Older home boiler system

[tombarton23]

Hi, 40 yrs ago I bought a 1929 Sears house and put in a new boiler with a heating coil installed. Added a big red flow control fixture also. It made lots of noise, seemed to restrict flow and leaked just a little. So I took it out. The kitchen heated up a bit in summer as always when the family would call for hot water though. No biggie but just a little heat in the kitchen on a hot day is a pain. Now 40 yrs later, after paying movers 500 bucks to remove that rusted but still working boiler and being much older myself, I installed a new oil fired boiler. Took me twice as long to do the install and me fingers hurt like the dickens. But it’s running nice. So, But the question. I did not add a big red flow control valve. I’m considering adding  a branch 10 ft of copper 3/4 ,  off a T with gate valves to have the option in summer to reroute the flow of heated water to the kitchen in a short 10 ft loop back to the furnace return run. Question. Without adding a noisy big red flow valve and instead adding  a short return run employing a few valves and Ts, will this work? Essentially  I’ll be using a shut off valve to shorten my standard home loop by over 90% and thus eliminate that little bit of heating in the kitchen, in the summer. When winter comes I’ll just open the valve and shut off the valve of flow back to the furnace return line. Just a standard old 2500 Sq ft home built in 1929. Thx, Tom

[wasedadoc]

What is the relevance to an electronics forum?

[tombarton23]

Seems im reading a bunch of hydronic talk going on here. If I have I broken a rule my apologies.

[MarkF]

Forget it.  I don't see any harm in asking your question.
You'd probably get better answers on a heating & A/C forum.
___________________________________________________________
To your question.

If I understand correctly, you have one large heating loop and you want to add a bypass of the kitchen heat.
Which will shorten the loop by T-ing around the kitchen with shutoff values.

In contrast to having two loops fed by a manifold with a ball-valve on each zone. 
One for the kitchen and one for the rest of the house.  Would be like adding baffles in hot-air duct work.

In the first it's all or nothing for heating the kitchen.  In the second you could throttle each zone.
You see installations with two large manifolds (one feed and one return) having a dozen zones for the house.

I'm not in the business.  So, no advise.  Just trying to understand what you're asking.

[tombarton23]

I appreciate your response but I’ll move on to a more appropiate site for such a question. Thx

[jpanhalt]

General technical chat might have been more appropriate, but this entire forum has a  lot of non-technical, non-electronic stuff.  I did not find your question objectionable.

Hydronic systems have zones.  Mine has about six to allow doing what you suggest.  I see no problem with it for hydronic systems.  I don't know whether there might be other concerns with the system you have.