out a sensible power supply for the TS100 without spending too much.

[Cliff Matthews]

So excuse my ignorance, but is this iron current limited?  Should I not be concerned if I plug in a jelly bean 12V 1A wall wart that it pulls more than 1A and overheats the PSU?

I like the look of it and I'm in need of a replacement for my Weller SP 25L as it's not temp controller. 

Just trying to work out a sensible power supply for the TS100 without spending too much.

No current limiting. *edit Current from barrel connector passes through a dual MosFET directly to the element and the other side is grounded.* It's risky to use your 12v 1a wall wart, since voltage may drop so low that it could cook the MosFET running in the linear region. Your best bet for the money would be an old laptop 19V 3A power adapter (then it's certified  and you don't even have to solder-on a barrel connector).

[Gyro]

So excuse my ignorance, but is this iron current limited?  Should I not be concerned if I plug in a jelly bean 12V 1A wall wart that it pulls more than 1A and overheats the PSU?

I like the look of it and I'm in need of a replacement for my Weller SP 25L as it's not temp controller. 

Just trying to work out a sensible power supply for the TS100 without spending too much.

At 12V it would be pulling around 1.4A and providing only about 17W output, you need to go higher for decent power output.... https://imgmgr.banggood.com/images/upload/2015/11/TS100/TS100%20Soldering%20Iron%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf (see section 3)

 Your cheapest option would be to go for an ebay laptop charger. There are many in the 19-22V range at 3.5-4A available cheaply. Go for a genuine original manufacturer second hand one (eg, Lenovo, Hp, Dell) rather than a new no-name one of unknown quality. Also with a 3-pin mains input connector to ensure that the output barrel is grounded.

[Cliff Matthews]

At 1.4A that 1A your wall-wart may produce well below optimum *Vgs* for the dual MosFET. In this case, if under-voltage makes Rds > 0.5 ohms, then the SOIC-8 package will have to release magic smoke dealing with > 1.5W dissipation (since current must pass through both FET's *at 1 ohm*).

I'm not saying this is certain in your case, but buyers of the TS-100 should be aware there may be a range of voltages one should not use, if they want the TS-100 to "live long and prosper".

[paulca]

Sorted. 
Genuine Toshiba 19V 6.5A laptop brick. 
TS100.
Sealed lidded sponge w/ stand.
Copper 'wool' ball.
Silverline desoldering braid.
Flux Pen.

Should bring my soldering stuff up to scratch.

[stj]

forget the sponge.
nice brick btw, not often you see those types of current anymore - all the ones i'v seen recently are half that!

[paulca]

forget the sponge.
nice brick btw, not often you see those types of current anymore - all the ones i'v seen recently are half that!

Yea, it's S/H.  Computer power requirements changed quite a lot a number of years back.  I had to get a 650W power supply for my PC.  I then upgraded it to nearly quadruple the spec about 2 years ago and was surprised to find I didn't need to uprate the power supply.  It's all the energy efficiency stuff.

[Gyro]

Good choice.

Sorted. 
...
Should bring my soldering stuff up to scratch.

Almost... Unless you want the luxury option. I used these:

 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-Power-Plug-Socket-Male-Female-Barrel-Connector-Multiple-Sizes-Available/292033926253?hash=item43fe94146d:m:mUesRQQNWhwM4BtX-0CbALg  (5.5mmx2.5mm Plug - Fork)

and:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Core-Silicone-Rubber-Cable-2x0-4mm-Conductors-6amp-DC-Wiring-Cord/152000411964?hash=item2363ee393c:g:eBcAAOSwll1W1cRU (1m is fine)

(no affiliations) to make a nice flexible burn-proof cord, it makes a massive difference to handling. Cut the existing brick output lead shorter and solder/heatshrink on, use a compatible socket, your choice. Make sure you keep the polarity correct (center +ve).


P.S. I second Cliff Matthews suggestion about the Ralim firmware, much better than stock (it makes use of processor on-chip hardware features in the temperature control loop rather than just software).

[paulca]

Good catch.  Thanks.  I have loads of 2.1mm jacks, I have no 2.5s.  I got the silicone cord too.  I've been putting up with a clunky inflexible one fitted to the Weller that still holds it's packing folds 8 years later, time for a flexible one.